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But this is not the original carb because it has a automatic choke. All 1965/66's had a manual choke w/a choke cable.
And, no Lincoln had a 2100 series 2V, all were 4V's.
Ok. I feel like I'm chasing my tail here. Yes, that is not the original carb for the truck, as I thought I clarified later. I'm not claiming the Lincoln carb is even close to a 2100. Was just using for reference.
Would the dealer installed A/C have included an electric solenoid for the carb?
Check out portions of the dealer installed accessory (denoted by the *) for the 1964 model trucks. Condenser is on the roof, blower is on the ceiling of the cab!
In the 70's the shop I ran was installing a few hundred AC's a year, and I'd say 90% of the kits came with electric kickers, but a lot of the cars didn't need them. We'd only install them if we didn't like how they handled the compressor.
Check out portions of the dealer installed accessory (denoted by the *) for the 1964 model trucks. Condenser is on the roof, blower is on the ceiling of the cab!
In the 70's the shop I ran was installing a few hundred AC's a year, and I'd say 90% of the kits came with electric kickers, but a lot of the cars didn't need them. We'd only install them if we didn't like how they handled the compressor.
That would prolly 'splain why my Lincoln doesn't have one (460 4v) and why my truck (non original 390 4v with it's freshly rebuilt compressor) hardly needs it, but will add it. Thanks
Ok. I feel like I'm chasing my tail here. Yes, that is not the original carb for the truck, as I thought I clarified later. I'm not claiming the Lincoln carb is even close to a 2100. Was just using for reference.
Would the dealer installed A/C have included an electric solenoid for the carb?
What came on your truck originally is irrelevant. You're trying to solve a problem: maintaining a sufficient idle while the compressor is running. As luck would have it, you have a head start because you have a bracket that's made to hold a solenoid and it has a large adjustment range. It doesn't matter what the bracket originally came on, and it doesn't matter what the original purpose of the solenoid was. Use what will work to solve your problem. You could use almost any electrically activated throttle solenoid that you can bolt on so long as you tie it to the compressor clutch circuit and are able to adjust it to work.
When I ordered brake hoses I kept getting ones that wouldn't work, so I used '72 style front brake hoses on my '66 by using adapters and making some short steel lines. Be creative.
What came on your truck originally is irrelevant. Be creative.
With all due respect, I find it a bit odd that someone who wrote an extensive restoration guide would think that. Certainly my truck is nowhere near a top notch restoration, but I do like to keep it "looking" original. At the very least, I like to be edumacated as to what was original back then. Never too old to learn as far as I'm concerned.
I picked up an electric solenoid today from the junkyard. Will adapt it to fit the holley carb when I'm finished with the rebuild. Thanks too all who chimed in
With all due respect, I find it a bit odd that someone who wrote an extensive restoration guide would think that. Certainly my truck is nowhere near a top notch restoration, but I do like to keep it "looking" original. At the very least, I like to be edumacated as to what was original back then. Never too old to learn as far as I'm concerned.
I picked up an electric solenoid today from the junkyard. Will adapt it to fit the holley carb when I'm finished with the rebuild. Thanks too all who chimed in
Almost no one does a true concourse restoration on these trucks as it would cost a fortune, you would never get your money back and it's much more safe and fun to drive with a few improvements here and there.
The restoration guide is to provide information to help people find the parts they want to keep stock or factory options they want to add. Everyone can decide for themselves how much they want to keep stock or stock appearing. My truck had so many original parts I wanted to keep it looking original, but...
I used an aftermarket aluminum water pump and 4 barrel intake, an Autolite 4100 from a '66 Galaxy, an aftermarket cam, roller timing chain and valve train, a 5 speed transmission, a nodular 31 spline rear axle with Traction Lok and 3.70 gears instead of the stock 3.25s, '68 model 3" front drums with custom made ceramic shoes that stop like discs. I made all these changes so it's fun to drive. I can drive it in traffic, up and down hills, anywhere I want to go. I try to keep it looking period correct, by adding options that were available then, but didn't actually come on it like factory power steering, power brakes and dealer A/C (although not working yet). If you open the hood it appears like it could have come straight from the dealer like this, which is my goal. I'm working on "nearly" correct transistorized ignition. Hopefully, no one but me will be able to tell it wasn't factory original.
