So. I'm about to start this swap. I've got some goodies in now. I got my E4OD and Baumann controller in. I'm trying to get the last few things together to install it. I need to get a transmission jack, some 2" square tubing for the cross members. I would like to figure out the shifter before I install the transmission. I'm thinking helm joints, like the hotrod article, but I was recently working on my sons 2014 mustang, and noticed it had a small shifter cable. I would think a cable would be much simpler to adapt than a series of helm joints and levers. I need to source a dipstick tube and dipstick as well. Any real world advice is welcome..... And anyone close to San Antonio is welcome to come help.

 

Guess I better subscribe to this. Looks exciting!
Wonder how much extra trouble doing it in a 4wd would be...

Good luck with the install and getting across each bridge you come to.

Paul

 

I am also interested to see how this goes as I have a 460 and have been wondering about putting an overdrive behind it

 

Overdrive behind the 400 would be awesome... Would certainly lower RPMs at highway speeds. Interested to see how this turns out.

So quick question for us uneducated with the E4OD... what's the controller for?

 

Its because the E4OD is an electronic controlled transmission. The controller sets shift points and how the transmission reacts in certain conditions. It also gives you info related to the trans like gear it’s in temp of trans or when the TC locks.

 

It makes it shift. Without a controller the E4OD will only have fourth gear.

 

Neat - looking forward to seeing more progress on this.

 

So, anyone know what the proper U-joint size is for our drive shafts? I need to source a slip yoke that will work so that I minimize the rework I need done. Best I can tell the bearing end caps are 1.188" OD. I found a machine shop that sells 31 spline yokes in various sizes, so I want to order the right size so I don't need a funky sized U joint. I mean my driveshaft place can put whatever on, I guess, but I'm thinking if all they have to do is cut it down and balance it, it would be cheaper.

Or, will the C6 yoke work? I thought I had read something that it wouldn't but as I do research, it cross references that both are 31 splines.

 

I just recently did my rear driveshaft and documented it fairly well. Have a look https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post18128053

 

Alrighty then. Second attempt. I got almost all the way through this write up and it just deleted itself. So, I started on the swap today. I've been gathering parts here and there and needed some time to work on it. For reference the truck is a 1979 F-250 Camper special 2wd Longbed with a 400. I only worked on this truck about 4 hours today, So, with a little planning, and if you trust my advice, then you can pre-buy some things. So my truck has headers, if you don't have headers it might be even easier. So remove your C6 however you see fit. This post is going to be image heavy. Here is the C6 out.

Big gaping hole where the tranny used to be. Both braces out and passenger side header out.


Now for some size comparisons. The E4OD is a monster and the Derale 8qt pan makes it even bigger.



I cut off the ear on the front because Hotrod Magazine said to. It's really iffy on if you need to, I'll show you a pic with it in, but it doesn't hurt anything to take it off.

Here it is in place. The reasoning is that it hits the floor pan. It doesn't look like it would, but it is in the way of the header.

Here's the trans in place. So there are 2 different options I came across for the rear brace. The magazine says use the stock brace moved back notched 1/2 lower. I saw a posting of using 2x2x1/4 and welding a plate to the bottom then setting the 2x2 on top of the bottom rail of the frame, which I admit seems like a much more stable option. if a nut came loose. I used 2x2x1/4 and drilled the top for the E4OD transmission mount (some use the C6 mount).




The front of the transmission is a bit higher than the back. It helps a little with the driveline angle and since I have the deeper pan, I'm not too worried. Plus, there isn't much space between the top of the tranny and the tunnel. I need a little there and this works for me. So I put the front driveshaft on with about 1 inch or so from being bottomed out and measured from where the carrier bearing mounts to the carrier bearing.


For the coolant lines I am using AN6 and 3/8 hose.




Only problem is really the front line. It is too close to the floorpan, I need to get a 90 Degree fitting for it.

The front brace really doesn't need to be modified on the 2wd. If you have 4 wd, the brace is different. Here's the brace in place. I looked at the possibility of putting the 2x2 in and it does fit. I think 1 1/2 would be better. I'm going to leave mine alone as I don't expect to have to pull this trans out, and when I do I think I will be putting a coyote drivetrain next. Second pic has a piece of 2x2 so you can see how it fits.



Shifter is my next problem. I found this bracket on a 96 diesel with a cable and thought it might be a way to solve the shifter issue. Still working through that.

I really don't like the heim joint option and I think a shift cable is the way to go. I'm looking at a few Lokar options. Not cheap but seems very plausible. I'll update as I make more progress.


All in all I worked about 4 hours on it today. Feel free to ask any questions.

 

No questions yet. Just enjoying the party!

Thanks for the details and good pics.

Paul

 

Definitely a swap I'm curious about.

 

Holy smokes does that transmission pan stick down far. Was not expecting that, but looks like a really great way to keep temps wayyyyyyy down too.

Don't remember anyone asking this, but did you happen to take some 'before' data on the C6 @ highway speeds (rpms, tire size, etc)? And do you plan on posting up some 'after' data?

 

The E4OD should run a lot cooler. It has a locking torque converter, the C6 does not. An unlocked torque converter makes A TON more heat than a locked one.

 

I don't have very reliable before data because the C6 trans really never ran right since the rebuild. But it was running a little north of 3000 rpm @70 with 3.55 gears and stock tires.... 225-75R 15s (I believe but dont quote me on that). Aaron, you are right about that pan size. It hangs way down. It is very noticeable from the side, especially with the truck on the lift. But, given the added ability to dissapate the heat I'm good with it. It kind of matches my 36 gallon rear fuel tank now