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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck

Ford truck information and then some....

 
  #121  
Old 10-30-2015, 02:30 PM
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You are fairly new, so welcome to FTE. This thread is not really the thread or place or ask such question's, but more of a information storage area. I will try to answer your anyway.

Ball park and according to most web sites a stock set up truck can fit 32" to 33x12.50x 15's, a 4" lift you can fit 35's and 6" is 36's to 38's, you might have to trim a bit of the front fender, front part bottom lip.

Try to use the Advanced Search (not the big box at the top), but the drop down advanced search on the blue User CP line. There are a ton of threads that discuss F100 and F150 lift and tire fitment set ups.

Or better yet make a new personal thread about you and your truck. Introduce yourself and your rig, discuss your plans, post some pics and do not forget to join your state chapter also.

Louisiana Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
 
  #122  
Old 11-02-2015, 09:41 PM
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I'm new to the forum and can't really find the seemingly correct place to post a question so will try here and hope for the best and beg forgiveness if I'm incorrect. I picked up a 75-F-250 with a 460, C-6 and am attempting to figure out what's missing (am enclosing a photo to illustrate my problem.) Some thing has been removed from the wiring on the driver's side. There is a 4-pole plug-in (unplugged) a void in the area where something has been removed, and then the wiring (which has been cut) continues to hook up to the headlight and signal light. What's missing ?? Thanks in advance..ill manners.
 
  #123  
Old 11-02-2015, 11:24 PM
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Welcome to FTE, when you have a question just make a new thread by clicking on the new thread tab on the top L/H side at the top of this forum list.

What you are missing is the other half of that plug that connects to the square 4 pole and it is how the truck/power gets to the headlight and turning signal light on the dvrs side.

Time to make a local junk yard lap and ck any and all 73-79 trucks, either side will work.
 
  #124  
Old 11-10-2015, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250 View Post
Proof that the vin can be located on the frame.
Is that the only spot on the chassis rail to find a VIN? I read somewhere there is maybe one on the same side rail (and still on top of the rail) further back under the cab??
 
  #125  
Old 11-10-2015, 07:19 AM
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Yes there is a rumor that it is also stamped on the top part of the passenger side frame rail. About in line with the seat passenger side slider rail fwd mount bolts.???

I have a stripped 79 frame and do not have either VI#?
 
  #126  
Old 11-11-2015, 06:12 AM
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Cheers. I will endeavour to check mine out. I'm down under so when you say passenger I gotta convert to drivers. Lol.
 
  #127  
Old 11-11-2015, 07:10 AM
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Yes forgot about that part, so I should say that if in Australia the stamp on the frame rail will be on the drivers side. lol mate.
 
  #128  
Old 11-11-2015, 07:22 AM
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?side passengers the is side drivers the Australia in saying you Are
 
  #129  
Old 11-11-2015, 07:28 AM
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Ok lets not get get all bogged down in a 1/16" of mud like a chebbie on this.

WallyS is in Gold Coast, Australia so his steering wheel is on the right side of the truck. Or the passenger side to us, if the truck is IN the US. lol

Who's on 1st?
 
  #130  
Old 11-18-2015, 10:45 PM
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So a fellow member said the soap stone marks on the floor pan are where to cut to look for the vi# on top of the passenger side rail. And the soap stone on the top frame rail is the vin#'s.

And here is the eccentric cam you need to get the fuel pump under.
 
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  #131  
Old 11-24-2015, 05:59 PM
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Hood adjustment 101...

To get the back of the hood down to line the cowl, loosen the 2 very back bolts on the hinge flange where it bolts to the inner fender and then have some one push the hood up standing in front of the truck while you tighten them back down, not a lot, might take a couple of movements to get it where you want it. Close the hood slow, DONT SLAM IT, watch the back while it close's.

