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Old Sep 23, 2019 | 05:32 PM
  #31  
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What fun and excitement!
Here's the turbine wheel.


Shaft


Housing looks real good, doesn't seem to be any damage from the compressor wheel;


In order to save some $$$ I plan to reuse the turbine wheel and shaft.

My up pipes are OEM and look to be in good shape, if changing them out is necessary then now would be the time for sure.

If I delete the EBPV by removing the shaft and plugging the holes, do I just leave the piston assembly there?

My pedestal doesn't seem to be leaking as I don't see any fresh oil anywhere. Should I still pull it and put new o-rings in just to be safe?

I need to get this stuff ordered ASAP so really appreciate your feedback.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2019 | 11:30 PM
  #32  
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The Riff Raff 4x4 wheel is a good upgrade, and cheap.

Riff Raff also sells a turbo install kit that has the o rings and replacement bolts. More than you need but I like new bolts for this job.

If you do not need to smog your truck, and do not plan on using a EBPV exhaust brake, get a deleted pedestal. And the code eliminator.

OEM up pipes are done by now. Bellowed uppies are a no-brainer imo.

So yeah, call Clay. But maybe don't say anything about those premium IH uppies. Much cheaper and
functional-with-some-grinding functional-with-some-grinding
options are out there. If you go that route talk to us before doing the install.

To me, no sense going full Great Depression on this. Spend a bit to get the best bang for buck.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2019 | 07:39 PM
  #33  
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Okay, I ordered the parts from Riff Raff this morning. Clay was a big help.

Started cleaning everything to be prepared when the parts get here.


Decided to paint everything while I was at it.



Ordered the EBPV delete pedestal and exhaust adapter. Also deleting the AIH so ordered the bypass plugins.
Couldn't afford to do the up pipes as I wasn't prepared for this whole incident and stretched a bit to get the upgraded compressor wheel.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2019 | 02:56 PM
  #34  
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I will need to post a Things I learned during Turbo Build thread.
Assembled:


Installed:


Truck starts and runs fine. Won't know much about performance until the computer relearns everything.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2019 | 10:55 PM
  #35  
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Update.
I found out what the pulsating sound was. We were on a 2600 mile trip and it started that same sound when climbing a hill. Turned out to be the A/C compressor clutch cycling on and off.
Flipped the A/C to off and no pulsating and just a steady pull.

We were blessed by no issues all the way to our destination 1300 miles and then the hose from the power steering pump to the brake booster let go while in the parking lot trying to back the rig in. Glad it didn't pop while on I-40 or navigating the Arkansas mountain roads. No steering and no power brakes is scary stuff.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2019 | 11:40 AM
  #36  
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Rather than starting a new thread I will continue this one.
Under load I am hearing a high pitched tapping sound, almost like a sewing machine. My initial thoughts are that it is either a rocker arm out of adjustment or a hydraulic lifter starting to fail.
However I have read posts that indicate it could be injector noise.

Any thoughts or suggestions on how to diagnose and fix this problem?
 
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Old Nov 1, 2019 | 08:24 AM
  #37  
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Jim, didn't you recently have your injectors out of the engine for a homestyle rebuild? They may only need to be tightened.

Some of these fellas swear by a hot torque and a follow up check on the torque. I plan to perform both of those if/when I need to install injectors one day.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2019 | 09:03 AM
  #38  
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Good point. I remember reading about the hot re-torque but never got around to it.
The tapping noise is fairly loud when the engine is working under load but all but disappears when you let off the accelerator. Drove the truck yesterday without the trailer and even when accelerating hard didn't notice the tapping. Then again I seem to be getting hard of hearing lately and especially high pitched sounds.

I have some other work I want to do on the truck so I'll add that to the list.
 
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