Injector question
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 49
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From: South Orange County Cali
Air yes, cranking no.
Cody test applies max available shop air into the head where the high pressure oil line from the pump goes in to pressurize the oilway around the injectors while you listen very closely for gurgling noises indicating oil leaking past injector orings
Cody test applies max available shop air into the head where the high pressure oil line from the pump goes in to pressurize the oilway around the injectors while you listen very closely for gurgling noises indicating oil leaking past injector orings
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
Don't worry about hurting the engine with high air pressure, remember the hpop puts out 3k, most compressors 100-120. Just make sure your fittings are done well, a loose hose whipping around will hurt your face
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,345
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
@worldwidehavoc here is a link that might make your homework a bit easier.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...diy-style.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...diy-style.html
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: South Orange County Cali
@worldwidehavoc here is a link that might make your homework a bit easier.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...diy-style.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...diy-style.html
Thank you guys for your help and reassurance!. This is all a bit intimidating for me. Just a quick update, I took off the valve covers, both sides, just to look for any disconnects or abnormalities......nothing found. I proceeded to unplug each injector one by one and every time I did, the engine started to get sluggish. I ran the buzz test a few different times and every time #5 came back despite the loud and strong buzz. I wanted to take the solenoid off and replace it but the torque screws were too tight so....any suggestions regarding that? Also the 4th and 8th buzz sounded muffled so......any suggestions? Still getting the P1316 code. I uninstalled the boost fooler and popped a P1249 code....not sure if im being overly cautious but I dont want to put it back on until I get a backup ICP since i have the china one on it right now. Also, still getting the P1211 with WOT despite which ICP i have on it, ford or china version.......any thought, suggestions or advice fellas?! thanks!
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
I'm waiting for a log before I speak up. We can't describe everything that's going on in there - because we can't take everything into account without a log.
BARO, EBP, and MAP, before cranking the engine, then shut the key off and reset the list of PIDs to include:
MAP, EBP, FIPW, IPR, ICP, ECT, RPM, TC Slip (if auto transmission), and battery voltage. It's helpful to include a little normal driving, as well as a good long WOT run (like towing up a grade) - just make sure the engine is up to full operating temp before the tests.
When it comes to sensors and engine controls - OEM, baby. Too many trouble threads have started with cheap sensors, and we never hear about the problem again after a switch to OEM.
BARO, EBP, and MAP, before cranking the engine, then shut the key off and reset the list of PIDs to include:
MAP, EBP, FIPW, IPR, ICP, ECT, RPM, TC Slip (if auto transmission), and battery voltage. It's helpful to include a little normal driving, as well as a good long WOT run (like towing up a grade) - just make sure the engine is up to full operating temp before the tests.
When it comes to sensors and engine controls - OEM, baby. Too many trouble threads have started with cheap sensors, and we never hear about the problem again after a switch to OEM.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: South Orange County Cali
I'm waiting for a log before I speak up. We can't describe everything that's going on in there - because we can't take everything into account without a log.
BARO, EBP, and MAP, before cranking the engine, then shut the key off and reset the list of PIDs to include:
MAP, EBP, FIPW, IPR, ICP, ECT, RPM, TC Slip (if auto transmission), and battery voltage. It's helpful to include a little normal driving, as well as a good long WOT run (like towing up a grade) - just make sure the engine is up to full operating temp before the tests.
When it comes to sensors and engine controls - OEM, baby. Too many trouble threads have started with cheap sensors, and we never hear about the problem again after a switch to OEM.
BARO, EBP, and MAP, before cranking the engine, then shut the key off and reset the list of PIDs to include:
MAP, EBP, FIPW, IPR, ICP, ECT, RPM, TC Slip (if auto transmission), and battery voltage. It's helpful to include a little normal driving, as well as a good long WOT run (like towing up a grade) - just make sure the engine is up to full operating temp before the tests.
