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E4OD fluid leak extrem

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Old Aug 13, 2019 | 05:47 AM
  #16  
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Hi there,

can you tell me what oil temperature sensor kit. I like to place it at the service port.

fits to my E4od. Best with Amazon link. Is easy to order for me.
And which oil cooler is advisable.
Marc
 
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Old Aug 13, 2019 | 09:02 AM
  #17  
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I'm running an older B&M super Cooler 12" X 16" X 2" rated for better than 30K BTU, but it ain't enough for my truck hauling my Slide in Camper.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 04:30 PM
  #18  
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Hello the leak from the tranny I have not found so far. I let the engine run warm and have found that it is wet at the oil pressure sensor between the engine and tranny and runs sideways. The liquid is watery and stinky. what could that be?
 
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 07:49 PM
  #19  
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I can't tell from the picture what it is.... diesel fuel ???? engine coolant ?????

I know it's in a Van so would be hard for it to be rain water, are you loosing Engine coolant ?

wipe it up with some paper towels, maybe you can tell more about what it is.


Could it be leftover from you cleaning up the transmission ?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 05:07 PM
  #20  
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Hi There,
I repaired my cooler lines because I suspected the leak there. and mount a temperature sensor into the test port.
Now I have driven 300 kilometers. Speed ​​60-70 mph on the highway uphill, downhill not fully loaded, then I have an oil temperature 200F up to 215F. What is the maximum temperature allowed?
If I want to install an additional cooler, which one should I use? what size? There are also some with fans, which could be switched on if necessary.
and where should it be installed.
I know it has to go into the return line, but the position in the engine compartment is not clear to me.

many thanks for your help.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 07:01 AM
  #21  
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Rule of thumb I was told Is ideal max temp is 100 degrees over ambient. I put a Tru cool Max on my e4od, works well. Temp port is just above the Pan on driver's side.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 07:42 AM
  #22  
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Normal temperature is 100°F over ambient.

You can go as high as 220°F all day long with no problems. You can go as high as 250°F for no more than a half hour at a time. If the trans gets hot DO NOT SHUT THE ENGINE OFF! Idle or fast idle in park or neutral to cool it off.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 07:50 AM
  #23  
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Hi there,

is it normal to get 215F at ambient 60F with non heavy load at highways?
and is there not a minimum of fluid Temp
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 08:58 AM
  #24  
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No, that's high. It should be 160-200°F under those conditions.

There could be debris blocking the coolers, a kinked line in the cooler circuit, the torque converter may not be locking, etc. A good place to start is looking at the radiator and other coolers to see if there is anything blocking the airflow, Also get the codes read. The places that read codes free CANNOT read these codes. A good way to do it is with Forscan, available free at www.forscan.org. You will also need an ELM327 adapter, which is about $30 at Amazon.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 12:41 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
No, that's high. It should be 160-200°F under those conditions.

There could be debris blocking the coolers, a kinked line in the cooler circuit, the torque converter may not be locking, etc. A good place to start is looking at the radiator and other coolers to see if there is anything blocking the airflow, Also get the codes read. The places that read codes free CANNOT read these codes. A good way to do it is with Forscan, available free at www.forscan.org. You will also need an ELM327 adapter, which is about $30 at Amazon.

hi my old RV have only obd1
i checked the Codes and get one code from the neutral switch.

i changed my fluid and flush it till it’s clean with the return tube of the radiator. So I think the airflow of the Radiator is free.
how can I check the work of the TC?

thanks Marc


 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 04:04 PM
  #26  
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Is it possible to install a additional cooler in front of the Radiator or do

can I build a additional cooler in front of the Radiator, or do I take the wind away from the Radiator?





 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 04:13 PM
  #27  
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There should be a cooler in front of the radiator. The cooling circuit leaves the front of the transmission and goes to a cooler inside the radiator. From there it goes to a small cooler in front of the radiator. Then it returns to the rear of the transmission.

Changing the small cooler to a larger one will help with the temperatures. Make sure it is a stacked plate cooler. Those coolers have a manifold on each end (or top and bottom) and each tube connects the two manifolds. There are also coolers available that have one tube that passes back and forth. These are called tube and fin, and are very inefficient.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 04:59 PM
  #28  
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Hello Mark,

there is no small cooler.
in front of the radiator is the condenser of the air conditioning system. and nothing else.
There is enough space in front of it to the grill
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 05:12 PM
  #29  
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the B&M I run is stacked plate... it does well without passing thru the Radiator BUT as I said before it is Marginal at just over 30K BTU ... I'm sure it would do fine IF I could run it thru the Radiator too.

it would probably work fine in a Van.

it would never hurt to add a filter to protect the Cooler as they are expensive and very hard to clean IF crud gets into it.

I don't have any Radiator shops in my area that will replace the cooler inside my OEM Radiator .. this is why I only run the external cooler.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2020 | 11:33 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Pocket E350
Hello Mark,

there is no small cooler.
in front of the radiator is the condenser of the air conditioning system. and nothing else.
There is enough space in front of it to the grill
I like the Tru-Cool LPD4739 with thermal bypass. My trucks with the E4OD both have these and once up to temp, they run about 180F (@ test port) summer through winter, hauling, towing or running empty.




Originally Posted by lonewolf_
the B&M I run is stacked plate...
I've had great success with theirs too.
 
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