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One vehicle, 1500 miles from home, 2011 F350 6.7, check engine light and trouble codes. Replaced boost/Wastegate solenoid, map sensor, checked all vac lines, checked egr operation and Wastegate operation with vac pump, I think I checked everything, hours and hours. I think I have vacuum when it's running because four wheel hubs work, but don't know where else there SHOULD be vacuum when it's running. I don't feel vacuum in larger vac hose in front when it's running. Any ideas??
I"m new to this engine, always had a Duramax. Shouldn't I be able to find vacuum on a hose somewhere on the motor?? I'm thinking the vacuum solenoids can't work if there is no vacuum. But... the 4x4 hubs engage ok!
What troubleshooting was done to lead to the vacuum pump? I’m getting a 1249 code every 4-5 trips and once got a 1249 and 24a5 code. I’ve been chasing vacuum hoses and wastegate solenoid. My 4x4 works so I assume my vac pump is good. How did you end up replacing yours?
I wasn't familiar with the 6.7 at all, so I did a few things first that didn't need to be done. Changed wastegate solenoid, even though there was no vac there to operate it. (Thought maybe vac came on later). Tried to clean map sensor, damaged it and had to replace!
You may just have a good vac leak somewhere, but;
Quickest check I found for no vacuum:
Watch the egr valve solenoid, it operates by vacuum the second you turn the key to the on position (have someone turn the key while you watch). When key is turned back off, it may take a minute for the valve to release, or gently remove the vac line. Older vac lines seem to crack easy. The system seems to hold vacuum even when not running.
Last thing I did was check the vac line coming straight up from the vacuum pump. There is a tee there somewhere. Had no vacuum when running.
Even bought a hand vac pump from Harbor Freight which helped verify operation of vac parts.
Got all my parts from Advance.
Tight working space, but only took 2 hours to change, a little tricky, just be careful. The black plastic vane in my pump was in a hundred pieces.
All codes and check engine light went away after a few running cycles for me.
Howdy, I was one of the original posters on this topic. The P24a5 is probably resulting from a clogged egr cooler. When you have the cooler assembly off to replace the core get a egr/bypass gasket as well and clean the carbon out of it paying particular attention to the door and passage the vacuum servo controls. You will likely find that the door cannot fully open because of carbon build up. As for the P1249 it is probably the turbo actuator mounted to the turbo. I created the same problems in my 2012 f350 by running way to long with a p0401 (low egr flow) caused by a plugged cooler. My rig has 233,000 miles and I am on cooler #6. Fords answer to how to prevent the coking is to limit your idling time. I virtually never idle mine except when driving in the Puget Sound area where I live.
Thanks for the replies. I’ll check that solenoid again and watch it’s movements. After I put a new vac hose on there I never thought to look again. Ill investigate the pump as well; however I believe it works based on my auto hubs working.
I only got the P24a5 code once and hoping it’s just related with the P1249 code. How difficult is it to change the actuator on the turbo? What led you to that? I assume it’s next in line after the solenoid and vacuum hoses?
Thanks for the replies. I’ll check that solenoid again and watch it’s movements. After I put a new vac hose on there I never thought to look again. Ill investigate the pump as well; however I believe it works based on my auto hubs working.
I only got the P24a5 code once and hoping it’s just related with the P1249 code. How difficult is it to change the actuator on the turbo? What led you to that? I assume it’s next in line after the solenoid and vacuum hoses?
I'm also getting the P1249, but no others. I replaced the Wastegate Solenoid and still having issue. Any other thoughts? Did replacing the turbo actuator work for you?
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