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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Belt Help!

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Old Nov 21, 2019 | 02:29 PM
  #1  
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Angry Belt Help!


I need some help, im pretty stuck on how to get my belt on. Ive never owned a diesel before, much less work on one. im having a heck of a time trying to get this belt up on the tensioner. If anyone could offer some advice or show me where i went all wrong it would be greatly appreciated.

Picture is of another 6.0:
Green indicates what part I already have on
Red indicates whats free
Purple indicates what im having trouble with


Thank you.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2019 | 03:24 PM
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Some just take off the tensioner, then feed the belt and put the tensioner back on.

I feed from the passenger head behind the fan and over the crankshaft pulley, ridges to the crankshaft pulley. I loop the belt as you show with purple, the left side of purple gets pushed through the gap between the tensioner and crankshaft pulley, twisted so it can go behind the tensioner pulley and then moved up on the left side of the pulley. The right side of purple then tends to fall in place. After that, everything should be easy.

Gas motors are the same.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2019 | 05:56 PM
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It IS a very difficult belt, especially with the stator on. One of the best tech's I know takes between 15 and 30 minutes to put one on and he can do a cab off head/oil cooler job in 8 hours, which includes driving the truck in and out of the bay. Do you have the tensioner locked into the "no tension" position? It has a little kickstand on the factory tensioner. If not then you might need some assistance.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2019 | 06:38 PM
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I like to do the whole belt except the alternator, then pull the tensioner with a breaker bar while getting the belt on the alt.

Routing on the lower stuff can be a lot easier with 2 people, one high and one low.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2019 | 06:59 PM
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Agreed. Alternator goes last. Never tried to put one on completely without the fan/stator off, but I've tried to take one off and never did figure out how. Just to be sure, do you understand what Tim said about the "kickstand." Once you have the belt on everything except the alternator, get a 1/2" breaker bar and short extension and locate the 1/2" square hole in the tensioner. Insert and pull back on the breaker bar to allow you to flip down the little kickstand on the bottom of the tensioner. From there, with tension off, the belt easily goes over the alternator. With that in place, grab the belt from the passenger side under the alternator and pull towards you real hard. That will pull the tensioner again (or use the breaker bar again), and the kickstand will pop back up by itself. let go and your belt is good.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2019 | 06:58 AM
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I just pulled my 6.0 yesterday and took a photo of the belt route before I removed it.


 
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Old Nov 22, 2019 | 07:06 AM
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I always take the tensioner off. It is easy to remove and easy to re-install.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2019 | 07:23 AM
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I still can't imagine you have to pull that motor apart again ...... and I think I'm pissed every time I work on my motor......
 
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Old Nov 22, 2019 | 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
I still can't imagine you have to pull that motor apart again ...... and I think I'm pissed every time I work on my motor......
I pulled it and had it stripped down to the block in 12 hours, I’m getting fast...haha
I have some interesting photos of the decks after 5200 miles. I might start a new thread.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2019 | 07:46 AM
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dang, I missed this. Why did you have to pull your motor again? Crazy, and I feel bad with the little things that go wrong with my trucks.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2019 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by IHateCommieCars
dang, I missed this. Why did you have to pull your motor again? Crazy, and I feel bad with the little things that go wrong with my trucks.
I had my engine out 6 months ago to lap the block and install “new” UCF o-ringed heads because I had been nursing compromised head gaskets for a long time. Did the first oil change since the work at 5200 miles and noticed diesel in my degas bottle which can mean one of two things. Cracked head inside injector bore or compromised injector cup. Sending the heads back to UCF today for inspection and replacement.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2019 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by SmackDaddy
I pulled it and had it stripped down to the block in 12 hours, I’m getting fast...haha
I have some interesting photos of the decks after 5200 miles. I might start a new thread.
These aren't bad as long as your not trying to take a video of everything and don't walk away from the project.....often.

Look forward to the images.

After I did the cam piston to valve clearance checks with FelPro HGs moderately tightened down, you can see the traces in the right light and camera settings. They are different from the Ford gasket depressions.






And the OP is trying to figure out what the hell this has to do with putting on a drive belt .....

I'll delete this tonight.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2019 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
These aren't bad as long as your not trying to take a video of everything and don't walk away from the project.....often.

Look forward to the images.

After I did the cam piston to valve clearance checks with FelPro HGs moderately tightened down, you can see the traces in the right light and camera settings. They are different from the Ford gasket depressions.






And the OP is trying to figure out what the hell this has to do with putting on a drive belt .....

I'll delete this tonight.
They look like they cover more around the perimeter of the cylinder for sure! I may see if UCF will send me some Fel-Pro head gaskets.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2019 | 11:24 AM
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It may be UFC that says you can't use the Fel-Pro with their o-rings. I believe it's an o-ring placement issue.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2019 | 12:24 PM
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I was just reading about that and lots of other shops don’t recommend o-rings and Fel-Pro
 
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