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So I have ordered the Pro-Comp springs and the shocks according to Pirate's recommendation. I am away from the leaf springs now and I'm getting ready to place my order with WFO. Do I need longer spring pack center bolts or will the ones currently in the pro-comp leaf springs be long enough? If so, how long will be good? Also, what was the final consensus on if the leaf Spring plate needs to be replaced? I am also away from the truck to check mine out. What would cause them to be damaged in the first place?
The center bolts were plenty long enough for my install. Make sure you have two stout C-clamps to hold the springs together when you remove it.
@lfthrdr when your front ubolts arrive do me a favor and post a pic of them. I received some BS front ones yesterday and I want to save anybody the frustration of using them,
If you guys are having issues with another companies Ubolts let me know. We bend all our Ubolts from straight rods here in house and ship out Free. All material of rods are made here in the USA.
If you guys are having issues with another companies Ubolts let me know. We bend all our Ubolts from straight rods here in house and ship out Free. All material of rods are made here in the USA.
technically it wasn't the bolts themself, but the hardware, they sent nylock nuts and ordinary washers which is garbage.
hopefully it was a mistake and not a switch in their supplier.
technically it wasn't the bolts themself, but the hardware, they sent nylock nuts and ordinary washers which is garbage.
hopefully it was a mistake and not a switch in their supplier.
@lfthrdr when your front ubolts arrive do me a favor and post a pic of them. I received some BS front ones yesterday and I want to save anybody the frustration of using them,
I have longer U-bolts from ATS that I used on my previous suspension set-up when I installed it in 2015. I was just going to re-use those U- bolts. I know there's been a little debate about not re-using U-bolts but Pirate what are your thoughts?
my thoughts are there is NO debate, Ubolts are a torque to yield fastener and not to be reused. anybody who debates that doesn't know what they are talking about and you can argue with them until your are blue in the face but the fact remains. torque to yield fasteners do not get reused. unless your name is Bubba, then its cool
And because I am just another jackwad on the internet let’s defer to the authority on our Excursions.... the manufacture.
straight out of the 2001 Factory Workshop Manual published by Ford....
Ok. You sold me. Sorry for all the questions but here's a couple more. For the 2 degree FRONT shims which way is the slope facing when installed on the spring pack? On the rears, do they just mirror the slope of the removed block?
Pirate, on the ubolt kit you linked from WFO, there is one of the bolts that is a 4" and 10" long. Where is that different ubolt installed? I don't remember the different sized one from my last spring swap.
front springs shim you want to increase the positive caster so roll the pinion down. fat part of the shim goes towards the rear of the vehicle.
rear springs…. if you have a non CV driveshaft then you also want tom roll the pinion down but the fat part goes towards the front.
if you have a CV type drive shaft. I have never done one myself but a recent thread shows No shim worked. post yours and we can work through it to confirm.
for the front ubolts, I have previously linked to UFO but until i can confirm they just shipped the wrong item on a recent build then use these.
9.5" semi round https://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/WFO-I...its/3208/16924.
front springs shim you want to increase the positive caster so roll the pinion down. fat part of the shim goes towards the rear of the vehicle.
rear springs…. if you have a non CV driveshaft then you also want tom roll the pinion down but the fat part goes towards the front.
if you have a CV type drive shaft. I have never done one myself but a recent thread shows No shim worked. post yours and we can work through it to
I have the double u joint in the front driveshaft but for the rear I only have the single joints (assuming it would be the non-CV driveshaft then). Which would mean I should use 2 wedges in the front to increase the caster and the 2 wedges in the back to help eliminate any possible vibrations, correct?
Also, where are the leaf spring plates located in relation to the leaf springs? I am guessing they are the plates on top of the rear leaf springs? If so, mine seem to be very stout and definitely not warped. I apologize if this is an obvious question as I am just trying to gather all necessary parts prior to tear down.
Last edited by lfthrdr; May 21, 2019 at 08:37 PM.
Reason: Answered my own question
I have the double u joint in the front driveshaft but for the rear I only have the single joints (assuming it would be the non-CV driveshaft then). Which would mean I should use 2 wedges in the front to increase the caster and the 2 wedges in the back to help eliminate any possible vibrations, correct?
Also, where are the leaf spring plates located in relation to the leaf springs? I am guessing they are the plates on top of the rear leaf springs? If so, mine seem to be very stout and definitely not warped. I apologize if this is an obvious question as I am just trying to gather all necessary parts prior to tear down.
1. correct
2. use the stockers then
3…. WFO do not get their front ubolts. use these from PMF
semi round. 9.5" Front Axle Ubolts
Purchase two kits of this part number and you will also receive Free Shipping (two kits will be enough for the front axle). Will include extra thick washers and deep nuts.
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