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thanks, I am just hoping the wire from old harness is long enough!
1990 F350 7.3 IDI
White rodgers relay came in today, got a 15 amp momentary switch, a 5 amp inline fuse wire, 16 gauge wire roll.... The relay I thought was supposed to be the right size to bolt on top of the glow plug controller but it seems to be just a bit too wide.. The controller is out at the moment as I wanted to do a good job tying off all the wires, do I also need to tape up the ground wire from the glow plug controller? Seems I won't be needing it anymore....
How are you certain that the glowplug relay is culprit to your battery draining? Have you used a multi meter or test light to see if the relay is functioning properly when you turn the key on/off?
How are you certain that the glowplug relay is culprit to your battery draining? Have you used a multi meter or test light to see if the relay is functioning properly when you turn the key on/off?
Sure have, used a multimeter with key off and my glow plug wiring harness/relay post had battery voltage.
once you disconnect the power leads to the OLD Controller block it won't short out internally so the Ground could still be connected ... BUT as you say you have it out so the choice is yours... tape up the wires or just put a piece of heat shrink over them .... I just removed mine altogether.
anyway your original GP wires should be plenty long enough
Thanks! excited to hook it all up. Might just keep the controller out and make some holes in the plate that the controller was mounted on!
I am going to put a short length wire from the positive post to the signal post (where the ignition wire used to be) . do you have any recommendations for wire size on that guy since it will be a hot wire?
So IF I understand correct, you plan to not connect to the Ignition switch as shown but are just going to connect a short wire from the Large terminal on the Relay to the coil Terminal on the relay.... This will work and you still only need 16AWG and it will be fine...BUT then the Relay Coil will be hot all the time and can energize the Glow plugs with the Key OFF ....
It's real easy to just power off the ignition switch use the Red-LT Green wire.
once you disconnect the power leads to the OLD Controller block it won't short out internally so the Ground could still be connected ... BUT as you say you have it out so the choice is yours... tape up the wires or just put a piece of heat shrink over them .... I just removed mine altogether.
anyway your original GP wires should be plenty long enough
its been a long day! all my glow plugs were toast except one since the old relay was stuck closed......
installed the switch, the new relay..... put the positive battery terminals on, got battery voltage at ALL the prongs.............LUCKILY I didn't have the wiring harness connected to the brand new glow plugs..
SO I guess that means something is wrong in my wiring somewhere on the truck, and the old relay I took out may not have even been the problem....
Would that mean I have a shorted out ground somewhere?
its been a long day! all my glow plugs were toast except one since the old relay was stuck closed......
installed the switch, the new relay..... put the positive battery terminals on, got battery voltage at ALL the prongs.............LUCKILY I didn't have the wiring harness connected to the brand new glow plugs..
SO I guess that means something is wrong in my wiring somewhere on the truck, and the old relay I took out may not have even been the problem....
Would that mean I have a shorted out ground somewhere?
IF the Relay is not energized and you have Power to the Glow Plugs then it is wired wrong.
so i went and took a second look. attached the batteries again and got battery voltage at the big lug hot wire, small lug that has a wire from the hot(originally ignition) which is good and what i want. then at the small lug connected to the momentary switch i get battery voltage, at the other big lug which goes to glow plugs now seeing 0, which is good, although I guess i am surprised to see battery voltage at the small lug that has the switch wired to it... ????
held down the switch and the small lug from switch went from battery voltage to 0 and then the big lug with glow plug wire went from 0 to battery voltage, then reveresed when let go of switch...
yes can take photos tomorrow if this doesn't seem right still? kinda seems correct just surprised that 3 of the 4 lugs have battery voltage..
so i went and took a second look. attached the batteries again and got battery voltage at the big lug hot wire, small lug that has a wire from the hot(originally ignition) which is good and what i want. then at the small lug connected to the momentary switch i get battery voltage, at the other big lug which goes to glow plugs now seeing 0, which is good, although I guess i am surprised to see battery voltage at the small lug that has the switch wired to it... ????
held down the switch and the small lug from switch went from battery voltage to 0 and then the big lug with glow plug wire went from 0 to battery voltage, then reveresed when let go of switch...
yes can take photos tomorrow if this doesn't seem right still? kinda seems correct just surprised that 3 of the 4 lugs have battery voltage..
Like I said in an earlier Post IF you connect the battery direct to the small terminal the Coil is HOT all the time... and that is what your jumper wire does BUT the Glow Plugs should not be HOT until you Ground the other side of the HOT Coil....IF that makes sense
a ha! yes this makes sense thank you and my apologies for not reading that properly. Okay so its fine then for the switch wire to be hot. wonder if i should have put a fuse inline...?
I have the motorcraft plugs right now which i believe are 6 volts , do you have a recommendation how long to toggle them for?
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