Where do I start. I have been having a problem with my idle and a problem with engine noise while climbing a grade. So I decided for the third time to have the codes ran. The computer came back with code 111. (no codes present). I went thur all the preformance test that the computer had for the ford engines. it checked my timing there were no problems to be found. then it checked my injectors. no problems found there. at this point I was getting frustrated that the computer was giving the engine a pass with flying colors. Then it came down to the snap test and the engine has passed this one twice before. well this time it pinged...yet the computer stated it was all good that the engine was running with in parameters.

the mechanic said that was not good the ping part during the test and decided to do a test that would measure the deflection in the timing chain...well it would turn out that I have six (6) degrees of deflection. and so I have decided to replace the timing chain.

well here comes the part were I need some advise. I have never done this type of work on a ford v-8 only on chevy,s and it need to know what needs to happen for me to do this...???

do I need to drop the oil pan ?

I know I have to take off the water pump. should I replace it ? it is the original pump.

what is all entailed in the replacement of the timing chain and what type of gear set should I buy ?

what type of gasket set ?

 

Would be a good time to replace the pump. You can leave the oil pan on you may need to loosen it a bit, depends on what you wanna do when you get there. Stock replacement chain should be fine. Any gasket set should work for this, you will need a little rtv sealant to put it where the old oil pan gasket and the new piece come together. You will need a balancer puller other than that it is pretty straight forward, you will figure that out when you get into it. Good luck

 

We could use a little more info. How many miles? What engine?

 

it is 1995 f150 5.0 (302) with 161394.0 miles.

 

I didn't have to remove my water pump on my '84 f150 with 302 and now a 351w. You can get all the timing cover bolts out with a little work, but well worth it. There are 4 oil pan bolts that need to come off, 2 on each side. The only specialty tool you need is a puller for the harmonic balancer. Otherwise, it's fan, shroud, drain your radiator, pull your hoses, remove your fuel pump (on mine), and yank off the water pump and timing cover together.

 

Ummmh, 6 degrees is not enough to warrant timing chain replacement, from what I've heard. 8-10 is more like it. Did you do the check, or did your mech? You can check yourself by rotating the crank in normal direction to where the timing marks in the damper line up, pop dist cap, and rotate crank in opposite direction til rotor starts to turn. Read degree change... there you go.
What is the problem you have with idle? What kind of noise does it make going up a hill? Perhaps the wizzards here can diagnose your problem from THOUSANDS of mile away.. It has been known to happen.. give it a try..
tom

 

tomw
I reread each post and not one stated the timing chain was the problem, however he said he was gonna change it and we offered the how too. I mentioned it might be a good time to replace the water pump since he was gonna be there, which makes sense given the miles and unknown origin of parts. Don't ya think

 

Soitenly, change the pump if you go that deep. But, seems to me that the questions being asked indicate the level of mechanical experience as needing some input... His mechanic is wrong, in my opinion, as some FoMoCo engines will ping sometime during their test process. I *think* that the ECM decides to advance the timing to check for knock sensor function.
So, fine, wanna change it? Go ahead, but I'd suspect that the results will be disappointing. A timing chain, even one about to self-destruct, had not caused a bum idle in my experience. Cam lobes, valves, lifters, plugs, wires, carb or injectors, yes. Timing chain? no, unless it is trying to walk the chain around the teeth, and that would show a LOT more slop than 6 degrees... So, I think he is barking up the wrong highway...
tom

 

tomw
I agree it seems odd, then again anything is possible.

Jack01
Have you found the problem yet? Always interesting to find out what the real problem is after suggestions are made. Later

 

no i have not yet as of this date found the problem. the idle seems to be getting worse. it is an on off thing. i have yet to change the timing set an will be completing that task soon my experience with engines tells me that yes the chain is stretched but that should not cause the rough idle and the hunting for an idle at start up. and when i come to a complete stop. it will either drop below normal idle (like the engine is going to die) or it will rev it self up. i am fustrated with it an will be tearing into the timing chain the second week of Novmeber.

the noise that the engine makes when climbing a grade is the sound of a relief valve releasing pressure (could be the sound of pinging the engine is at a high rpm ounder a heavy load)

 

I can't say for sure that the timing chain is causing the problems you are experiencing, but 6 degrees is too much slack and you are right about replacing the timing set. Max tolerance is 2-3 degrees. I got a new set from NAPA for 20 bucks. The gasket set I got has the front oil pan gaskets, water pump gaskets, a new oil seal for the timing cover, a little tube of rtv and a fuel pump mounting gasket which I won't need with EFI. Have you checked the condition of the catalytic converter? I would also go through and check the sensors and be sure they are working properly. I guess it's possible for them to not register correctly but still not be out of range, which wouldn't turn on the check engine light.

 

I think you have a vacuum leak then, just a thought. later