FICM HELP!
I think you can look them up at Ficm repair.com they're really good.
Commonly when this happens, the ‘IDM fuse’ blows, but not always. When heat related (if it restarts and runs great until it warms up again), this is indicative of a damaged logic board. When this is the case, SOMETHING always caused it. Commonly this is a bad voltage regulator in the alternator (sometimes that only shows up on a test bench when the unit is physically hot to the touch). Another common cause is the truck being cranked in an attempt to purge the air out of the high pressure oil system following the replacing of an injector or other action that introduced air into the system (the FICM relay should be pulled in this process to prevent FICM damage).
We work on both sides of the FICM. Let me know if we can assist!
Hope this information helps! Thanks for the referral, VI!
Ed
Commonly when this happens, the ‘IDM fuse’ blows, but not always. When heat related (if it restarts and runs great until it warms up again), this is indicative of a damaged logic board. When this is the case, SOMETHING always caused it. Commonly this is a bad voltage regulator in the alternator (sometimes that only shows up on a test bench when the unit is physically hot to the touch). Another common cause is the truck being cranked in an attempt to purge the air out of the high pressure oil system following the replacing of an injector or other action that introduced air into the system (the FICM relay should be pulled in this process to prevent FICM damage).
We work on both sides of the FICM. Let me know if we can assist!
Hope this information helps! Thanks for the referral, VI!
Ed
Driving down the road and it just quit like I had turned the key off. I rolled to a stop and tried a restart. Turned the key on saw 48v and it
dropped like the water level in a bucket that has a large hole in it.
Pulled the FICM and found a hole through the power board and the IDM (50A) fuse was blown.
There was no warning at all.











