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I was just reading about that and lots of other shops don’t recommend o-rings and Fel-Pro
It's been a few years back but seems that I read, unless your pumping big power, racing, o-ringed heads are not the way to go with the 6.0. Wish I had saved the article for you.
It's been a few years back but seems that I read, unless your pumping big power, racing, o-ringed heads are not the way to go with the 6.0. Wish I had saved the article for you.
It doesn’t hurt to have them, same with head studs versus bolts.
I have 175/30s, Powermax quite a few engine upgrades and I really don’t feel like dealing with blown head gaskets again so studs and o-rings it is.
I just pulled my 6.0 yesterday and took a photo of the belt route before I removed it.
Alternator is last. Look at SmackDaady's photo. The 1/2" breaker bar fits into the tensioner pulley arm on the right and then rotate clockwise to remove presurre from the tensioner. There is a spring loaded clip below the leftmost pulley of the tensioner that holds the rotated tensioner in place,Then put the belt on alternator and ease back the breaker bar, the clip will spring back in place and you are done.
I've never had any luck in getting a pry bar/tool into the 1/2" hole on the tensioner. I also have not had any luck pulling the belt so I can trip the lever on the tensioner. I have had multiple successes in using two large philips head screwdrivers placed in two holes in the base of the alternator with the belt loosely on and then putting the ends in the mounting and rotating the alternator up. Somewhere on this site is a better description and I believe a photo of how to do it.
I've done it that way too, but using a breaker bar is easier, IMHO. Not sure how you could get a pry bar in there though. If you still have the fan shroud/diffuser installed, it's a little tight but a short extension makes it work. I have had problems pulling the belt. It seems to go only so far and not enough, but just pull harder. It's not even so much that you notice it move any more, but it will, just enough to get the kickstand in place. You can feel the difference a little better when you pull again to let the kickstand drop away.
You can buy a slim tensioner wrench for about $15 or build one like the one in the 6.0 Tech Folder up top here. You guys are wearing me out with the screwdrivers...haha
I pulled it and had it stripped down to the block in 12 hours, I’m getting fast...haha
I have some interesting photos of the decks after 5200 miles. I might start a new thread.
I wish you would start a new thread. And please include all the images and info you've posted in several other threads as it's kind of all over the place right now. It would be nice to have it consolidated and would make a great reference.
Same goes for Jack's build. I'm specifically thinking about all the info in the "South Houston Engine Heads???" thread and these pics here. If it's all in your build thread already then nevermind, Jack. It's been a while since I've been there as I don't get email updates for some reason.
I get it, I've thought of that issue too. The problem for me is I step away from this "project" for months at a time. And even with that my videos are way, way behind what I actually do, so they don't match up either. But if someone is doing something and I think something may be pertinent, I drop that something in. I think I'm just going to post the videos on YT and not here, I've got videos here slashed all over the place with little of a story, and most people want to follow a story in a shorter timeframe in a single thread. Some of these treads get discussions, and others get no response.
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