Ok installing energy suspension rubbers for my rad core.Upper/lower and three large washers and then large bolt and washer drops in from top of Rad cor,,,,,,,,,,,,My question is do I use the Three large washer as shims ,or am I just using to level out the rad core,or do I just sit the rad core right on the upper rubber and bolt down loose any help my appreciated

 

I believe the 3 washers (00145) are to shim/level? So between the core support and on top of the bushing, on top of the frame?

 

Great pic Rich ,talked to a friend that restored his bump,said you wont know until you set the cab to line up fenders,any way your pic shows the three large washer /shims so IL start with them ,,,you back in the States,hope all went well.Thankyou

 

Remember settled or rusted cab mounts and bad bushings, can start the cab to the rest of the fitted on parts "gap" chase to be a rough one. The cowl is fixed, so the cowl to fender gap is where the fun starts. Then the front fenders with core support and grill fun. Then the door hinge (door pins good?) gap. And the "dent line" always is a factor. And then the hood to fenders PITA gap.

Hood adj 101: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15817945

 

looking to set cab on chassis this weekend,long time coming

 

It does take a lot of patience sometimes! Lol

If you're starting from scratch or close to scratch:
Front clip is off or sitting loose.
Check or redo cab mounts to make sure they are good, then you can go ahead with the rest.
After cab mounts you will check that your door hinges have no play.
Now you can adjust your door gap to the cab as the adjustment is in the door hinge.
For making the vertical door edge gap consistent between rear-of-door-and-pillar AND horizontal gap of top-of-door-to-roof-of-cab, the fender has to be off so the door hinge bolts going into the cab are accessible(because the fender blocks them otherwise) and can be loosened, so the door can be moved rearward or forward as well as up and down, to gain consistent gap all around while trying to keep the door cove lower than the outer cowl, so that the fender cove will line up to it later.
When this gap is set and that set of hinge bolts tightened, then you can set inner fenders between cab and radiator support, leaving inner fender bolts loose, then you can set outer fenders on to line up rad support and cowl mounts, and see how the gap looks between the fender and door, this is where a lot of adjusting can happen of the 4 fenders and rad support and adding washers between rad support and body bushing mount, and maybe bending that middle fender bolt tab by front of door to ease line up.
The door doesn't move forward, rearward, or up and down, at this point as that's adjusted already.
What the door can do now is be moved away from cab or be tucked closer to the cab with the door striker and door hinge bolts that are bolted into the door, so mark your vertical position to keep that while you adjust on the door hinge in or out to be flush with rear-of-door-to-cab, and front-of-door-to-fender, while also bring both inner/outer fender to where they need to be vertically, horizontally, and flush.

And then it's time for the grille after that, more fun! lol

And then it's time for the hood after that, more fun! lol

And then the hood latch lol

You don't need spacers between door hinges and cab, or between door hinges and door, there is enough adjustment built in to it already to get door to line up. (unless you're dealing with daily driver and don't want to loosen fender, then go ahead and redneck away lol)

 

460 power awesome response, yes I did have doors then fenders out of sequence. You are correct.

 

Thankyou 460 power,will be reading this one ,slowly as it comes together