@ redfishd,I did alot of reading on this bought all my components over the spanse of a year cash and 95% bought off ebay, never had a problem with them and when i had a problem with a vendor(Rarely) ebay always took care of it. all components are ford genuine. yes i did buy the OEM steel ratcheting type of tensioners from modular motorsports, they deal with mustang racing and was lucky to find them, the plastic ones suffer alot of wear and tear from expansion and contraction ( heat cycles) which causes the plastic bodies to become brittle and the gaskets on them to blow out, nope im not so stupid sometimes my friend, just ordered followers and lash adjusters from ford parts giant, cheepest vendors around IMHO) @ fordpartsgiant.com. they charge shipping but its all genuine. wasnt going to order them but f150 torqued talked me into it. so i went to the warden(wife) and got the OK thats the last of the ordering i have everything i need,got about $125 worth of oil,coolant and whatnot sitting in the garage, i remember when a quart of oil was 50 cents and a gallon of anti freeze went for $4 then they had the antifreeze shortage.Thanx for your advice and holding my hand, appreciate the conversations. Tony 2007 F150 FX4 121,000mi, one more thing, i noticed you installed a melling m360, howd you fair on that ? got one waiting to be bolted in

 

I don't have an added oil gauge but she's running good . I had replaced all followers and lashs oem for $265. I used the cam lift method no problem . My biggest problem was the power steering bolts / I did not have a small enough impact to get crank pulley off , so I made a steel bar to hold it , that came in handy for the two step torque on installation . Plus I used a full size card board timing cover to put all bolts in and marked torque and sequence on it .
The phasor toothed holding tool was the best tool ,you have to use it 4 times and its cheap. I failed to use steel tensioners as I didn't know better but I have them now .

Carefully watch that reluctor wheel fingers go toward radiator .

 

I admire cleaver tools such as @redfishtd crank holding tool. Good ole 'red neck' engineering can save lots of money on any job.

A couple more are.
o- The phasor toothed holding tool function can be accomplished easily by using one of the 'old' timing chains wrapped around the phaser with both sides 'pinched' under a large washer on a timing cover bolt.
o- Similar to above, a piece of log chain will function well for holding fan while removing Water Pump <> Fan bolt. Bolt the chain under one of the four small bolts - and bolt the other end under ANY bolt that will hold the chain tight.

 

BRILLIANT ! Always amazed at shadetree engineering, now if only ford engineers can achieve the same mindset. soaking all this up Gentilmen, and will utilize. got the phaser and crank timing tool, cheap insurance. what site or guide did u use to get all your torque specs and illustrations,? i have searched with inadequate results, and once again, thanx for holding my hand, Tony

 

Check your PM's.

 

I wouldn't either always thought fomoco was where Ford did remanu. Box should say motorcraft

 

ok I see yAll talking About Doing top End.
No mention of Dropping oil PAN to clear out Sludge DebRi or whatever else has FAlling down from top crop rolls Down Hill not up. NO im not trying to be rude or A donkey just saying
there is one person On u tube from Chicago that has g rest And Educational videos EEX ford Employee that went out on His Own (FordTechmakUloco)..

 

After I spent a long time pulling fibers out of my pu screen its a given for me . People who think that the pieces are going to come out the drain have not dealt with the muck on the bottom of the pan that would hold many pieces like glue . But they haven't viewed what the chain and etc does by shredding those parts that don't make it directly to pan . Tiny fibers like fiber glass .
I get that 4wd pans are harder but its a lousy gamble ,I never had some of my pieces come out as I always check for funny stuff in my oil . All that labor and parts can be lost if oil doesn't flow .
But equally I want a full timing job to include lashs and rollers especially after mine threw a roller to the side barely missing cam .
But the biggest improvement is that hv oil pump ,if I help anybody do theirs I will insist on it . Too late for mine but at least its a melling m360.

 

Gentlemen, i want to thank you all for helping with a task i had no experience performing but with your help it has been a success, yes a couple times scratching my head but thought processes prevailed, took my sweet time, 3 weeks. opened her up and found interior of the block was very clean, all that needed replacing were tensioners, seals were blown, phasers, vvt,s were shot, guides were in good shape, chains were stretched but what do you expect, roller followers and lifters were in great shape, oil pump was worn, substituted with an M360, REPLACED EVERYTHING, performed the lift method to replace followers and lifters, went smoothly. found wear on the underside of the camcaps, but probably so do most people, cams were in good shape, blew out all passages with brake parts cleaner and shop air. used six cans of brake parts cleaner and an untold amount of shop rags,soaked all parts including cams in new 5w30 oil while cleaning, about four days worth, reassembly, soaked everything down with lucas assembly lube including chains and guides,slow and steady, re evaluating whilst assembling. start up was a non event, my son is my right hand man and was there for me when i needed him, engine runs like a silent but deadly, smooth and quiet, changed oil after 500 mile break in, mobile one 5w30, oh yea while everything was apart replaced the radiator, all hoses, power steering pump,both high and low pressure hoses and the rack and pinion,installed a glowshift oil pressure gauge and oil filter sandwich, getting 24psi in hot 600 rpm drive idle, My Hats off to f150 Torqued and Redfishtd, thanks for holding my hand.

 

@huey67 you couldn't possibly know how satisfying a feeling your report provides those of us who played a small part in your rebuild. I recall very well how I felt when I fired mine up - (fixed the initial code from poor connection on one COP) then marveled at how smooth and quiet it idled. Wishing you thousands of miles of trouble free service.

 

@f150 Torqued,,, with Yourself and Redfishtd on my side, there could be no other outcome,,,, Happy Motoring my Friend.

 

Son gun my stoopid millennial self thinks I can do this job too now, I'm ready to crack into the motor but as Huey I'm reading up first. Going to do some praying I can put it all back together my apologies for being a free loader but if anyone would/could post any relevant threads, pictures or links to correct parts, it'd be super appreciated.
Not even sure if I NEED to do this but ol girl running janky with a side of shady with 280k hard miles on her. I've a slough of problems and not sure where to begin to be honest. To skip too much energy on anyone's behalf posting relevant links might be best as I'm a reader. Thanks

 

You need to go to ford tech makuloco on youtube and watch engine timing chain kit replacement parts 1 thru 4 then make a decision, DONT use aftermarket parts, USE ONLY FORD OEM PARTS

 

YesSah I will, literally right now. If it wasn't for fan and shroud holding me up, I'd be full tore into er by now haha

 

Yea it's pretty damn hard to get the Fan & pulley and some of them timing cover bolts off with that fan shroud there. In fact - I took the radiator out. This ole stiff 73 year ole fart couldn't bend over in there good enough, I had to sit on the cross member under the radiator to tinker with most of the stuff down there. But if I can do it (over about a week), I can't see any reason why a millennial couldn't. AND A TEXAN AT THAT!!

If you will PM me an email address, I will send you a couple of things that should be helpful. And I promise there will be help here if you need it.

With 280k miles, I suspect yours is well ready for the job.