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So I purchased my first 6.0 today, a 06 f250 4x4 101k miles. It runs out great, shifts good. No blow by, antifreeze looks and smells clean, same for the oil, clean and no fuel smell. No leaks that I can see underneath it. It is bone stock, no tuner on it.Doesn't even have a ball or trailer hitch in the bed and never has. I live in the sticks so it takes me a while to get anywhere or back home. About a hr into the drive home the wrench light indicator on the dash came on. I freaked out. Truck kept running fine, no change at all. I love the truck, but am super leery of this 6.0 after hearing all problems with them. It also has a tbc fault codes keeps chiming intermittently, did some research on that before I bought it and that is linked to the trailer brakes from what I read. So I got it home and was gonna see if my el cheapo code reader would give me a code, went back out and restarted it and the wrench light went out. Any Info or places to start? Was thinking of doing the egr delete and upgrading the oil cooler right off the bat.
Have you confirmed the oil cooler is plugged up? If it is, another oil cooler might plug up also. You have to address the coolant issues and potential contaminants before doing anything (if in fact you have coolant issues).
Best thing to have is the ForScan Lite on your smartphone. It is a great code reader and gives you engine parameter information. You need an ELM327 OBDII adapter for it as well (around $40 total).
My advice is to not go aftermarket on the oil cooler unless you go w/ BulletProofDiesel products.
Not seeing a tuner does not mean it has never been tuned.
As Mark said "What coolant"?
The TCB fault without a trailer could be as simple as corrosion on
the back side of the plug where you plug the trailer in. Take a look and
if you see green fuzzies then buy a new plug and just replace it. Also
the harness on the truck side should be cleaned with contact cleaner.
You will find a small grub screw on the back holding the plug. Just
back it out and then press the release.
The coolant originally was the Ford Gold. It was/is susceptible to congealing and to dropping out solids.
The needed coolant is an EC-1 rated ELC coolant. A number of choices are available. Do some searches on it and post questions if you have them.
You determine a plugged oil cooler by looking at the coolant temperature (ECT) and the oil temperature (EOT) after the engine is FULLY warmed up, and driving a constant highway speed. It takes a good 20 minutes to fully warm up your engine btw. Then you need a monitoring device for reading engine parameters. That is why I mentioned ForScan. This device will tell you a lot about your engine (including ECT and EOT) and will read codes pretty thoroughly. So once you get the EOT and ECT readings at the appropriate conditions, the oil should not be more than 15 degrees hotter than the coolant. In fact, if you aren't towing or working the engine hard, IMO the temperature differential should be 10 degrees or less.
This temperature differential will tell you if your oil cooler is not working well (ie plugged up).
The coolant originally was the Ford Gold. It was/is susceptible to congealing and to dropping out solids.
The needed coolant is an EC-1 rated ELC coolant. A number of choices are available. Do some searches on it and post questions if you have them.
You determine a plugged oil cooler by looking at the coolant temperature (ECT) and the oil temperature (EOT) after the engine is FULLY warmed up, and driving a constant highway speed. It takes a good 20 minutes to fully warm up your engine btw. Then you need a monitoring device for reading engine parameters. That is why I mentioned ForScan. This device will tell you a lot about your engine (including ECT and EOT) and will read codes pretty thoroughly. So once you get the EOT and ECT readings at the appropriate conditions, the oil should not be more than 15 degrees hotter than the coolant. In fact, if you aren't towing or working the engine hard, IMO the temperature differential should be 10 degrees or less.
This temperature differential will tell you if your oil cooler is not working well (ie plugged up).
Lots and lots of threads on this subject!
say I drive my truck home from work, a hour drive, and I go to check eot and ect temps, do I do this while at idle or while.im driving? Also how do you know which antifreeze that you have? The color? Also how do you tell if you need a egr delete? What's a good way to do a antifreeze/radiator flush?
The coolant originally was the Ford Gold. It was/is susceptible to congealing and to dropping out solids.
The needed coolant is an EC-1 rated ELC coolant. A number of choices are available. Do some searches on it and post questions if you have them.
You determine a plugged oil cooler by looking at the coolant temperature (ECT) and the oil temperature (EOT) after the engine is FULLY warmed up, and driving a constant highway speed. It takes a good 20 minutes to fully warm up your engine btw. Then you need a monitoring device for reading engine parameters. That is why I mentioned ForScan. This device will tell you a lot about your engine (including ECT and EOT) and will read codes pretty thoroughly. So once you get the EOT and ECT readings at the appropriate conditions, the oil should not be more than 15 degrees hotter than the coolant. In fact, if you aren't towing or working the engine hard, IMO the temperature differential should be 10 degrees or less.
This temperature differential will tell you if your oil cooler is not working well (ie plugged up).
Lots and lots of threads on this subject!
You can't ALWAYS go by color, but if the coolant is a gold/yellow color then it is 90% sure that it is the Ford Gold coolant. Rotella ELC coolant from Tractor supply is a good coolant to use.
Please see the bold statement above for the driving conditions to test for a plugged oil cooler.
If the cooler is already plugged there are several options for cleaning. One option is to backflush the cooler. probably a good thing to try first. Do the searches on backflushing. Once that is done to the best extent possible, re-evaluate the cooler performance. If it is still plugged, you will probably need a chemical cleaning. Again - do some searches.
Someone else will have to answer about "needing" an EGR delete. I haven't done one and don't think it is particularly a "need". If you have an 05-07 truck and the EGR cooler is OEM, then you need to do something with it (IMO anyway). Replacing it with an EGR cooler from BulletProofDiesel is a perfectly fine solution. A delete would be fine also, but (again IMO) you would be wise to then install a tune that took that change into account when it calculates the fueling conditions.
You will find that the Advanced Search Tool is your best friend.
In the Search in Forum(s) under Diesel section click on the 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel.
That will help keep your search to this forum. The Tech Folder at the top of this forum
is a very good place to start for good info.
I am not trying to deter you from these other guys who know way more than me about these trucks, but I think you can also get the wrench light if your turbo veins are sticking. With that low mileage truck you may be needing to clean the turbo.
Which brings us back to you needing a better way to get codes and a way to monitor what the truck is doing.
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