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Most definitely no O around that D. I should have caught this before lol.
My friend is trying hard to get me to buy this Lincoln. It has an AOD in it and he is trying to convince me to do the swap saying he has done c6 to aod swaps before. But the cost, and other the changes needed may not be worth it. Then again a manual swap may also not be worth the hassle. The gear vendors is by far the easiest... And most expensive way to go and gives only a 22% OD.
Don't panic. Drive it as is, you can change the transmission later if you think you need it. Do this in baby steps. With the 3.08 gear it may not be too bad.
Ok I think I got all the Vacuum stuff figured out. New warm air hose to go to the manifold to air cleaner diverter is on order. I need to pick up some vacuum tubing to run from the diverter to the new old stock bimetal valve that's on its way then to the ported vac switch. Also found the carbon box disconnected.
I have a 195 degree superstat on hand but think I will go with 180 being in the south. Waiting on a new water outlet elbow and temp sensor to get in.
Put new v belts on and added the one back to the AC compressor. The PO said it was disconnected when he bought it but the clutch and pulley seem to spin freely so...what's the worst that could happen?
Replaced the disintegrated grommet on the valve cover for the breather and picked up a new breather filter today as well. While doing that I decided to clean up the valve cover a little to get an idea of what color it used to be. And because I found it had the cool old school "Ford" script on it. Looks like on the back end there is still what appears to be silver paint. But from my reading I can only find that these were blue or grey. Granted it also seems to be hit or miss if you had the "Ford" script or not. I'd like to paint it when I replace the gaskets.
True - both your shift indicator & certification label are for a C6 trans........but is there a C6 in the truck currently? I've converted in the opposite direction in the past (AOD to C6, then later to manual) & the shift indicator uses six positions for either transmission & will work for either, despite reading incorrectly in some gears.
Counting shifts will tell you...........two shifts for a C6; three for an AOD (as long as you select Overdrive, not Drive).
Also, a C6 oil pan has 17 bolts; an AOD has 14.
So fun new information. When I bought the truck I was also informed it had the AOD. Great, I plan on driving a lot of highway, I need every bit of gas mileage I can get. I prefer a manual, but if I'm going auto, might as well get the OD.
Seems not to be the case. Checked the door codes, Transmission code appears to be a K with an axle code of 18. If I am correct this is the 3 speed C6 with 3.08 gears.
TRANS code is difficult to read, but it appears to be K = C6.
AXLE code 18: 1983/89 = 3.08-1 or 1986 only = 3.00-1
It very much has the C6 in it. I'm going to leave it like that until the truck is almost complete. The plan is then to buy a Monster Transmission AOD and swap that in.
Right now we are on hold for parts. I need to figure out the vacuum line size for running from the flapper to the bimetal valve then down to the PVS. That should get her up and running while I focus on the body.
The air pump on the truck is gone. I could replace that as well. Part of me just wants to remove all of this emmisions stuff and cap or link vacuum lines etc. But I am afraid of causing engine issues (engine ping etc).
At the encouragement of a fear head friend of mine I've been eyeballing those Offy intake manifolds. Would allow a 2bbl or 4bbl carb... Or a aftermarket EFI system like the Holly sniper etc. A nice set of split headers drop the cat and run a nice set of pipes to go with it.
I got up early, 6AM yesterday, then posted all day and night, then into today.
And I did all this jazz without a nap.
There were two films I wanted to watch this mornin' .. Fate Is The Hunter (20th Century-Fox:1964) 6:30-8:00 & Dodsworth (Goldwyn:1936) 8:15-10:00, so I said what the hell, who needs sleep.
I missed most of Dodsworth, dozed off, but watched about 10 minutes of the ending, the best part of this film...about an auto maker who sells out to a combine, then travels in Europe with his frivolous wife.
Ok so still waiting on parts I decided to bust out some steel wool and scotch pads and test some of this coroseal. Pretty cool stuff.
I also it a wild hair and decided hey... Let's pull the inline fuel filter and fuel line between the carb and fuel pump. I noticed on the pump the line looked a bit kinked and rusted. It was... And it was a pita to get off, and even with a back up wrench I twisted the top of the fuel pump about 1/8 of a turn.
There was zero fuel in this line. Should there not be some sort of prime or does it all back flow to the pump?
Can't seem to find a replacement fuel line either. I'd like to out a new one on here.
It very much has the C6 in it. I'm going to leave it like that until the truck is almost complete. The plan is then to buy a Monster Transmission AOD and swap that in.
Right now we are on hold for parts. I need to figure out the vacuum line size for running from the flapper to the bimetal valve then down to the PVS. That should get her up and running while I focus on the body.
The air pump on the truck is gone. I could replace that as well. Part of me just wants to remove all of this emmisions stuff and cap or link vacuum lines etc. But I am afraid of causing engine issues (engine ping etc).
At the encouragement of a fear head friend of mine I've been eyeballing those Offy intake manifolds. Would allow a 2bbl or 4bbl carb... Or a aftermarket EFI system like the Holly sniper etc. A nice set of split headers drop the cat and run a nice set of pipes to go with it.
This is a 1986 model correct? If so, and you have the original engine controls on it, you can't take certain pieces off without disabling the engine's controls. If your engine is original, it has a computer just like a fuel injected engine, with a throttle position sensor, map sensor, and a special distributor made for electronic control of the timing. If you want to add any of this aftermarket stuff or take any of the emissions off, you will have to change out the distributor and several other pieces to make it work.
This is a 1986 model correct? If so, and you have the original engine controls on it, you can't take certain pieces off without disabling the engine's controls. If your engine is original, it has a computer just like a fuel injected engine, with a throttle position sensor, map sensor, and a special distributor made for electronic control of the timing. If you want to add any of this aftermarket stuff or take any of the emissions off, you will have to change out the distributor and several other pieces to make it work.
Yes 1986, everything seems original less the missing air pump.
I was curious what it would take to switch everything over right it is even worth worrying about.
Spent some time yesterday busting some rust. Installed the new T-stat and water outlet, the cleaned up fuel line and filter. Parts delivery is scheduled for Wednesday so we will be ready to rock and roll.
White was suggested as an exterior color option by a friend. Could be interesting. Would definitely be the coolest option for being south of the Mason Dixon line.
The coolant elbow is what I needed the most so I can get the truck started back up so off to paint she went.
Buffed out the areas that were hit with corroseal yesterday and got some primer down to seal it up. No where near final, will need to be sanded, skim coat, sanded and primed again, just fighting rust right now.
While I was at it I wanted to paint the air cleaner old ford blue, but the finish was sketchy, so buffed her out and busted out the paint.
Got the coolant system all hooked back up today. Started to top her off with coolant. Ran out. Will pick up more tomorrow. Still waiting on some vacuum line to come in. Finished painting the air cleaner, installed the new breather, installed the new bi metal valve, sanded down yesterday's primer job. Put a few more LEDs in as well. Easy day.
Need to figure out why my needle is not lining up with what gear the truck is in.
A good bit of disappointment as I crawled under the truck today to inspect rust, fuel lines, brake lines and hook up the sending unit I was told was disconnected.
It appears the PO replaced all the fuel lines with some plastic tubing.
The rusted away brake line remnants are there and he patched in some new steel line. I'll have to put some proper bent line in and some steel fuel line as well. At this point I'm thinking drop the tank and replace it while I'm at it.
Heat Shields under the bed above the exhaust are rusted through and half gone. I can't find the spare tire mount either.
There is a lot of fluid under the truck. I think it may be coming from the front of the transmission.
The sooner I can get the bed off and start working on the frame the better I think.
05-02-2019, 02:17 PM
