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'64 223 Coolant Capacity

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Old Jun 18, 2019 | 12:32 PM
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'64 223 Coolant Capacity

Long story short, owners manual calls for 13.5 qts of coolant in my 64 223, but that quantity is not fitting in there. Having to replace the radiator now, so I'm going to need to refill it again and not trying to waste money messing around with the 50/50 mixture.

What is the actual capacity of the 223, excluding the radiator? I know there are several different radiators out there, which is why I ask this question this way. If it's of any help, I'm replacing with a 3 row standard 2" radiator.

Regardless, if I can just get the capacity for the motor, I will figure out what the radiator can hold and add that to the total amount.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2019 | 12:42 PM
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If I have had a cooling system completely apart I always fill it with plain water and run it to make sure there aren't any leaks before I fill it with anti freeze. That way you know how much it holds and it isn't dribbling coolant in the floor. Just keep track of how much water you put in then if there aren't any leaks drain 1/2 of it out and put in anti freeze.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2019 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Crop Duster
If I have had a cooling system completely apart I always fill it with plain water and run it to make sure there aren't any leaks before I fill it with anti freeze. That way you know how much it holds and it isn't dribbling coolant in the floor. Just keep track of how much water you put in then if there aren't any leaks drain 1/2 of it out and put in anti freeze.
Sounds good. That was the best idea I had as well assuming I couldnt find the info out. Was planning on running 100% distilled water in it initially anyways as a flush. Worst case scenario, that method should get me where I need to be. Thanks.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2019 | 05:55 AM
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Just thought I'd bump this as I'm about to be doing this either this afternoon or tomorrow.

Yes, I can always see how much it takes to fill with water, drain half, and refill with with antifreeze. But, I question if I "truly" have all the coolant drained from the motor now, or whether there are pockets of coolant caught somewhere, so this is why a spec would be nice.

If not, I'll make something work.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2019 | 07:53 PM
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Just refilled it again and it maxed out at 2 gallons this time. Last time it maxed out at 3 gallons. I have no idea what ratio I should be mixing this in... something that should be really simple apparently has not been.

Looks like it will be trial and error with multiple testings until gets right unless someone has a spec.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2019 | 09:41 PM
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There are block drains along the pan rail that will let out what may be in the block.

Also, I have never worried about "how much" as opposed to "is it full??"

Newer radiators are of different design, which can affect capacity. Yours may be the V8 radiator, which also affects capacity.

Cosmo
 
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Old Jun 21, 2019 | 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by cosmofennema
There are block drains along the pan rail that will let out what may be in the block.

Also, I have never worried about "how much" as opposed to "is it full??"

Newer radiators are of different design, which can affect capacity. Yours may be the V8 radiator, which also affects capacity.

Cosmo
Do you by chance know how many block drains there are? I will take a look at that this evening. The radiator was replaced with what I would consider the exact same one as before. Both have identical measurements, within a 1/8" of each other. Both have equivalent "tanks" on top along with both being 3 row radiators. If it had been a pint difference, or even a quart, I wouldn't have questioned it much - but a 50% difference made me really start to question stuff.

I dont know how much I trust the accuracy of the ball float testers to check for coolant mixtures, but I do have one. I've never used one to dial in a mixture, only ever used them to verify that the mixture I had made was correct. Worst case, I suppose I can use that to get it figured out. Draining the block and refilling again seems like the best first next step to take.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2019 | 04:17 PM
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Not on a 223. However, they are more than obvious, always pipe plugs, usually square heads.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2019 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by cosmofennema
Not on a 223. However, they are more than obvious, always pipe plugs, usually square heads.
Sounds good. I'll be out there shortly to replace the starter so I can hopefully crank her for the first time in 30 years tomorrow. Went to start it last weekend after literally replacing every single part on the truck along with all seals, excluding the starter and radiator. Figures, go to crank her last Saturday and get a slow crank with smoke pouring from the starter. That's also when I found the leak in the radiator.

I'll take a look when I'm in the garage soon and pop em open. Thanks again
 
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Old Jun 21, 2019 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Mearntain
I dont know how much I trust the accuracy of the ball float testers to check for coolant mixtures, but I do have one. I've never used one to dial in a mixture, only ever used them to verify that the mixture I had made was correct. Worst case, I suppose I can use that to get it figured out. Draining the block and refilling again seems like the best first next step to take.
If the engine hasn't started in 30 years I'd be inclined to run straight water. It's mid June, so freezing temperatures aren't normally a problem. If there are any leaks it's better to find out with pure water, less of a mess, and won't trash bearings right away if it gets into the crankcase. When it's running right, then drain the radiator and fill with glycol. It should be roughly half radiator half block.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2019 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
If the engine hasn't started in 30 years I'd be inclined to run straight water. It's mid June, so freezing temperatures aren't normally a problem. If there are any leaks it's better to find out with pure water, less of a mess, and won't trash bearings right away if it gets into the crankcase.
That's the plan for now and currently have her filled with distilled water. Was probably going to drain it tonight using the block plugs so I can determine the capacity, and refill with the extra water I have and run it like that a little bit before draining it again and actually filling with antifreeze. How long do you think i should run the straight water in there before changing it out?

Asking in the sense of kinda like my motor oil, was planning running that for a couple hundred miles for this initial start up, and then changing that out. You think running it that long before draining the water would be too long? Not as in will the plain water damage it, but with the particulates it's going to pick up throughout the block.
 

Last edited by Mearntain; Jun 21, 2019 at 04:59 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old Jun 21, 2019 | 07:46 PM
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I wouldn't leave 100% H2O in there any longer than just to make the initial startup tests. It will rust up really fast without the corrosion inhibitors.

What's the total capacity, 4 gallons? Just drain the radiator and install 2 gallons pure Prestone or Xerex or whatever. Let it fast idle for a few minutes, run the heater. That will be 50/50 or near enough. Check freeze protection, go for a beer.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2019 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
I wouldn't leave 100% H2O in there any longer than just to make the initial startup tests. It will rust up really fast without the corrosion inhibitors.

What's the total capacity, 4 gallons? Just drain the radiator and install 2 gallons pure Prestone or Xerex or whatever. Let it fast idle for a few minutes, run the heater. That will be 50/50 or near enough. Check freeze protection, go for a beer.
No clue what the capacity is, wish someone knew that could chime in. Havent been able to drain the block yet. Owners manual calls for 13.5 qts. I managed to get about 11.5 qts in the first time last weekend. Yesterday when i filled it, i only was able to get a little under 8 qts in there.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2019 | 10:20 PM
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Doh!! Guess I should have read through the first post again. The earlier advice about the block drain plugs, wouldn't be a bad plan to remove those, they are pipe thread? Hit them with a good penetrating oil for a few days and shock them with a hammer a few times along the way for easy removal.There will be a lot of rust and scale built up, poke inside the hole with an awl and stand back.
 
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