When it comes to sensors and engine controls - OEM, baby. Too many trouble threads have started with cheap sensors, and we never hear about the problem again after a switch to OEM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
Oh yeah. Besides the potential debris that can get in the valve train and make its way down into the oil sump, it will be one giant splotchy mess under the hood.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: South Orange County Cali
I'm waiting for a log before I speak up. We can't describe everything that's going on in there - because we can't take everything into account without a log.
BARO, EBP, and MAP, before cranking the engine, then shut the key off and reset the list of PIDs to include:
MAP, EBP, FIPW, IPR, ICP, ECT, RPM, TC Slip (if auto transmission), and battery voltage. It's helpful to include a little normal driving, as well as a good long WOT run (like towing up a grade) - just make sure the engine is up to full operating temp before the tests.
When it comes to sensors and engine controls - OEM, baby. Too many trouble threads have started with cheap sensors, and we never hear about the problem again after a switch to OEM.
BARO, EBP, and MAP, before cranking the engine, then shut the key off and reset the list of PIDs to include:
MAP, EBP, FIPW, IPR, ICP, ECT, RPM, TC Slip (if auto transmission), and battery voltage. It's helpful to include a little normal driving, as well as a good long WOT run (like towing up a grade) - just make sure the engine is up to full operating temp before the tests.
When it comes to sensors and engine controls - OEM, baby. Too many trouble threads have started with cheap sensors, and we never hear about the problem again after a switch to OEM.
Okay so here is the info as requested.....engine was at running temp.....no boost fooler and with the amazon icp, doesnt seem to matter what icp i have on there cuz it throws p1211 with either one. I uploaded the FORScan data as a zip file....hope I did that correctly.
Not sure where the P1316 code went either
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
1. ECT does nothing on an automatic, so don't freak out on that. The PID you need on an auto is Engine Oil Temperature (EOT), then you know how warm your ENGINE is.
2. You have a tune imbedded in your PCM... and a crappy one at that. You'd be better off to have that PCM flashed back to stock to get rid of most of your DTCs, and maybe buy a decent chip if you want performance.
3. I don't see any internal oil leaks, but I do see your FORScan is logging your ICP off by a decimal.
4. Now you can focus only on #5 electrical mystery.
If 5 buzzed and you can detect a difference when you unplug it, the IDM test circuit might have a flaw. Meaning... the engine might be fine, but the test circuit is lying to you. I almost never look at DTCs because false alarms happen. I run tests and look at logs. Have you done a Cylinder Contribution Test while logging your PERDELs? If the PERDEL on 5 doesn't pop high, then I would be inclined to button it up, roll on, and stop looking for trouble.
2. You have a tune imbedded in your PCM... and a crappy one at that. You'd be better off to have that PCM flashed back to stock to get rid of most of your DTCs, and maybe buy a decent chip if you want performance.
3. I don't see any internal oil leaks, but I do see your FORScan is logging your ICP off by a decimal.
4. Now you can focus only on #5 electrical mystery.
If 5 buzzed and you can detect a difference when you unplug it, the IDM test circuit might have a flaw. Meaning... the engine might be fine, but the test circuit is lying to you. I almost never look at DTCs because false alarms happen. I run tests and look at logs. Have you done a Cylinder Contribution Test while logging your PERDELs? If the PERDEL on 5 doesn't pop high, then I would be inclined to button it up, roll on, and stop looking for trouble.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
As for Dorman products, I guess the VC gasket with integrated injector UVCH is OK - but I opted for brand new OEM UVCH from Riffraff Diesel. The fit was really tight, and they modified the clips to hold better.
As for the sensors and controls - OEM baby. Anything less will have you parked on this forum, learning more about the truck and spending more money than you really wanted to.
As for the sensors and controls - OEM baby. Anything less will have you parked on this forum, learning more about the truck and spending more money than you really wanted to.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: South Orange County Cali
1. ECT does nothing on an automatic, so don't freak out on that. The PID you need on an auto is Engine Oil Temperature (EOT), then you know how warm your ENGINE is.
