Think, your just missing the relay and black gnd cable oh and pos cable from relay to aih.
Install relay and the pos cable thats taped up in the loom along with blue ring terminal end and orange ring wire, to the relay

 

I was thinking about it.....then I just pulled out my credit card and bought the delete billet and eliminator wire from riff raff. I got them mainly so I can run a CCT and check out the injectors....then I'll see if any of them need to be changed. So any ideas if I should tune the EX or return it to stock? Also, how do you do either?

 

This guy is a very reliable and trustworthy PCM/IDM tech.

https://www.dieseltechchatt.com/pages/about-d-t-c

 

We're working on an Excursion here? If so you probably (depending on year) have a GPCM and no GPR relay, just like my CA F350. In which case the AIH delete wire will do you no good. Been there, done that. But no worries, that is a soft code, no SES light.

Please post up a pic of the AIH/GPR area so we have a better idea what's going on. Plus fill in what info you have on the truck in your signature.

Oil temp needs to be above 140* for PCM to switch to "yes I'm warmed up" mode.

If there is no chip on the PCM (you need to pull it to verify) then the tune is flashed to the PCM. You can either re-flash the PCM or get a chip/tuner for it, which will override the tune on the PCM. Which is a whole 'nuther discussion.

 

Oil temp runs pretty close to what you would expect out of engine coolant temp. I know the tune changes behavior at specific temperatures during warmup, starting with subdued performance to protect the engine. At the transition across 100 degrees F EOT, you hear the engine "break its voice" like a teen boy in puberty. Once you cross the threshold of about 140 degrees F, the tune allows you full throttle - but the engine isn't going to deliver full power just yet. Once you get into the 180-210 F range, your engine has had its second cup-O-jo hit bottom.

As for the decimal point, it just means I had to shift gears in my head when reading the data. I see you have what looks to be a very slow OBDII adapter - that's just my first guess. I have a very fast adapter, and I don't get the sampling spikes in my data like I saw in your FORScan log. There is nothing for you to do, unless you want to share what OBDII adapter you have, then we can determine if a step up would prove beneficial.

Boost fooler should do nothing at all for a stock truck. It limits the boost reading to 22 PSI to prevent defueling - and at 26-27 PSI, an overboost code. Allegedly, a stock truck can't defuel, let alone overboost. Install a 4" exhaust and AIS intake, do the red line and 7-turn mod - then you you can sneak past 22 PSI with a stock tune and reach defuel at 2800 RPM with high boost - but that's still not going to throw an overboost code. A "hot" tune can make the truck "appear" to defuel, but it's not a true defuel - defuel has a whole different profile on the log than what I see in yours.

As for the tune, flashing the PCM to stock should resolve a lot of woes. If you want a chip, I'm a huge fan of Hydra because tunes can be added or modified via the internet - but that's a written invitation to raid your wallet by way of Powerstroke Mod Syndrome (or PMS). I remember when I was getting a lot of pressure to chip, and I wanted to keep it stock - like you have expressed. I told these pressure appliers it would cost $2000 to chip, and they said I was crazy. I said "If I chip - don't I need a 4" exhaust, bigger intake, and other unforeseen work to make it work right?" There was no disagreement. Well... I was was wrong. $20,000 later, I finally had the truck just the way I liked it - 2 years before the black-ice rollover. I sought out my next truck just the way I like it, with exception of some transmission upgrades.

If you upgrade - get a rider on your insurance.

 

Thank you! I will look at this later today.

Yes, it is a 2002 Excursion 7.3 in CA. The only reason why i bought a AIH eliminator wire is because i cannot run the cct unless i have this code taken care of. I'll be filling in my signature after my cup of coffee. Ill pull the PCM later this week or today to verify.

Admittedly, i'm using a bluetooth OBD2 adapter from bafx 3127.

I would love nothing to install some mods like an exhaust for example, but the united states of california is really DUMB and i cannot find a a "CA state legal exhaust that i like that will not interfere emissions.....unless i register it out of state. What's a "7-turn-mod"? I'm just curious.

