There have been, I hadn't read through your post before as a would have said to check that o-ring. The person who comes to mind who had an issue was Pete, who identified the issue I believe with his fuel gauge and rectified it while on a camping trip. A number of times now we've seen a repeat, but as a group, we haven't put the o-ring at the forefront of the diagnostic. That's kind of why I did my post, try to solidify the check.

Where did you get the blue spring kit from?

I may not have the sensor installed the best way. I had been running the sensor off an aluminum fuel filter cap. Some say it will fail due to vibration installed like that, or it represents pressure on the filter, not the test port going to the injectors. I put it there as it was convenient, and I already had the caps installed. It may get moved to the test port, but I don't think I'm going to use the remote locating hose that I already purchased.

The gauge is the Isspro unit. It's OK, I've had the early production sensor fail as everyone has. Any gauge will work, and I may go to mechanical in the future. I see a fuel pressure gauge just as critical on any diesel motor as other parameters like water temp or oil pressure. You did well to install it.

I'm also getting paranoid enough to think about installing thermocouples in both exhaust manifolds so I can see any deviation of an injector flowing too much fuel and exhaust gas temperature rises.

Great job on finding the issue by yourself.

I don't have a direct image of the fitment.

 

Thanks Jack, much appreciated.

My company has an account with United Ford Parts in Tulsa. I try to buy all my parts from them, which is where I bought the blue spring kit, stand pipe, FP port plug, and o-ring kit.

I’m torn with just buying a new transducer for the DashBoss gauges or switching to a mechanical gauge. I’m not big on cluttering up the cab with aftermarket “stuff”. Either way I’ll get one in place.

Thanks again Jack!

 

I tend to beat problems to death .....

That's good to know it was a Ford kit. So that brings up another question, did you replace that o-ring when you did the spring or is that the original o-ring?

The reason I ask is some of the other situations where the o-ring failed was with the aftermarket kits. Those damn rings are really sensitive to nicks and having the right fuel resistant compound. Or they will crack with age. The best example may be the oil dipstick or cam and crack sensor o-ring failing in-service. OE does not mean it's always the best, not that I would have the answer.

 

Single pod. Wired to headlight switch to provide dimming when lights are switched on. Wish it dimmed more.

45*fitting for clearance and pvc hose for chaffing

Wired to upfitter switch

Here is my Glowshift setup for comparison.

 

Yes sir, each Motorcraft kit that I’ve purchased have come with a new cover, brass piece with o-ring, blue spring, and the little white piece with the tiny o-ring. Lol, sorry I don’t don’t know what all the parts are called.

But yeah, all new.

 

I guess we are going to have to keep on eye on even the Motorcraft kits. Thanks.

 

Thanks for posting pics. Nice to know I can keep my Oh Scat handle with the single Pod.

 

I appreciate the thread Shaneb75. I have had the secondary fuel filter "bleeding down" for awhile. Really hadn't worried about it all that much, but it was an annoying mystery. I had thought it was probably an issue w/ the HFCM, and when my pump failed, I just threw in a complete HFCM. Wasn't all that much more cost wise. It did not resolve the issue. That only remaining possibilities were the regulator and the "duck-bill" valve in the tank. The rubber "duck-bill" valve is cheap, but somewhat of a pain to pull the fuel tank sending unit. Good to know what to go after next when I have the time.

 

Mark, my interpretation of the "duck-bill" is a check valve to prevent fuel out of the tank, maybe more for when we drain the water.

 

I agree, but the rubber is closed enough that it should also prevent flow into the tank with only a few feet of head behind it. It seemed possible, even though unlikely.

 

Hmm, I thought it was to help prevent any air getting pulled back into the pump during a low fuel level state.

 

When the pump is running, fuel flows constantly through that line into the tank as I understand it. When the pump is off, the duckbill valve is closed, so neither fuel nor air will flow out of the tank. The tubing (and the fuel system) stays liquid full.

I also have an issue w/ fuel flow from the tank never stopping when I remove the primary filter (or when opening the water drain). I believe that to be a problem w/ that duck-bill valve - which is what Jack was suggesting I believe.

The solution for the constant draining problem is to simply change fuel filters when the fuel tank level is low.

 

Yeah, that’s how I theorize it Mark. I’ve never had an issue with constant fuel draining, water drain or filter.

 

Gladly. I’m just happy it was draining off toward the tank side! Less dollar signs that direction. That of course, If fix it time..... <chewing finger nails>

 

I ordered the following fuel gauge setup on Amazon. I will need to paint the POD beige. Does anyone have any experience or suggestions on painting dash parts?

Autometer 8463 Ford Factory Match
Autometer 15010 Gauge mount