Hey guys and gals, I refreshed my 400 engine, I polished the crank, put new crank and con rod bearings, honed the cylinders and put in new rings, new gaskets throughout, new oil pump, and now it's time to prime the system.

I didn't get any machining done besides the honing, and I'm not quite sure if I should be priming the oil pump and running the engine with break in oil like it's a new engine, or if I should run some regular 10w30 or 15w40 or whatnot.
Break in oil in my area would need to be ordered in, and I do have the other stuff listed above on hand.

Any thoughts on the matter would be great, thanks.

 

If you are running the original cam and lifters you do not need to run break in oil, always prime the system when its been empty of oil

 

Cast iron rings? Moly? Since it sounds like you're not running in a new flat tappet camshaft the whole operation is not so critical, seems to me. The issue with piston rings is, or at least used to be, to avoid extended no load idling time. The idea generally is to get the engine under load as this is what forces them to expand under compression and run-in against the cylinder walls. Extended idling before the piston rings actually have a chance to take a good seat can lead to cylinder glazing, more or less kind of a permanent condition and it will be an "oil burner". Proper run-in will lead to a quieter, longer lasting engine.

Break-in oils are geared particularly for camshaft/lifters, usually with elevated zinc levels and few if any detergents or dispersants which interfere with the zinc (I guess). If it's Moly rings you've installed, these can be problematic or so I've heard. If that's the case I'd be inclined to try a break in oil or a straight weight non-detergent. I've only ever used cast iron rings. I'd say just drive it if cast iron rings. Don't baby it. Get it warmed up and on the highway soon after firing and some moderate full throttle and deceleration runs. Change the oil and filter after a few hundred miles.

 

The zinc additive should be available at most any parts house. I assume you have a new cam so it's required it's not optional.

Valvoline racing oil and a bottle of zinc additive should get you by since it sounds like you probably have mushy stock springs .

 

He didn't mention anything about a cam.

 

Thanks for the replies guys, original cam, but new lifters. I did put assembly lube on both the cam bearings and the bottom of the lifters.

Yes stock mushy springs.

Piston rings were engine tech m40058 "premium" whatever the hell that means haha

 

I'd run break in oil then, with new lifters! shell rotella and a zink additive.

 

shell rotella is the only brand that still has break in capability.

 

That I know of !!!!!

 

Get enough cheap Walmart Dino oil in whatever weight is recommended for your motor, filters and zinc additive for 2 oil changes. Pre prime it with oil, when it first fires up, get the rpms up to about 1500 and keep varying it between 1500 and 2500 for about 10 minutes. Dump the oil, change the filter, put in new Dino oil with more additive, drive it for 300-500 miles, dump the oil, change the filter and put in whatever oil you plan to normally run.

 

You could also get what used to be called Gibbs BR but now is now called Driven BR, break in oil, it's really good, no extra zinc needed.