So trying to do some maintenance on both trucks and get some mpg back. I pulled the tube on the F350 and it had some holes in it. I decided to order a tube online given the local parts store wants $90 and I can get it online for $15 or so...may order one for each truck. So I wrapped the holes with some HVAC foil tape and installed the original back in place until I can order and get the new units. When I went to install the nut on the tube at the exhaust manifold it wouldn't go on. I took a closer look and it appeared the brass threads were galled up. I was able to take a hammer and tap it up in a little and get it to tighten down. I am worried about taking it back off and installing the new unit only having troubles with it securing. The tube was actually clear and would like some thoughts on this.

Also, being the tube had holes to push exhaust gases and not pressurize normally, I am curious as to what this would do to the function of the PCM...especially during cold start. The EBPV does close and function during cold weather starts. I would also like to know if I can test the EBP sensor through Floscan to see if it needs replacement?

 

The fitting on the manifold should not be brass. You can get new fittings for $7 at Riffraff Diesel. As far as checking the EBP Sensor, you easily should be able to monitor it and see if it is working properly. I have done it on AE and also my Scangauge.

Many trucks are often broken or clogged with soot, so it should help to get the system tight again to improve mileage some.

 

MAP, BARO and EBP should be within .5 of each other on a cold (sat overnight) engine with the ignition on and engine off.

If one is not within .5 of the others, that indicates a failed sensor or issue related to the sensor.

You can use Forscan, TorquePro, Car Gauge Pro or other apps/programs. A lot of details can be found here.

7.3L PSD Tech Folder

 

MODERATOR COMMENT: I have removed the necessarily rude comment you posted. Please send me a PM if you would like to discuss this further. -Sous

You need a crow foot wench and a bit of luck to do the proceedure......you will need Brake line wrenches ...( offset Box;ends Or flare fitting )
and Maybe solder some Chit ( Heat shrinkin 2)I have a MT2500 and Auto Tap ...AutoEnginuity ( AE) ...Do a Injector Buzz Test and the Injector contribiution test......there are many opinions on the subject

 

Easy there Buddy, we all started out somewhere and learned as we went along...even you! Instead of being condescending, offer assistance...

 

First off, I guess you meant contribution...oh wait, maybe also procedure. What in the world does a buzz and contribution test have to do with the issues I'm having with the exhaust back pressure sensor tube...

 

his grammar and punctuation were all over the place there. (Might have been drunk.)

 

@blageurt I have edited your comment, please PM me or Stewart_H if you have any further questions.

@bwguardian , I apologize for not catching this sooner as I was driving all day today. I hope the rest if the thread is helpful and positive from here on out.

 

Apparently someone needs to put a quarter in the swear jar.

If the tube has holes the sensor won't be able to know if back pressure is too hight, the EBPV could stay closed under load and cause a problem. According to someone claiming to be an engineer that was part of the development team, the sensor is only there to regulate the valve and will have no effect on MPG or anything else, except during low temps where the valve might be commanded to close. I ran with my sensor off of the tube for several months, then re-installed it, and I noticed no changes. It was during warm weather when the valve wouldn't have come into play. Others swear that cleaning a clogged tube increased their MPG.