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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

‘55 F250 build thread - Roots Up

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Old Jan 14, 2026 | 08:50 PM
  #631  
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Originally Posted by 8pack
Thanks!! Looks like the red color is probably the best.
Agreed!
 
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Old Jan 15, 2026 | 06:37 AM
  #632  
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I just used red nail polish https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14630645


 
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Old Jan 15, 2026 | 08:31 AM
  #633  
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Originally Posted by Harrier
You vixen you!
 
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 06:19 PM
  #634  
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I re-did my gauge panel and put a new speedometer in. I got the speedometer from Summit as they had the best price but it sees to be the same one all the restoration companies sell.

I painted the needles and am very happy with how they came out. I also painted the needle on the speedometer as it was a bit more orange than the other needles and since it is so big I wanted it to match. The trick is to load up the brush and drag it across the needle with the goal being to do it all in one coat and a single swipe. I didn't always get the single swipe but one heavy coat worked perfectly. It dries a matte finish pretty quickly.

I mounted them all back in and put a different temp gage in as I wasn't sure mine was working properly. I think it is working but am not 100% sure yet. I have another thread on it.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...and-gauge.html

I didn't open the gauge cluster up and clean the glass or paint the bezel. I decided I wanted to leave it a little weathered like the rest of the interior.

I got a new 6v temp Sender and tested it and think it is working. The water got too cool to really tell so I am going to test it again tomorrow with the new gauge. It seems that sender works but the issue is it is a 3/8 NPT thread and the block is 1/4 NPT. I ordered a reducer but I know the sender barrel won't fit through it and I will have to drill it out. It looks there there should be enough material to do that. If not I am going to have a machine shop make me up a fitting so the barrel has a tight friction fit. That will keep the threads from cracking when it goes into the block as the sender barrel will support the threads/fitting.

I won't be able to full test the sender and gauge or speedometer until spring when I can put it on the road and hopefully it won't turn into a re-do.

I think the next thing in the list is the first out change and taking a crack at the repairing the heater valve again.

Needles before
Needles before
During painting
During painting
All done
All done
I took an acid brush and trimmed the bristlws back tightly so I could control the width of the paint being applied
I took an acid brush and trimmed the bristlws back tightly so I could control the width of the paint being applied
Finished
Finished
Reinstalled. Not sure why the needle is sitting where it is. Hopefully it's not broken.
Reinstalled. Not sure why the needle is sitting where it is. Hopefully it's not broken.


 
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 06:42 PM
  #635  
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Quote: "I didn't open the gauge cluster up and clean the glass or paint the bezel. I decided I wanted to leave it a little weathered like the rest of the interior."

Your bezel looks great for not being repainted. And your interior is not a little weathered!
 
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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 06:10 PM
  #636  
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Aaaargh. Summit wants me to return the speedometer so I have to take the the whole cluster out again. I think I will buy the replacement somewhere else. There seem to be 2 styles. One with an oval shaped high beam hole and one with a round. Mine is definitely the round hole which is the one I got from Summit. LMC also has a round hole so I will probably get it from them. Ecklers and Classic industries has the oval shaped hole.

I tested my temp gauge and sender using an infrared thermometer. Where the gauge reads based on Temp in the pics below. It reads at about 3/4 at 190* and about 1/3 at 155*. I don't know what the typical operating temperature is and I can't remember if I bought a 180* or 160* thermostat. I know it was whatever the stock one is supposed to be. It looks like around 170* it would be at the center. I ordered another temp sender which is 1/4NPT and won't require an adapter. After researching it looks like it should work. I will have it in about a week and will test and decide which one to use.

Round high beam hole
Round high beam hole
Oval high beam hole
Oval high beam hole
190*
190*
155*
155*
 
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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 07:07 PM
  #637  
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About the temp gauge. You'll discover where your needle is for normal operating temps. Then when it goes above that you should concerned.

How do you keep your bezel from getting scratched up with you removing the instrument panel so often.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 07:52 PM
  #638  
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I have only done it this one time, out and in. However when I took it out I undid the screws and pushed it back into the dash and then put 2 layers of blue tape all around the edge of the dash frame to protect it. I also layer a cloth down on top of the steering column so I wouldn't scratch the bezel or the column while I disconnected it.

It still got a little marked up anyway as I hadn't done it before and didn't know how to get it out. This next time will go a little smoother. But I didn't want to take it out again so I could avoid possibly scratching it up.

When I know Summit is taking it back I will order another one from LMC and then do the swap all at once so I don't have the gauge cluster sitting out where I can manage to accidentally break it.

 
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Old Mar 26, 2026 | 03:25 PM
  #639  
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Latest update on the speedometer.

Summit sent me a new one and the situation was exactly the same. They said it needed to be calibrated but couldn't tell me how to do that and said they would contact the manufacturer and get back to me which the never did. I left the original one I bought in and sent the replacement back as I didn't want to take the dash apart again. I backed it out of the garage and the needle is now buried where it can't be seen. So at this point all is left is to drive it and see if it works.

Getting ready to take it out and did the first oil change on the new motor. I will do a separate post but when I removed the oil filter and went to dump it out no excess oil came out of it. Not sure if that is normal given it is side mounted.

Also the vent tube pushes some oily black soot out which gets on the back of the motor and transmission. which I assume is normal. It's messy to clean up. Does anyone have any kind of filter on the end of theirs that doesn't restrict the venting but catches some of that oil and soot?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2026 | 04:08 PM
  #640  
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On the Yblocks the vent tube has a little filter. I'm not sure about yours . Post a picture.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2026 | 07:51 PM
  #641  
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Here's the best one I have tonight.


 
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