FOMOCO PHASERS
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FOMOCO PHASERS
accumulating replacement parts for my 5.4 timing component flip, i have ordered 3 FOMOCO OEM Phasers so far and the relucter plates have wobbled on two of them, have ordered 1 standard products phaser which looks exactly the same in material and manufacture as Fomoco and the relucter plate wobbled on that also,My question is can i use a phaser with a relucter plate wobble without fear of it coming apart someday and destroying my engine
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: San Antonio, Texas
?????
Wow... I don't think I would. I know the Phaser relucter plate is just rivited with small rivets and the bolt kinda sandwiches everything together. But I'd be nervous about it being loose. Read up carefully before using a NON-OEM. There are sure lots of bad cases with various ones.
Wow... I don't think I would. I know the Phaser relucter plate is just rivited with small rivets and the bolt kinda sandwiches everything together. But I'd be nervous about it being loose. Read up carefully before using a NON-OEM. There are sure lots of bad cases with various ones.
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this is the problem, so far i,ve purchased 3 FOMOCO Genuine OEM phasers and 2 of them had relucter plate issues only one was defect free, they all were BN in FOMOCO OEM packaging,i bought one standard products phaser and that one had a loose plate also. so what gives, are Ford,s suppliers QA personel slipping ? and where do i go for a Ford Genuine OEM phaser thats good to go right out the box
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,436
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From: Virginia
By any chance, did you order the Motorcraft parts from an Amazon supplier?
There have been a lot of cases where knock-off parts are sold as OEM. Not saying this is the case, but a possibility.
When I order OEM I get parts from Blue Springs Ford online. Prices are reasonable all things considered, and usually not much more than aftermarket.
Full disclosure - I don't work for or get benefits them.
There have been a lot of cases where knock-off parts are sold as OEM. Not saying this is the case, but a possibility.
When I order OEM I get parts from Blue Springs Ford online. Prices are reasonable all things considered, and usually not much more than aftermarket.
Full disclosure - I don't work for or get benefits them.
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By any chance, did you order the Motorcraft parts from an Amazon supplier?
There have been a lot of cases where knock-off parts are sold as OEM. Not saying this is the case, but a possibility.
When I order OEM I get parts from Blue Springs Ford online. Prices are reasonable all things considered, and usually not much more than aftermarket.
Full disclosure - I don't work for or get benefits them.
There have been a lot of cases where knock-off parts are sold as OEM. Not saying this is the case, but a possibility.
When I order OEM I get parts from Blue Springs Ford online. Prices are reasonable all things considered, and usually not much more than aftermarket.
Full disclosure - I don't work for or get benefits them.
yes, i did order one from an amazon supplier, but sent it back, the relucter plate was very loose. the rest came from ebay suppliers, one was as expexted for $215, one i shipped back and the other was acceptable but i will break out my wire feed and tack that relucter plate before install, it will ease my mind some.wish i had a tig welder, Id fuse it. I will dot down your supplier and reference them, Thanx for the Advice and the forewarning, Tony
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Joined: Aug 2018
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Why not just order the entire kit?
Get some new VCT's, and the HV oil pump, plus your valve cover gaskets and be done with it. Unless there is a problem in the top end outside of the timing kit, that is all you need.
Also, never use ebay. It's a haven for scammers and Amazon does use private sellers but everything is backed by Amazon and 99% of the sellers have Amazons return policy, and even if you get an issue, all you have to do is contact Amazon. I've got such a good history with them that as soon as I ship a product back and the code is scanned at UPS, they refund me that night. I have not used ebay since 2005 or earlier. Get Amazon Prime and buy some truck parts
Get some new VCT's, and the HV oil pump, plus your valve cover gaskets and be done with it. Unless there is a problem in the top end outside of the timing kit, that is all you need.
Also, never use ebay. It's a haven for scammers and Amazon does use private sellers but everything is backed by Amazon and 99% of the sellers have Amazons return policy, and even if you get an issue, all you have to do is contact Amazon. I've got such a good history with them that as soon as I ship a product back and the code is scanned at UPS, they refund me that night. I have not used ebay since 2005 or earlier. Get Amazon Prime and buy some truck parts
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closet full of parts
Why not just order the entire kit?
Timing kit
Get some new VCT's, and the HV oil pump, plus your valve cover gaskets and be done with it. Unless there is a problem in the top end outside of the timing kit, that is all you need.
Also, never use ebay. It's a haven for scammers and Amazon does use private sellers but everything is backed by Amazon and 99% of the sellers have Amazons return policy, and even if you get an issue, all you have to do is contact Amazon. I've got such a good history with them that as soon as I ship a product back and the code is scanned at UPS, they refund me that night. I have not used ebay since 2005 or earlier. Get Amazon Prime and buy some truck parts
Timing kit
Get some new VCT's, and the HV oil pump, plus your valve cover gaskets and be done with it. Unless there is a problem in the top end outside of the timing kit, that is all you need.
