Completely forgot about the navel jelly I have some on the shelf In used on my trailer. It's just in a PITA spot to get to.

And yes they came from over seas. I emailed LMC to let them know to do a stock check. Who knows how long these sit in a warehouse as well.

Other than that it is from a ISO 9001 manufacturer and the look really well put together. Just trying to give as much I fo on these doors as possible.

 

Don't you need to wash the jelly off? Been a long time since I used it.
The acid you can put in a small spray bottle to get it inside the doors.
Rubber gloves and a little spray and some way to wipe it around, does not need to be wiped off and let it dry.

Any of the surface rust on mine that is what I have done before doing any of the much needed body work because body filler & primer / paint will not stop the rust from coming back up from under them.
Dave ----

 

Yeah navel jelly has to be well brushed. It's too tough for that. I am going to hit it with Eastwood's chassis saver and call it a day. It stops rust and encapsulates it.

 

I have used the Eastwood brush / spray on rust encapsulator on this truck and other project and the internal 360* spray for inside chassis but not the chassis saver or is that the same stuff?
Dave ----

 

Yeah the chassis saver is the 360 spray nozzle stuff. I bought some for the pillars and hood I'll put that nozzle in the door and hit it really quick. Should do the trick.

 

Ok lost some time in the garage this weekend so far. Passed a couple kidney stones yesterday and put in an irrigation system in the back yard.

Today started off with pressure washing the back of the house and porch. Still need to go out and redo some landscape timbers.

For into the cab and started working at what rust I could find. Added cleaner it up with mineral spirits, let it flash off then wiped and applied corroseal. Added some corroseal to the dash supports as well. It's hot, the portable AC only does so much in an uninsulated garage. Sun and heats given me a headache I'm calling it a day. I have to wait 24 hours on the corroseal anyway and then do a 2nd coat.

I have to finish insulating the garage door and put the new bottoms seal on tonight.

 

You must be a younger pup to do all that after passing kidney stones. My dad would get them and he was out for the count for a few days.

I have to wash my house some day but going to hire someone as my washer is missing parts and I hear it is cheaper to have someone else do it. I also got to prep and paint the 2 car house garage door as it is looking shabby.

What is the plan on the inside after you treat it with corroseal? Can it be painted over with auto paint or you have to use something else with an oil base?
As for sealing the door don't over look the sides also. My house up north before the move here was under the living & master bed rooms with insulation between them & garage space.
The garage was too cold to work in during the winter till I put the seals across the top and down the sides. Bottom was below the driveway and it sealed pretty good there with out any thing.

I should do the same in my garage here but I have 2 wide doors and the heater I have heats it up pretty good on low once the chill is gone.
It also does not get that cold down here like it did up north, heat during the summer is a different story!
Dave ----

 

I have had my share of them and have a very high pain tolerance and can't seem to sit still.

After the coroseal sets up you hit it with oil paint. I'll be using oil based primer. And sanding by hand and a DA sander to smooth out the surface then painting with some single stage white.

 

You may want to do a test panel on how you plan to do that as I got a feeling the coroseal and the oil base primer will work together but not the (auto paint?) single stage.
I think you may get the coroseal / primer lifting with the single stage paint.
Dave ----

 

That's a good idea.

I did a 5 foot test section of the frame with coroseal, Rust-Oleum primer then Rust-Oleum automotive gloss black and it seems to be ok. I'm using my cab floor as my test bed since it is getting carpeted.

 

Because you used Rust-Oleum primer then Rust-Oleum automotive gloss black over that you should be ok.
If you are doing the same on the inside of the cab it will be ok but if you do Rust-Oleum primer then automotive grade paint over it I am sure you will have a problem with paint lifting and why the test panel.

Back in the day you could not put automotive lacquer over automotive enamel as it would lift.
Lacquer was used in primers & spot jobs for painting as it dried fast. Lacquer paint did not shine so you had to buff it, enamel paint shined so no buffing but took longer to dry and was hard to do spot painting & blending.
If the enamel was an older paint job it was hard to tell it was enamel till you started to put the lacquer down and went OH SH**!
You would then need to take it all off and start over and be vary careful how wet / heavy you put the lacquer on.

I don't think you have that issue with todays automotive paint as it is hard to get anything lacquer now days, I like lacquer primer (hard to get), and you can put enamel (that you can get mostly) over lacquer. That is how I am doing my truck, automotive lacquer primer with single stage automotive enamel over it.
Todays enamels are more like the old lacquers it dries fast, you can do some blending but it shines so no buffing.
Dave ----

 

Got the old hinges out today, cleaned up the rust with a wire wheel getting ready to treat it. A lot of nasty pitting around those rubber plugs. I'm going to replace these and seal them in place to keep water from sitting between the plug and the metal so this doesn't ever happen again.





I'm going to add new seam seal before painting this up. I think I will also fay seal the hinges.

Also ran into my first bit of bondo repairs just aft of the passenger door on the b pillar/cab corner.

 

Ok masked off the rear window dash, pedals and steering wheel. Went over the cab with a vacuum and some denatured alcohol found a couple more trouble spots and cleared the paint.

Laid down another coat of corroseal. I find that two coats at a minimum is needed with this because I'm using a brush. If you let it sit a day or two you will find any "bleed through" when it really is just streaks left untreated by the brush. I expiramented today with brushing it on and letting it set up a bit then going at it again in a parallel. We will see how that turns out. You know your done when all you have is black from the tannic acid in the corroseal reacting with any ferric oxide.

If all goes well, tomorrow we will be cleared to prime the interior.

 

I remember when mine looked like that, well I had everything removed from the inside of the cab.
I was happy I had a HVLP spray gun to paint with, could not do the inside roof with an old style type spray gun.

Don't forget to tape up the cert sticker in the left door jamb before painting.
Dave ----

 

Good catch, I will.