2. You have a tune imbedded in your PCM... and a crappy one at that. You'd be better off to have that PCM flashed back to stock to get rid of most of your DTCs, and maybe buy a decent chip if you want performance.
3. I don't see any internal oil leaks, but I do see your FORScan is logging your ICP off by a decimal.
4. Now you can focus only on #5 electrical mystery.
If 5 buzzed and you can detect a difference when you unplug it, the IDM test circuit might have a flaw. Meaning... the engine might be fine, but the test circuit is lying to you. I almost never look at DTCs because false alarms happen. I run tests and look at logs. Have you done a Cylinder Contribution Test while logging your PERDELs? If the PERDEL on 5 doesn't pop high, then I would be inclined to button it up, roll on, and stop looking for trouble.
2. You have a tune imbedded in your PCM... and a crappy one at that. You'd be better off to have that PCM flashed back to stock to get rid of most of your DTCs, and maybe buy a decent chip if you want performance.
3. I don't see any internal oil leaks, but I do see your FORScan is logging your ICP off by a decimal.
4. Now you can focus only on #5 electrical mystery.
If 5 buzzed and you can detect a difference when you unplug it, the IDM test circuit might have a flaw. Meaning... the engine might be fine, but the test circuit is lying to you. I almost never look at DTCs because false alarms happen. I run tests and look at logs. Have you done a Cylinder Contribution Test while logging your PERDELs? If the PERDEL on 5 doesn't pop high, then I would be inclined to button it up, roll on, and stop looking for trouble.
As for Dorman products, I guess the VC gasket with integrated injector UVCH is OK - but I opted for brand new OEM UVCH from Riffraff Diesel. The fit was really tight, and they modified the clips to hold better.
As for the sensors and controls - OEM baby. Anything less will have you parked on this forum, learning more about the truck and spending more money than you really wanted to.
As for the sensors and controls - OEM baby. Anything less will have you parked on this forum, learning more about the truck and spending more money than you really wanted to.
So regarding the PERDELs, is this something that has to be done professionally or can FORScan do this?! I had to google what that was. I plan on getting oem UVCH soon and a couple of other things like air intake. What’s your opinion of that boost fooler I have uninstalled? Should I leave it off or reinstall it?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
Likes: 50
Running cct test can be had by your AE. Irun mine with CarGaugePro. Wont run on TorquePro(mine dont anyway). Dont no about ForScan
Test needs to have engine at operating temp and if your trucks' anything other than a Ca model with 2-relay units, make sure the AIH relay is active. CCT wont run without it
Test needs to have engine at operating temp and if your trucks' anything other than a Ca model with 2-relay units, make sure the AIH relay is active. CCT wont run without it
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: South Orange County Cali
Running cct test can be had by your AE. Irun mine with CarGaugePro. Wont run on TorquePro(mine dont anyway). Dont no about ForScan
Test needs to have engine at operating temp and if your trucks' anything other than a Ca model with 2-relay units, make sure the AIH relay is active. CCT wont run without it
Test needs to have engine at operating temp and if your trucks' anything other than a Ca model with 2-relay units, make sure the AIH relay is active. CCT wont run without it
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,345
Likes: 5,941
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
I believe this part from @Riffraff Performance does the same thing, but I am not sure. The description says it eliminates the code, but I am not sure how that happens with the OEM harness plug being out of the loop.
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/air-i...de-eliminator/
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: South Orange County Cali
You can put a 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor between the two pins of the harness connector.
I believe this part from @Riffraff Performance does the same thing, but I am not sure. The description says it eliminates the code, but I am not sure how that happens with the OEM harness plug being out of the loop.
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/air-i...de-eliminator/
I believe this part from @Riffraff Performance does the same thing, but I am not sure. The description says it eliminates the code, but I am not sure how that happens with the OEM harness plug being out of the loop.
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/air-i...de-eliminator/
Awesome. Thanks!