When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Abe motivated me to get out to the garage. I spent the day cleaning and did not want to get crazy dirty working on the truck. But I couldn’t resist doing something small and gratifying. I hope it shows up in the pictures but I cleaned and polished the access cover on the door. Looks almost like new save a few scratches. Before is the picture of the door. After is the panel. In the last photo you can see my reflection in the paint.
Actually got in the garage and did some work today on the truck. Removed the radiator, radiator frame with the cross bars, grill, headlights, disconnected exhaust from the manifold, fuel pump and labeled all the wires for the headlights and parking lights.
I got stuck on one item....the distributor will not come out. I removed both retaining bolts completely. It won’t rotate or budge at all. Any suggestions? Am I missing something? This is the seized motor so not critical that I get it out right now but if possible I would like to do it so it is out of the way when I pull the engine.
I of course had to do something to get some instant gratification. Before and after pics of my parking light bezel after cleaning it up with a scotchbrite pad and CLR.
Since I have no plans to do anything cosmetically on the exterior this maintains the weathered patina look instead of a freshly painted part which would look out of place. This takes care of the “it’s just rust” look pretty nicely.
Targeting to get the engine out in the next 10 days. I will probably get derailed and miss the objective, but good to set goals!
Those light bezels came out nice. Cleaning up rust and still keeping the patina matched looks tricky. So is removing seized distributors. I'd spray it a time or two a day but it won't penetrate at first. Tap on it and try to twist it and pry it up without marring it. At some point you will probably get it to move and you can then get the spray to penetrate some. With patience you will win.
I took the gas tank temp sender cap off the tank so I can suck out the old fuel. I also need to disconnect the fuel line so I can drop the tank. I can’t see how to get at the flare nut to undo it? There doesn’t seem to be a way to get a wrench on the nut.
Good question. I looked at my pictures thinking I had done this. But since I was replacing the tank and lines I just cut the line.
Now, I had to get the new line back on somehow. It's been too long to remember how I did it. But I had the cab off. My guess is that gave me room to tighten it down.
Could this be a good use of a crows foot wrench? I've never used one, but it seems like a good option.
Crows foot line wrench (socket). Or a flare nut as you referred to it. I'd start spraying it down last week. Here is a cheap set. I'd rather have just a few in higher quality for the most common sizes. I've probably gone about 20 years without using most of the sockets in my set. Power steering lines and the occasional fuel fitting is about all I use them for. When you need them you need them though.
Gents. Problem solved! Thanks for the recommendation. Until the crows foot clears the top of the tank it is 1/4 turn at a time flopping from side to side. But it got the job done painlessly. Hopefully this helps someone in the future.
“Gas tank flare fitting”
”Gas tank Fuel line removal”
”gas tank fuel line disconnect”
Good deal. I need to get me a set at some point. I have never needed one, but I'm sure they will come in handy sometime.
They actually make ratcheting sets as well.
Good deal. I had your odds at about 50-50 if you forced it without soaking it a good while. That fitting is probably fairly soft and not plated all that well.
I had soaked it a couple of times but obviously for only a a short period. I had to work it back and forth and put a wedge between the fuel line and the hatch so it wouldn’t twist. With a little gentle persuasion it broke free.
got all the fuel out except maybe a 1/4”. I am not sure 40 year old fuel will even burn! Smells closer to diesel than gas.
Now to cut the rusted bolts from the straps and running board brackets so I can drop the tank.
2 new questions:
The oil pressure sender has 2 prongs on it. It only had one wire attached to it. Not clear why there are 1 prongs or if there should be different part installed. Picture below.
There was a screen in front of the radiator. Is that a stock item or an add on from the farm?
Here is a cheap set. I'd rather have just a few in higher quality for the most common sizes. I've probably gone about 20 years without using most of the sockets in my set. Power steering lines and the occasional fuel fitting is about all I use them for. When you need them you need them though.
