Sounds like your gauge is pretty accurate then and she does run warm. Following the rear trans line back up to the radiator. Is that hooked to the bottom of the rad or the top?
It should run out from the front trans, into the upper section of the rad, then exit from the lower portion and return to the trans.........but I don't know if actually reversing those would even produce much of, if any of a degree change or not. I wouldn't expect it to the bulk of the reason why she's running that warm. The engine temp must be ok and everything so I'm sure the rad is ok. Well, a nice aux cooler will drop temps without question. I'm just surprised she's running that warm going down the road when it's not even that hot out. I'm out of ideas lol. It can't be the pump, because you say it's pumping out with very good flow,so. Who knows. Maybe it's an aftermarket rad and just not designed as well as oem. It is very surprising that an aux cooler isn't installed in an RV anyway, so adding one is no doubt going to help things drastically. If you don't, I couldn't imagine what you might see, pulling a long hard grade in 80-90F temps. No doubt, far outside the safety zone.

I do think you'd see code 62 if the converter didn't lock up but still, Id be nice to know for 100%. I wonder if could try driving 40mph with the windows down on a flat grade, keeping your foot on the accelerator and riding the brake just a touch with the ear near the window, if you could hear the engine rev differences between riding the brake and not? That converter not locking up would explain the temps. Adding an aux cooler would fix that but it wouldn't fix the fact that fuel economy would be much lower than it should be.

 

Hi

the fuel economy is round about 11mpg.
for me its a little to high.
i think its not the original Radiator. Date on it 2005

 

Hi there,
yesterday I replaced the MLPS switch.
everything went well. however, I do not get exactly on the line. Since I'm completely at the end of the holes. it is very minimal but not exactly on the line.
Engine starts, only in park and neutral. is that normal???

Today I drove and the transmission went back to neutral. then I switched to Nerutral and switched back to D without success. then I switched to 2nd gear then back to D and it was ok again.

Marc

 

If it starts in park and neutral, but not in any other gear, it's adjusted close enough to work properly.

There is something else wrong. Even if the MLPS is reporting that the trans is in neutral when it isn't, it cannot make the trans shift to neutral. That can only be accomplished by moving the shifter to neutral, or something is broken inside the transmission.

 

do you have any idea?
it does not happen very often. I drive, then without any particularity it goes into neutral. When I accelerate, the engine just turns up. after a few seconds everything is back to normal.

 

the previous owner told me, that it started after an rebuilded transmissdon was installed.

 

Does it do this going down the road or from a stop?

 

during normal driving.
I have not found any special situation. mostly
highway 60-70 mph but also in city traffic.

today i drove out of a side street and was accelerating when the transmission went neutral. however, i thought this was different than before the mlps renew.
When I accelerate it does not happen unless the speed goes up. no boost.

 

You are going to need to find a way to see data from the PCM. If the MLPS says neutral the trans shifts to first gear, which feels exactly like neutral. If it is still doing it with a new MLPS then there is a possibility of a wiring issue, or something mechanical inside the transmission. Before removing and rebuilding the trans I would want to see if the PCM is seeing the MLPS telling it to go to neutral.

 

with the old sensor I had code 67.
today I had 23 and 11.
is there a way to check the pcm

if the transmission switches to first gear, should the engine speed go up?

 

getting a code 23 can be normal IF you don't hold the throttle to the floor while retrieving code. code 11 is system OK

 

I would make sure that there is no slop in the Linkage and it was adjusted properly so that all the detents fall in the correct position.

just wondering could mounts be causing the engine/transmission to move so that it can jump out of gear ??? ... just a thought... I've seen this happen on some vehicles.

 

could a badly adjusted shift cable trigger that?

 

I'd be looking real hard at wiring too ... I'm pretty sure if MLPS voltage is around 3 volts it can Confuse the PCM too.

I would almost bet if you monitored the Voltage on Pin 30 when this issue happens you might catch it around 3 Volts or more.

you can check the MLP Sensor resistance ranges to be sure they are in Spec.

EDIT: OK I think Neutral should be 4 volts and maybe not 3 but IF you are not getting a good clean 5 volts to the MLP sensor which is just a voltage divider then the voltage sent to the PCM would be wrong.

in OD the Voltage would be 4.5 V but IF it dropped to 4 volts then you could have a problem..... so the 3 Volts I first mentioned would be 4 instead.... Based on Ohm's Law

 

I'll measure that. how many volts are normal?
is pin 30 + or -
sorry i am a mechanic not an electrician