Yeah I would like to keep it stock for now but to play devil's advocate, am I seeing it correctly that riff raff has hydra for $299??? Also, regarding this truck being tuned before, would that cause the transmission to hard shift constantly into 1st gear when I give it some pedal (not a lot)? Or could chipping adjust this the shifting harshness? Whenever I come off a complete stop and get going, there's a bump into 2nd gear, it doesn't go away and there is no slippage in that gear or any other gear. All other gear work and engage good. The previous owner (who I now deem an idiot for telling me this truck had never been tuned) had old me the trans was rebuilt a couple of year ago with a heavier duty torque plate and other stuff. He showed me the receipt that I cannot find anymore but i'm still looking for it.

THANK YOU everyone for your input and help

 

I also went with the OEM UVCH. I have read that the Dorman is OK also but that the glowplug connections are not as stout as OEM.

Intake and exhaust are not an issue. As long as you have a commercially available filter on the turbo intake you are good to go. The only caveat is that you need to have the red and green air lines hooked up.

For the exhaust it is open season after the catalyst. I had an CA 4R100 model so there was no cat (NON-CATALYST sticker under the hood). I had a muffler so don't know if that's a point of contention but my shop only cared that it exited behind the cab. I've attached the latest copy I have of the smog testing requirements.

If you find a friendly/accommodating shop/tech then there are more options open to you. The only thing to keep in mind is that you never know when that will go away and you are left find another way to pass smog (happened to me).

The wastegate controller has an adjustment. Remove the e-clip from the wastegate arm (be very careful not to lose the clip when it pops off), loosen the mounting bolts for the controller, apply some air to the diaphragm of the controller, lift the arm off the pin, tighten the adjustment 7 turns, re-install by reversing the way you took the arm off.

I believe it can. I'm not too hip on the magic slushbox but I have read that beefier torque converters would require a call to the tuner for adjustments. I know that for my modified valvebody I had to make sure that I specifically mentioned that as standard tuning would make adjustments to firm up the shifts, which would be very harsh with a modified valvebody.

 

Exit, stage left highjack

What Brian mentioned..
"If you find a friendly/accommodating shop/tech then there are more options open to you. The only thing to keep in mind is that you never know when that will go away and you are left find another way to pass smog (happened to me)."
This is my fear. When will the other states start to follow suit..hence, my hesitation to the T4 route.

 

So while I wait for my AIH parts to come in, I talked to my wife and she agreed either to get my pcm reflashed by Ford for $159 or............to open pandora's box and get it chipped. So I'm looking into riff raff Hydra. I'm open to suggestions. The point of doing something is to get a new tune (either stock or better) on my pcm so clear out some gremlins and then to start slapping on some mods here and there. Is there a tuner that I can control my transmission shifting so its not so harsh?!

 

If the PCM is bad, a chip isn't going to help. Need to fix that first.

 

Its been mentioned that I have a bad tune on the pcm and suggested that I get it reflashed

 

It's not a PCM thing, it's a tune thing.

worldwidehavoc - As for the previous owner... not everybody has had their chance at the wheel behind multiple 7.3Ls, and these rigs are old enough to be 3rd and 4th-party owners. He might not know the complete history of the truck, nor know the difference between a stock and tuned truck. I can tell you the tune is peppy - but it wastes fuel, makes a lot of EGTs, and doesn't give the full 0-80 acceleration available. If you flash to stock, the engine will be happier - but you won't. You'll be pissed at me for having you do something to the truck that made the truck feel sluggish. If I have to choose between sluggish or harsh on the engine - I choose sluggish. If you chip - you can get more pep than you have now without undue strain on the engine (with a proper tune selection). BEFORE you chip, might I suggest you click on the "custom tunes" link in my signature.

The chip completely overrides the PCM tune, so that hot tune will no longer matter - as long as the chip is in there. As for the shifts, the tune has full control of the transmission's behavior - within its mechanical limitations.

My previous truck had a HD 4R100 with an upgraded torque converter and the canned tunes I bought slammed my neck on every shift. Enter a custom tuner, and my shifts are Cadillac smooth - empty and while towing my boat.

 

I think I got this confused with another thread I was reading is why I made that remark. Anyway going on vacation tomorrow. Day late but can't wait.

 

Lmao. It’s all good. I’m just excited because I’m getting my hydra chip tomorrow.

 

You will love the Hydra, now to get Cody to do a live tuning session and you will hit the next big step forward.