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Shane-I have done this numerous times in the past and have always used a plastic primer to help adhesion. The paint is then supposed to be sprayed while the primer is still slightly tacky.
I also cleaned the plastic really well to ensure there would be no issues.
In the past I’ve gone to local auto paint suppliers and have been able to get sprayable color matched interior paint.
Prep is just like anything else, except some plastics are not comparable with some solvent, so you need to check with the back of anything you are dealing with.
Shane-I have done this numerous times in the past and have always used a plastic primer to help adhesion. The paint is then supposed to be sprayed while the primer is still slightly tacky.
I also cleaned the plastic really well to ensure there would be no issues.
Rob
Thanks Rob!
Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
If you are not matching interior color and the part is plastic, any of the hardware store plastic geared paints have been fine.
I’ve used some of the paint from Diesel Manor to match interior and they are not bad.
In the past I’ve gone to local auto paint suppliers and have been able to get sprayable color matched interior paint.
Prep is just like anything else, except some plastics are not comparable with some solvent, so you need to check with the back of anything you are dealing with.
Thanks Jack, I definitely want it to match as close as possible, so I’ll get get the paint code from the sticker and order from the link you provided!
As Rob pointed out, there are also specific primers, I've used Duplicolors, but you need to see if the paint you use needs a primer. I've used this on bumpers. It's available at all auto retailers.
Any time you're painting plastics it's a good idea to give it a light wet sanding with 400 or 600 grit sandpaper. Then blow it off and wipe it down with denatured alcohol and a lint-free cloth before priming. And wear latex or similar gloves the whole time. Fingerprints are bad juju.
As for the blue spring kits, I just got a new one in the mail which will be replacing a four year old kit in the next couple of days. I'll report back if I find any anomalies.
Any time you're painting plastics it's a good idea to give it a light wet sanding with 400 or 600 grit sandpaper. Then blow it off and wipe it down with denatured alcohol and a lint-free cloth before priming. And wear latex or similar gloves the whole time. Fingerprints are bad juju.
As for the blue spring kits, I just got a new one in the mail which will be replacing a four year old kit in the next couple of days. I'll report back if I find any anomalies.
Thank Chris, I’m interested to see what you find.
I don’t know if I’m hyper sensitive right now, but I’m not convinced I haven’t done damage to at least one injector or the fuel pressure still isn’t what it should be... Can’t wait to get my gauge installed...
This may be self inflicted... A few weeks back I changed the fuel filters and cleaned the water separater and replaced the gasket. Since then I’ve periodically feel like I have an injector acting up, running rough at idle. Today I had 2 misfires show up on my Dashboss...This evening I let the truck cool down for about 30 min, pulled the secondary fuel filter cap off to find very little fuel in the housing.
Not making oil and not smoking... Could I have damaged something at the HFCM causing it to bleed off on the return side. Seems coincidental that the rough idle started after the filter change...
Edit.... After inspecting the main filter and orings, I filled the secondary housing back up and spun the engine over using the passenger side wire and didn’t see any bubbles.
I just replaced the secondary fuel filter standpipe and no more bleeding down.
I don’t know if I’m hyper sensitive right now, but I’m not convinced I haven’t done damage to at least one injector or the fuel pressure still isn’t what it should be... Can’t wait to get my gauge installed...
Be careful what you ask for. I installed a fuel pressure gauge a few weeks ago and have been obsessing over low fuel pressure ever since. Hence the blue spring kit....and a lot of other things.
Fuel pressure is up to 64psi at idle from 58psi since replacing the kit. I'm guessing it's mostly to do with the crack in the plunger seal, but I'm sure the weaker spring wasn't helping.
Not to self: Replace regulator in three years as preventative maintenance. Or spring for a return regulator and never worry about it again.
Odd thing about springs. they are rated at a given compressed state.
So you can have two that look different but if both when compressed
to x length and give the same force at that length. Both could be good.
The crack in the seal I think is more the issue that anything else.
Odd thing about springs. they are rated at a given compressed state.
So you can have two that look different but if both when compressed
to x length and give the same force at that length. Both could be good.
The crack in the seal I think is more the issue that anything else.
x2
The same situation that Pete and a few others have had.
Compressed length tension, other factors are winds per inch and wire size.
When I did my heads I bought a set of aftermarket valve springs that a few known rebuilders use. At valve close height they were the same as OE, valve open height, below spec. Wire size was a few thousand less smaller and they weighed less.
Return regulators have issues too. It certainly seems that the service side parts are not holding up as well as the OE assembly line parts did.
