Aaron, you mentioned how low the deep pan hangs. I took a picture from the side for you.

 

Oh... Update. Took the driveshaft in to be cutdown. I had them cut it down and replace the carrier bearing. I had redone the the long driveshaft about a year ago so I only took in the shorter one. The driveshaft company wanted both pieces to dynamically balance the driveshaft. So I had to take that in. Should be ready tomorrow. I'm working on the shifter now. I've taken a closer look and it does look like the heim joints will be the easier option. I made another post to see if anyone had some better ideas. We'll see.

 

Can you post pic of the fuel tank hanging down?

 

I can.... may be a day or two. I got rid of the saddle tank and went with the 36 gallon tank. I can see how this would be a problem with the dual tank. The magazine says you have to move it back a little bit and massage it with a rubber mallet. The big tank does hang down, but it's not any lower than what the spare tire did. I've seen some trucks where its very noticeable, but it doesn't seem too bad. I'll get it in a day or so.

 

Wow that's insane haha. Is that an extra capacity pan or something?

For a hauling truck, that's actually ideal so it gets more airflow. Thanks for the pic!

 

The Quick 4 is a pretty slick piece of equipment but....it has a mind numbing amount of features.No problem for the super tech savvy I guess but I really struggled trying to figure mine out.Had Bauman set it up for what I had but it wasn't quite right.Their tech guy lost me right after he said"can I help you?". Finally figured out my basic shift points but it was just the tip of the iceberg as far as adjustments go. Have fun!!

 

Aaron, it’s an 8 quart derail pan. I believe it will keep it cool and extend the life. I won’t be towing much with it but on occasion.

Heres the pic of the fuel tank.

 

Thanks for the fuel tank pic. I have one sitting in the box I haven't installed. Was wondering if I needed to make something to cover it up. Looks like the hitch blocks most of it.

 

Ok. Was off work today so got a little more done. I picked up the driveshaft today. I had 4 inches cut off the short piece. I had them change the carrier bearing and put new UJoint in it and then Dynamically balance it. I had already had the back done, so I had to take it in for the dynamic balance. Cost was $271.



With that done I need to focus my attention to the shifter situation. So I went by the hotrod shop in town and a dozen other places. Main thing I learned, I could get 90% of what I needed at tractor supply. I got various bushings bolts and some heim joints. I dont exactly know what its going to take to do this yet but I got some pieces for the trial and error. Then I went by a buddy's shop and picked through his scrap steel drop offs so I could find some suitable steel to make my shifter bracket. I looked into having it done on a cnc.... $100 per hour, 4 hour minimum PLUS material. So I'm making it myself. Here's some various measurements. I figure I need a bushing to put in the E4OD shift arm, and I believe the bracket arm should have the same length shift lever to maintain the proper detents. I looked at the C6 and the shift arm on the transmission starts out horizontal whereas the E4OD starts out at a 45 degree down (give or take). I figure that as long as the pivot hole to rod hole distance is the same that it should maintain the proper travel. We shall see.


Then I got some plate steel that is about the same thickness as the shifter arm 0.133 IIRC. I drilled some 3/8 holes and freehanded the bracket. I used the bracket that I took off 96 diesel E4OD as a template for the 2 mounting holes and drilled a 3/8 hole about an inch lateral and down. First pic is actually upside down for how it fits.


Then I got those misc bushings and bolts and heim joints. I thought I could use regular threaded rod but its 16 TPI instead of 24, so I need to go get some rod tomorrow. I'll try tractor supply first.

 

Ooooooo we are getting cloooooose!

 

Ok..... So now i think I got my parts all figured out. I've rebuilt this damn adapter more times than I care to count today. It's still not right. I've got a pretty good idea on what I need to do now. I'm off again on Friday so I'll put some more time in then. There are several struggles to overcome. The C6 shift arm is horizontal facing forward in Park. The E4OD is facing down at a 45 degree angle (give or take) and the selector is at least 8 inches further back. I can overcome those obstacles but I have an added difficulty that the shift rod hits my headers when trying to go into 2 or 1. I was thinking of bending the rod a little but I'm going to just see if I can tweek the starting point of the shift rod to compensate. We'll see. Some parts details. I got the 3/8 x24TPI all thread at a bolt and screw place. I found a 3/8 x1/2 nylon bushing and some 3/8 stainless washers along with a 3/8 x2" clevis with 6 holes at home depot. I plan to use that for the pivot point for the shifter and weld it to the back of the plate that bolts to the transmission. I got a 3/8 Heim joint with bolt built in and a Heim joint that has an open eyelet along with several 3/8 grade 8 bolts and some nylon lock nuts. I also took the little piece off the C6 that bolts to the shift rod and uses a c-clip to hold it in place. I intend to use that to make my connection to the shift rod. Did a little reading up today as I hadn't thought about the fluid this tranny takes. It looks like Dexron III or Mercon. This tranny holds 5 gallons of this stuff with the deep pan. Looks like Walmart sells Valvoline for $14 a gallon. Thats better than the auto parts stores at $8 a quart.

 

The E4OD works best with MERCON V.

 

Hey Mark, I was hoping you would see this. I was having a hard time getting definitive info on the fluid. There seems to be a large camp that says the E4OD doesn't like the Mercon V fluid. Was there an older Mercon V that wasn't so good for them? Some mention of problems shifting while others of them burning up. I would have thought V would be backwards compatible, but don't want to risk the tranny.

 

MERCON V was reformulated in 2006. This was when MERCON was discontinued. The old MERCON V did bad things to the E4OD, the new one is compatible. I really wish they had renamed the new fluid instead of sticking with the MERCON V name. That would have made this much clearer.

 

Ok. So my final product is not as pretty as I started out with.... Mostly because after I had redone this thing 5 times and grinding and painting the other 4, I was kind of like screw it, I just want it to work. I will clean it up and paint it, but it is definitely functional now. I need to add some more washers for bushings to tighten up the linkage but it goes into every gear now, it did not even do that with the C6 because of the headers the shift rod would hit the header. The bracket is 2 pieces because of 2 reasons. First, is that is the piece I used for try #4 and second I needed a little offset closer to the transmission to move the shifter rod away from the header. If you dont have headers next to transmission, then you may not need it. The key to getting the shift selector detents to line up is maintaining the geometry of the c-6 shifter. So with that being said, the c-6 shifter is horizontal the E4OD is at about a 50 degree angle. So I drilled my initial holes at 3 1/4 inches then drew a radius I connected the shift rod from the selector at the horizontal, and then drilled the heim joint connection at about 50 degrees. This makes the heim rod parallel to the transmission pan and the heim joint to pivot hole at 3 1/4 also. You might notice the part that is connected to the shift rod is that little bushing that the c-6 uses, I just re-used it since it is slotted to fit inside the shift rod. The number of joints that must be tight yet pivot was the hardest thing to figure out, and I don't have all those perfect. Here's some pics. I'm just inside cooling off, so it's not a final yet.