I could mount it in the glove box, but you know the glove box material isn't that great for mounting. You don't really need it once you set it. It has some great data it gives, but what is usually recommended is that you leave it out until you get everything programmed and then tuck it under. I think I'd have some of the same problems in the glovebox trying to bend the wires around. Theres lots of options this box does. I won't use all of its capabilities. I think you can run multiple programs so you can set it for racing or towing or what have you. The quickshift 6 has even more options. I probably could have just got the quickshift 2. Oh well. I am still very pleased with it except for being able to mount it.

 

Ok... So I learned that you can't tap the same accessory wire when connecting the dakota digital box and the Baumann controller. I'm guessing the computer boards pulse or do something that interact with each other. So I depinned the tach and speed output wires since those were the only other wires I had hooked up to the baumann to double check if it was that. It wasn't. When I connected the baumann to another power source, everything worked fine again. Had to adjust my speed signal on the dakota, It was quite easy since I had the speed on the baumann, just had to match them up. Got the speedo dialed in now. I need to find a more permanent accessory wire to tap and tuck the baumann under the dash. Still loving the overdrive.

 

glad to hear you're happy with the trans controller. i'm swapping a 5.0 / 4r70w into my '71 and have the Baumann also.

 

This sounds like a job for a metal glove box alternative. https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles...67-72-similar/

 

So, I don't have MPG numbers just yet. I need to get a few more miles on it once all the giddiness of getting in the secondaries wears off. I can still say I FREAKING LOVE this upgrade. My truck wants to cruise at around 80. I feel like I'm holding it back at 55. At 55 the engine is running like 1650 RPM. I'm not going to say it lugs, but it definitely isn't punchy when I hit the pedal until it downshifts, which is fairly quick. I spent some time on the phone with USSHIFT about the controller and have a few ideas. I need to build my own shift table so I can get the upshifts / downshifts where I prefer them as well as TC lock up. Also there is a wire that I can put a momentary switch on and set up 4 different shifting tables, so I can have economy, towing, racing or whatever and cycle through it with the touch of the button. I need to figure out how I want to do that and how I can tell what program I'm in without seeing the USSHIFT box. Also another wire for turning off the OD like the stock trucks had. I have an idea for that. Since I re-wired the truck, the AAW wire harness doesn't provide support for cruise control. I kinda want that, but I gotta wrap my head around how ford did it. So, this leaves me with a few buttons on my steering wheel. I can use one of the cruise control buttons to turn off OD. I need to see what lights I have on my Dakota digital dashboard. Maybe there's and OD light. If not, I could use the 4x4 or Low Range lights since I'm 2wd. It also has paddle shifter capability..... the cruise buttons seem to make sense except that's some sort of single wire ground magic to make all those buttons work. I don't think my voodoo is quite that level yet.

 

Well.... I got some fuel numbers. I'm getting 10.6 Mpg right now. I'm not fully tuned at the moment and the engine only has 600 miles on it. I'm having trouble with the automatic choke since I put the throttle position sensor on. I've also found that I get a little bit of valve rattle when the engine is really warmed up at highway speeds if I put my foot in it. I tried getting the carb tuned like the videos say to tune the holley, and It just isn't working the same. I put the vacuum gauge on, and at idle it is saying late valve timing. I can get it right in the sweet spot for vacuum by advancing the timing, but then its a ping monster. I've got it set right at 10 and that seems to be the most I can get I will say when I had it advanced it's got gobs of power until it starts to rattle and ping. I'm guessing the custom cam maybe is causing that vacuum issue. I don't know. Needle doesn't bounce. Adjusting air/fuel doesn't move it much, but I did adjust that like the holley instructions say. I can tell something is off because I did have it to where it would start with just a bump of the ignition, now it takes a little cranking.

Anyway, I got sidetracked. So, 10.6 MPG at the moment. I think I really need to regear this truck. It cruisies at 55-60MPH at around 1450 and it is not very responsive in that rpm range. Thinking the cam was for the C-6 and the higher RPM range vs coming on a little lower. I dunno. With the 4.10s it used to have, I bet it would be running in the sweet spot. The nice thing with the baumann I can change parameters, and I probably can fix most of my issues that way. I'd like it to hold second a little longer, downshift sooner as rpms drop and maybe not upshift into OD until 50mph or so..... 45mph is difficult. I think If I add the O/D switch then I could just manually kick it out of OD that might do the trick too. I would have to say that 3.73 would probably be the minimum gear to run with this although it really isn't a slouch and I don't want you thinking the truck is a dog by any means. I'm just saying to put it more on par with the C6 performance, then 3.55s might be a step too high.

 

Sounds like you might benefit from an AFR meter for tuning or even make the leap to EFI. Depending on the grind, your cam could be way off the power band which is also not helping responsiveness in the low end.