Next, to get the gap the same all the way across, you loosen the hood bolts on only the side you want to move, if your closing the gap, tap the back of the hinge arm with your ratchet handle and the hood will move on its own, if you want to widen the gap, loosen the bolts and pull upon the back of the hood and tap the hinge arm on the front side and the hood will slide forward.

Always close the hood slow after any adjustments to make sure its not gonna hit any where. To tighten the front of the hood, there are 2 bolts on the hood latch that is slotted, you can see the slots if you look, loosen them and tap the latch down, if you go to much the hood wont latch, bring it back up.

Often the hood sits up above the cowl, to fix this adjust the hinge where it mounts to the inner fender. Up at the front, and down at the rear. Reverse procedure to raise the rear of the hood. The hinges should be lubed with a good lubricant to operate properly or your alignment won't work no matter how long you play with it.

You should be able to almost throw the hood open with the flick of a finger. I like to remove the latch at first so I can easily swing the hood open and closed. If the rear of the hood is sticking up when it is closed you actually adjust the hood to open MORE. Either by lifting the front of the bracket or lowering the rear of the bracket. Sometimes both in combination. The center bolt acts as a pivot.

Once that is done, and it can take a while to get everything nice and the gaps decent you then set the latch height. If the hood is maxed out forward and is still interfering with the cowl you'll then need to loosen the inner fender to firewall horn bolts, inner fender bolt and radiator core support and move everything forward.

If you're hood is high compared to the cowl loosen the middle bolt and the rear bolt, then open the hood and it will push (rotate) the hinge down and towards the cowl.. Look for the clean marks that the bolt head will leave behind for reference.
 
  #132  
Old 11-30-2015, 09:00 PM
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I want to say a HUGE thank you to Rich for all the help that he has helped us with when it comes to our 1978 that has become just like the house on the movie Money Pit (lol). Husband put the 2b carb that we drove and got from Rich and now would you believe that the beast actually will start???? Yep, Rich that carb has made that truck start and stay running. Thank you so so much for everything. I will get that piece in the mail by the end of the week.
 
  #133  
Old 11-30-2015, 09:24 PM
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Glad to hear the carb fixed the starting issue, guess I should of put IT on the blue truck?
 
  #134  
Old 12-19-2015, 03:35 PM
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A few new bits of info...
 
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  #135  
Old 01-04-2016, 01:10 PM
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A very big thank you to Jeremy Kamutzki for this step by step.

You can easily test the starter solenoid and the (ignition) switch.

First, the switch. You'll need a partner and a multimeter.
-There is a 'hot' (12V +ve) wire that is off (0V) when the key is off and on (12V) when you have the key in the start position. You just need to check if you are indeed consistently getting 12V when the key is in start. So, multimeter with one lead on ground and one lead on the wire from the key. This should be a thin (16GA?) wire coming into the 3rd post on the solenoid. Side note: Essentially a solenoid is simply a relay that uses a low current 'switch' voltage to create an electromagnet that closes a switch inside and completes the high current circuit, making the starter spin. Once you confirm that there is indeed 12V coming from the key when it's in the 'start' position, we've ruled out that the key switch is bad.

Next, the solenoid. Like I said, the solenoid is just a switch that uses low current to complete a high-current circuit (the starter). It can go bad without warning, and it's entirely possible and likely that if it's bad, it's a complete fluke that it happened after your overheating event. So, to test the solenoid (after you've confirmed you're getting power from the switch to the 3rd terminal on the solenoid) you simply take a jumper cable and clamp one end onto one side of the solenoid (12V in from battery) and touch the other end of the cable to the other post of the solenoid (12V out to starter). The engine should immediately turn over (expect a few sparks, no big deal).

If the key checks out good, and the solenoid test makes the engine spin over, then the solenoid is bad.

If the key checks out bad, you can verify solenoid operation by taking a small bit of wire and going from the +ve terminal of the battery and touching it to the 3rd terminal on the solenoid (where the key goes in) and it should energize the solenoid and turn over the engine.
 

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