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Ive replaced the glow plug controller probably 3 times now and relays more than that. The other day my relay was stuck closed and killed my batteries and most likely my ZD9's.
I want to make the switch to the manual glow plug system. Although wanting to make sure I get it right.
Thus far I have another Ford Glow plug relay (30 amps)
I have a 50 amp momentary push button... IS THIS TOO HIGH???
A 30 amp circuit breaker...???
10 gauge wire to put from the relay to the push button.
Let me know your thoughts and if I should change anything? Wanted to get a 30 amp momentary button but the auto parts only had 25amp and 50amp, the dude there said the 50 wouldn't put more than 30amps through?
a 30 Amp Glow Plug Relay is Marginal at best and I wouldn't expect it to last very long.
you don't need a 50 Amp push button switch to energize the Glow plug Relay .. a 10 Amp spring loaded toggle is more than enough to do the job and 16-14 gauge control wire is plenty big enough
your control switch will not pull more current than the Pull in current of the GP Relay itself as the relay will only draw about 8 watts in the coil and that equates to about 0.666 Amps at 12 Volts
a 30 Amp Glow Plug Relay is Marginal at best and I wouldn't expect it to last very long.
you don't need a 50 Amp push button switch to energize the Glow plug Relay .. a 10 Amp spring loaded toggle is more than enough to do the job and 16-14 gauge control wire is plenty big enough
your control switch will not pull more current than the Pull in current of the GP Relay itself as the relay will only draw about 8 watts in the coil and that equates to about 0.666 Amps at 12 Volts
Okay cool thanks for that info, definitely want to make it last so I appreciate the suggestions.
so if I were to get the 100 amp one would I need different circuit breaker, push button, wire.
and also what would you recommend for the other one that you attached a link for? I have seen that one posted all over just kind of in a rush to get it installed.. wasn’t sure if I’d be able to order it fast enough.
I think Amazon and Fleabay both carry the White Rodgers Relays....
the 200 or 100 Amp ratings are for the actual contact rating of the Relay itself and has nothing to do with the Coil that Energizes the Relay
In the Image below we will call M the Glow Plugs each GP draws a specified Wattage ... let's just say each one draws 100 Watts Times 8 plugs so you have 800 watts total current draw Divide that by 12 Volts that Equals approx 67 Amps IF your battery voltage drops to 10 volts then you are pulling 80 Amps total.
Normally Fuse Links are used on the High current side of the Glow Plugs so the fuse you see on the top right should be around 100 Amp.
ok now for the coil in the Relay you see a switch (this can be push button) it would never be Normal for it to ever pull more than 2 or 3 amps so the Fuse under the switch can be a 5 Amp fuse and you would be fine.. and those wires for the low current side of the relay can be 16-14 AWG with no problem.
This is just a simple Image to demonstrate how a relay works.
This Image is generally how Most Folks hook up a Manual Controlled Relay
I will definitely get the white dodger relay, makes a lot of sense and I've had a lot of them crap out on me.
Just a little bit confused about the drawing and the part that has the positive from the battery to the fuse and then to the switch then to the relay. From my understanding I was supposed to hook up the switch with a fuse in line to the prong that had the white wire connected to it, which would be one of the small prongs??
I will definitely get the white dodger relay, makes a lot of sense and I've had a lot of them crap out on me.
Just a little bit confused about the drawing and the part that has the positive from the battery to the fuse and then to the switch then to the relay. From my understanding I was supposed to hook up the switch with a fuse in line to the prong that had the white wire connected to it, which would be one of the small prongs??
the First drawing was just for example to explain how the relay works.... use the 2nd Image to wire the control switch one side of the switch goes to Ground the other side of the switch goes to either one of the small terminals on the relay the other small terminal on the relay goes to the Ignition switch so it will already be fused for you... no need to add an extra fuse unless you just want too...
wasn't trying to CornFuse but I can see how it could... in Theory either way will work but it is the better part of Valor to run the control switch to a Ground.
You may have to Zoom that 2nd image to be able to read the Text.
I use a spring loaded momentary Toggle switch with a Guard on it so it cannot be accidentally operated. Push button is OK but I have had them stick in the past so be aware of that.
Interesting reading through this thread. There are probably 1000 threads on the manual push button GP set up.
I was doing a Google search on the manual set up for the 7.3, and came across this site with a picture of the
comparison between the stock GP relay and the White Rogers. https://www.dieselorings.com/16-009-...lug-relay.html
yes sir many posts on it here and many other sites
also I don't mount my Glow Plug Relay on the back of the engine ..... it's inconvenient and too hot IMHO
BUT you must use an original Harness or use Resistance wire IF you build a new Harness, you can use Standard type wire from the Relay to the GP Harness 6-8 AWG at minimum.
okay So if my harness doesn’t reach I would have to make a new one..
got any good leads on bullet connectors for the plugs?
resistance wire 6-8 gauge as well?
First off I don't recommend making your own harness as Nichrome wire is hard to work with it needs to be crimped and spot welded as a general rule and most folks cannot do that BUT you can put Crimps on regular copper wire and Bolt the connections together...
thanks, I am just hoping the wire from old harness is long enough!
1990 F350 7.3 IDI
White rodgers relay came in today, got a 15 amp momentary switch, a 5 amp inline fuse wire, 16 gauge wire roll.... The relay I thought was supposed to be the right size to bolt on top of the glow plug controller but it seems to be just a bit too wide.. The controller is out at the moment as I wanted to do a good job tying off all the wires, do I also need to tape up the ground wire from the glow plug controller? Seems I won't be needing it anymore....
once you disconnect the power leads to the OLD Controller block it won't short out internally so the Ground could still be connected ... BUT as you say you have it out so the choice is yours... tape up the wires or just put a piece of heat shrink over them .... I just removed mine altogether.
anyway your original GP wires should be plenty long enough
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