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Hey guys, I'm looking at doing a build on the 460 in my '72 lincoln and am trying to figure out what I could get my compression ratio up to WITHOUT buying heads. My plan is to use the stock heads and have them milled along with a set of flat top pistons. What would this get me do you think? If I remember correctly, the car has 8.5:1 compression as it is right now. It's also going to be getting a pretty hefty cam, headers, intake, carb, etc. Any ideas what my horsepower would be? I'm planning on using a Cam Research camshaft, but I'll probably have them cut it in the realm of a Comp ***** Thumper. I want this thing to sound insane as well as run like a scalded ape. I'm still a good ways away from starting on the engine because the roof is rusted out from the vinyl top and that needs to get fixed first. Yeah, I know, I know, it's not a ford TRUCK, but you guys are so much nicer than anyone else on any other forums. Here's a pic of the car. I got it when I was 10 or 11, and have had it not for 5 or 6 years. The body itself is really really straight. It's had a bit of body work done on the drivers side rear fender, but they did a good job back whenever it was done (probably in the 80's) Thanks in advance!
Where did this current 460 come from and what are the casting numbers on the block and heads? Or is it the OEM motor?
It's the original motor. Casting numbers on the heads are D2VEAA. As far as I know, it's never been rebuild. The car has a pretty cool history, It belonged to the dad of my dad's high school best friend and my dad, being one of the biggest self owned shops in Albuquerque, did almost all the work on the car since the mid 80's until it was parked in about 2000 or so when the dad stopped driving it. It was a dang near perfect car before it got parked and time takes it's toll, you know how the story goes. As for the brakes and suspension, I plan on reworking all of that as well at some point.
I also have a pretty worn out 429 in one of my trucks too. I'm pretty sure it's out of a 74 thunderbird, at least that's what i was told by the guy who put it in there. I'm not sure if it would be any better to build than the 460. I'm also not sure that i want to take it out of the truck since it kinda has some neat history as well.
Ok, so I went out and looked at the heads on my 429 and they are the D3VE-A2A heads. I think I will take that motor out, or at least the heads, and use it in the lincoln. I'll have someone port, polish, and mill the heads. According to the "cook book", I can get 400hp with those heads. I'm not 100% sure that I'm going to use the whole engine yet, but I'm definitely going to use the heads.
Those are the same combustion chamber size. You are mistaking those heads for the D3VE heads referenced in the link above. Those have a slightly better 89CC chamber and a bigger intake valve. Chart here, and more info if you go up top and look at the other pages.
Hmm.... Are these heads at least useable for what I'm trying to do? If I were to have these heads shaved .040 or so and use some flat top pistons, would that get my compression up enough to make a noticeable difference?
(note it says your D3..heads are slightly better and so they might work with a little off the head and a little off the block. You will have to figure out pushrods etc.
Just sayin.....If your rotating assembly and cylinders are in good shape then a head change would be much cheaper and a better option. To change pistons your looking at a bore/hone, install pistons on rods, balance assembly, etc. Can get very expensive quick. You can find D0VE's reasonable if you look around.
The stock pistons are around .040 in the hole and have a huge dish, so that has to be addressed. The D2 heads ? Throw them in the junk pile, there is no hope for them, use the D3 heads. Shoot for a realistic compression ratio, after all it's still just a street engine and you don't want to get locked into expensive fuel because your going to be using a lot of it. I would go after the rear axle before building a engine, you will be surprised just how much of a difference there will be from your highway gears to a new set of 3.89's or better with a traction lock.
I would shoot for around 9 to 9.5 compression. A cheep way ? A set of '88 - '92 builder pistons. They have a slight dish that will help keep you in the low 9 compression range you need to be in with the D3's but you still have to deal with the deck height. I have milled it all off the block before but I wouldn't recommend you do it. It's just a lot to remove and who knows if it will ever crack somewhere ? A safer way, your crank throws could probably use turned by now anyways so have the shop stroke it out as far as they can for .030 over rod bearings. This should bring your pistons up in the hole a good bit so now you can safely mill the rest off the block to get you to zero deck or close. Go through all the pistons and check each ones deck height before the final milling of your block because builder pistons can vary in deck height somewhat. Lastly, figure out how many cc's you need your D3's to be and mill them off, it shouldn't take much to get you there.
The stock pistons are around .040 in the hole and have a huge dish, so that has to be addressed. The D2 heads ? Throw them in the junk pile, there is no hope for them, use the D3 heads. Shoot for a realistic compression ratio, after all it's still just a street engine and you don't want to get locked into expensive fuel because your going to be using a lot of it. I would go after the rear axle before building a engine, you will be surprised just how much of a difference there will be from your highway gears to a new set of 3.89's or better with a traction lock.
I would shoot for around 9 to 9.5 compression. A cheep way ? A set of '88 - '92 builder pistons. They have a slight dish that will help keep you in the low 9 compression range you need to be in with the D3's but you still have to deal with the deck height. I have milled it all off the block before but I wouldn't recommend you do it. It's just a lot to remove and who knows if it will ever crack somewhere ? A safer way, your crank throws could probably use turned by now anyways so have the shop stroke it out as far as they can for .030 over rod bearings. This should bring your pistons up in the hole a good bit so now you can safely mill the rest off the block to get you to zero deck or close. Go through all the pistons and check each ones deck height before the final milling of your block because builder pistons can vary in deck height somewhat. Lastly, figure out how many cc's you need your D3's to be and mill them off, it shouldn't take much to get you there.
I have a 3:50 loaded 9 inch third member that I'm going to be swapping in. I've got a very good machine shop that I use so definitely will have them do all the milling and machine work. I don't trust myself on stuff like that. I'm not terribly worried about the gas because I'm only going to drive this car once in a while seeing as I have 5 or 6 other cars lol.
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