Also, never use ebay. It's a haven for scammers and Amazon does use private sellers but everything is backed by Amazon and 99% of the sellers have Amazons return policy, and even if you get an issue, all you have to do is contact Amazon. I've got such a good history with them that as soon as I ship a product back and the code is scanned at UPS, they refund me that night. I have not used ebay since 2005 or earlier. Get Amazon Prime and buy some truck parts
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Joined: Jan 2015
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Consider throwing in a couple of other things that weren't mentioned in your list. A full set of lash adjusters and rollers/followers while you have her opened up. Cams are easy to 'lift' (after marking and removing cam caps) and you can clean VCT valve bodies and oil passageways to cams / phasers while you're in there. Will run ya' another 250 - 300 but will cure the most common cause of the 'tick' developing (this CURED my tick). That fully describes what I did to my 2004 5.4 about 30,000 miles ago, and at 244,500 miles she is quiet as a mouse, pulls like a bunch of Clydesdales, scats like a scalded dog, holds 23 lbs oil pressure at full hot idle, and uses about a quart to quart and 1/2 during 5000 mile oil/filter change. It routinely runs 50 and up to 70 or 80 drive cycles without registering a single misfire on Torque Pro Mode 6 report. I'm hoping for well into the 300's while holding my breath on original equipment well beyond poor service - ie: Torque Converter, Transmission, U-Joints - drive shaft, pinion seal / bearing, rear end, rear wheel bearings!!!! I'm rockin' and rolling. You will be too.
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Joined: Aug 2018
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From: Riverbank, CA.
I am replacing everything, entire timing set Phasers chains crank gear tensioners guides M360 oil pump vct,s oil filter housing gasket, upper,lower rad hoses intake manifold gaskets, thermostat, sparkplugs coils tranny filter and more, i have over $1300 in parts, ALL FORD GENUINE. bought them over the spanse of a year CASH, no cards. next year both exhaust manifolds and stainless studs, hopefully i,ll get my money,s worth if i can get another 100,000 mi out of her.
Was it expensive? Absolutely
Was it worth it? Absolutely
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@Torqued. my friend i am a long time shade tree, tore down and rebuilt a many pushrod engine but this engine i have no experience with, and i am apprehensive about foolin around with that type of valve train, i would not want to drop a valve into one of those cylinders, and yes i have watched many of loco,s video,s including how to R/R these valve train components
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@150 Torqued i just watched a video on u tube, "the flat rate mechanic, he shows in a not very in depth disappointing video how to "lift" the cam so u can remove the lifters and followers install them and re install the camshaft, which is something i would definitely want to do, is this how u replaced your cam components ?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Yes sir. That is exactly how I did it, as part of my total timing job.
I had the valve spring tool but found it 100% PITA, 95% unworkable, and totally useless for anything other than a projectile when I threw it against the garage wall.
I'm retired and have plenty of time. So I just carefully marked journal caps, and slowly - loosened each cap bolt about 1/2 turn at a time up and down the row -- until there was no more spring tension on any spring.
Being extremely conscious of cleanliness and keeping any debris/trash out of oil passage ways, I cleaned all lash adjuster wells with B12 Chemtool, Q-tips, and compressed air. Also blew out all cam journal oil passageways - paying particular attention to a very small one in the front cap.
On re-install, I __VERY__ carefully set all roller/followers in place, then "VERT GENTLY" set cam on them with center cap & bolts straddling it for bolt hole alignment. Two or three times on each side I knocked one out of place and had to start over. But managed to get everything in place and tighten cam caps down in 1/2 turn sequence up and down the row. Then Torqued down appropriately
30 k miles later she's as quiet as a Mercedes Benz.
PS: Also remove VCT Valve bodies and clean all passageways - including the fine screen inside (like those in VCT Solenoids). Unrestricted oil flow is IMPERATIVE
Good luck.
I had the valve spring tool but found it 100% PITA, 95% unworkable, and totally useless for anything other than a projectile when I threw it against the garage wall.
I'm retired and have plenty of time. So I just carefully marked journal caps, and slowly - loosened each cap bolt about 1/2 turn at a time up and down the row -- until there was no more spring tension on any spring.
Being extremely conscious of cleanliness and keeping any debris/trash out of oil passage ways, I cleaned all lash adjuster wells with B12 Chemtool, Q-tips, and compressed air. Also blew out all cam journal oil passageways - paying particular attention to a very small one in the front cap.
On re-install, I __VERY__ carefully set all roller/followers in place, then "VERT GENTLY" set cam on them with center cap & bolts straddling it for bolt hole alignment. Two or three times on each side I knocked one out of place and had to start over. But managed to get everything in place and tighten cam caps down in 1/2 turn sequence up and down the row. Then Torqued down appropriately
30 k miles later she's as quiet as a Mercedes Benz.
PS: Also remove VCT Valve bodies and clean all passageways - including the fine screen inside (like those in VCT Solenoids). Unrestricted oil flow is IMPERATIVE
Good luck.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2016
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I bought mine from ebay oem select they are now $ 945, I had good luck with them . Only problem with these kits are plastic tensioners . I would try to deal with them to get melling steel ratcheting tensioners . The tension stays with it until oil pressure builds up . These plastic ones don't hold and can backlash and jump time. I definitely would put the melling hv oil pump in no matter what else . .
I would not trust freedom racing they hawk cnc phasers as superior to ford . We all know they are full of it. They are junk ,so I don't know what you would get from them .No trust. I really don't know why aftermarket can't make them better.
This is a painful repair I don't want anyone to have to do a redo.Its not childs play to get that timing cover off and throw away some onetime use bolts and re rtv joints .
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-NEW-For...wAAOxyYTRSU0dw
I would not trust freedom racing they hawk cnc phasers as superior to ford . We all know they are full of it. They are junk ,so I don't know what you would get from them .No trust. I really don't know why aftermarket can't make them better.
This is a painful repair I don't want anyone to have to do a redo.Its not childs play to get that timing cover off and throw away some onetime use bolts and re rtv joints .
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-NEW-For...wAAOxyYTRSU0dw