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No worries, I want to get this fixed.
Is there a rebuild kit you would recommend? Anything else I should be looking at?
I would probably pull the inter cooler tube and see if there is any metal filings. But if it just started I don’t think I’d be to worried, I’d change your oil for sure though, just in case anything did get through. Then you have endless options. Riffraff has a rebuild kit and you can get stock replacements. Or if you want alittle performance go with a wicked wheel or even better a kc balanced assembly. Definitely a 360* rebuild kit though. While you are in there make sure your EBPV isn’t leaking if it is replace or delete it. I actually have a pedestal that’s brand new I’m not using I’d give you a smoking deal on. I was trying to attach a link but not sure how to do this on mobile. Sorry
also check with 1023 or any other diesel performance shop or amazon.
This is what my OEM turbo wheel looked like at 220,000 miles. A 360 bearing is a good idea, but a 270 would do just fine. I recommend Riffraff or Diesel-O-Rings with quality parts. If not, you will be doing it again.
Mine is definitely worn compared to that and it just turned 250k.
I definitely need this done right as I have a trip planned in late October.
The rebuild kits come in a variety of package combos. The KC balanced kit is a lot of money but very tempting based on the new design turbine wheel and upgraded compressor wheel. Amazon has complete turbos for close to the same price.
So for those of you who have done this before, are there other parts that will need to be purchased for this tear down and rebuild? Extra o-rings, seals, clips or connectors?
My recommendation is free advice and worth just that...
1. If you EVER plan to upgrade the turbo to a Garrett 38R, KC XXX, Borg Warner or any other turbo, stop now and reconsider your choices.
2. If you are keeping the stock turbo, a decent compressor wheel like the Riffraff 4/4 or any of the other flavors is a good idea.
3. Is your EBPV leaking? If so, look at rebuild kitsch or delete pedestals.
4. You should really consider the complete rebuild kit that has all the bolts and what not.
5. Make sure you have o-rings for the top of the pedestal and bottom if you are taking it off.
6. Are your up-pipes OEM, if so they are garbage and should be treated as such.
KC turbine wheel might be a good idea, I hear good things about it, but it is pricey as I understand it.
7. Boots OEM, are they in good shape?
8. Boot clamps?
The list goes on forever...
You are fully capable of rebuilding the turbo based on how you handled the injectors.
I agree with Sous. If you have a trip and it’s apart do it right the first time. If you plan to upgrade later now might be the time unless you don’t want to spend the extra funds. The stock one has lasted this long if you want to go that route but make sure it’s not a Chinese by product. Turbos are extremely easy to rebuild and if you did injectors it will be a breeze.
Right now I just want to keep the thing running. It has not given me any issues since I rebuilt the injectors.
I did notice that my MPG was down a couple of miles on this trip but I attribute that to the faulty turbo.
When you say EBVP leaking I am not sure where or how? I did clean the tube when I rebuilt the injectors but it wasn't plugged or anything.
Also, I am not sure about the up pipes. Don't know if they are stock or not.
Boots are in good shape and the clamps as well.
Right now I just want to keep the thing running. It has not given me any issues since I rebuilt the injectors.
I did notice that my MPG was down a couple of miles on this trip but I attribute that to the faulty turbo.
When you say EBVP leaking I am not sure where or how? I did clean the tube when I rebuilt the injectors but it wasn't plugged or anything.
Also, I am not sure about the up pipes. Don't know if they are stock or not.
Boots are in good shape and the clamps as well.
You need a new compressor wheel. It is up to you if you go with a billet upgrade or a Garrett OEM.
Your up-pipes are probably OEM and are crap. They will have flexible sections behind the baby butt/collector if they are not OEM. If they are OEM, they are or will be leaking.
The EBPV is not the same as the EBPS. EBPV is the pushrod under the turbo and integrated in the pedestal.
A couple of more questions before I start ordering parts.
Keep the EBPV or delete?
I see rebuild kits are available, are these complete kits to rebuild all aspects of the EBPV assembly?
Do I remove the entire turbo/pedestal assembly or just the turbo?
Which compressor wheel will upgrade performance without being extremely loud?
A couple of more questions before I start ordering parts.
Keep the EBPV or delete?
I see rebuild kits are available, are these complete kits to rebuild all aspects of the EBPV assembly?
Do I remove the entire turbo/pedestal assembly or just the turbo?
Which compressor wheel will upgrade performance without being extremely loud?
Thanks for all the help.
Personally I’d delete the pedestal if you aren’t exposed to extreme cold. Even I did up in Wisconsin and we get some nice bone chilling weather. I just plug it in which does more for it then that exhaust valve.
EBPV delete is a personal choice that only you can make. Some use it to warm up the engine faster in cold climates. I used high idle on the Hydra or the OEM, factory equipped high idle feature that kicks in automatically.
Some use it for an exhaust brake if they have DP or another tuner. I never saw or see a need for it, but others are very passionate about the EBPV being an exhaust brake. I feel I should add I have a ZF6 and drive like I have nowhere to be when I am in the truck.
No experience with the rebuild kit, I didn't like it pissing oil in the valley and onto the clutch.
As for the wheel, I only have first hand experience with the @Riffraff Performance 4/4. It performed great for what it was and I was very happy with it in the OEM turbo.
You can get an OEM replacement wheel as well if you wanted to stay with what you know.
