Hi there,
thanks a lot for your help.
do you think that's sufficient?
Tru-Cool Max 30000 GVW Transmission Oil Cooler LPD4921 Low Pressure Drop OC-4921

Marc

 

Unsure if there's room in a van, but an extra ac condenser makes a really good trans cooler, there enough room in a pickup to stack two in there..

 

I 100% agree with this ^^^^^^^^ I wonder what the BTU rating might be..... have you by chance measured a Delta T on it ?

 

Part number: LPD49211

GVW Rating: 30,000 GVW

BTU Rating: 34,000

Cooler size: 6" x 23" x .75"

Number of plates: 12

 

I haven't but years ago a friend of mine used one and the line coming in was too hot to keep your hand on and the line coming out was room temp. This was at idle of course and it was a parallel condenser for r134a iirc, not a series condenser like for r12.

It makes sense to me because it's bigger than any trans coolers available and a hell of alot cheaper especially if sourced from a boneyard.

 

The problem with the AC condenser, they claim (I've never tested one personally) is that they just don't have adequate flow. That means even if they cool the fluid down, the lack of proper lube going through the trans will lead to a shortened life. I wouldn't do it.

More than likely, if you can find a better deal and savings on that one, I'm sure it would serve you well also. Before loosing my trans (unrelated to heat! haha) I had a fairly small B&M cooler and it too did very well, so. Of course I'm not out in Arizona in the summer in the desert towing a 5th wheel so I mean, all things relative I suppose. Under most circumstances it doesn't take a huge amount of cooler (placed in line after the radiator) to cool an E4OD. They pump like crazy when the converter locks, unlike the latter 4R100's. That's why the latter guys like those massive 6.0l trans coolers. The E4OD imo couldn't make use of one of those fully at max gross ratings pulling a 5ver up the rockies. Or in other words if you found yourself in need of anything major to keep the E4OD cool (much, much different than them old C6's too for example without a locking converter) then the odds are very high, that you either a. don't understand proper trans operating temps should be ideally 175F @ the test port (160-225 is all good and safe) and or, you're way over the gross rating of any truck that came equipped with an E4OD.


With that said, you really should re-read Marks post @ #24 again though. Because driving empty at 60F outside shouldn't be yielding you 215F trans temps even without a aux trans cooler so, inspect those lines carefully.
What I would do is unhook the cooler line at the back of the trans and stick a bucket under the line. Start the truck, and see if fluid is gushing right out of the line and shut the truck off inside 10 seconds. If it's not, then you should shoot some compressed air through the trans cooling section of the radiator to see if it blows out any obstructions.

That is to say if 215F is with your temp sensor @ the test port. You didn't say and we are assuming, and you know where that gets us lol. If 215F is in the cooling line out from the converter for example, then that could mean overall trans temps as measured at the test port for example, could be around the perfect zone, so. All things relative there also.

 

that is a good point about flow restriction......what does the E4OD flow, about 4 Gallons per Minute ?
not all condensers are created equal either..some maybe flow better than others... is it a best solution, maybe not as they ain't designed to cool oil.
I think you could possibly run into having Tranny fluid too Cool also depending on where you live, so thermal bypass would be a good idea.


The LPD4921 with thermal bypass runs around $140 bux from the normal places I check BUT some folks want to Retire off of them and sell as much as $400 Bux
I should probably grab one and use it with the B&M cooler I already have

 

Hello

The sensor is in the test port.

I recently changed the complete gear oil and rinsed the gear according to the method you called me and Mark and installed a new filter. Oil actually came out of the pipe properly.
There was only slight abrasion on the magnet in the oil pan.
I suspected a leak in the cooler lines and inserted a piece of hose in both.
What always drives me to despair, is reading the oil level. You just don't really see where the oil is. The filler tube vibrates so that I always have the impression that oil is shaken off when it is pulled out.
When I hit 50 mph the temperature goes down a bit. but always around the 200F.

My RV weighs GVWR 11500

 

The E4OD cooler circuit flows one (1) gallon of ATF per minute.

 

Thanx Mark.. I didn't know, that is a lot less than I thought.... so maybe a condenser could flow that much without much issue.... wouldn't be hard to test one knowing what flow rate was needed.

 

I imagine a series (r12) condenser could hit that 1gal a minute no problem. The tubes are a decent diameter.

They're designed for liquid freon, so I imagine they would work just fine for oil, just maybe not as good?

When you look at most aftermarket trans coolers, most aren't half the size of a condenser. Surface area is everything. They're all practically the same design, except the AC condensers appear to have more fins, which give it alot more surface area as well.

 

where else can the temperature come from?
how do I check if the TC is working properly. is there a procedure?

Marc

 

here is a good video on a General lockup converter


you can test lockup by driving at about 50 MPH then tap brake pedal lightly and the Engine RPM should increase when the clutch disengages.

 

While you run that test you must hold the accelerator pedal steady. Don't let off the pedal and then tap the brake pedal.

 

ok i will test it and let you know.
many thanks