Just completed an EGR delete the poor man's way plugged both ends of the Earth cooler and welded it shut. Starts idles fine problem is the turbo has no boost and the it always defaults to low contribution to number 7. Get out unplug it and then put it back together run a click test and all 8 injectors click off system passed. Starts up hitting on all 8 I can start to see the boost come up on gauge on the dash it's an 05 6.0 it's starts to power up and Bam back to low contribution on number 7. Any ideas would be of help I will draw the line a voodoo ......well maybe voodoo could be the last resort

 

Moved to 6.0L PSD engine forum.

 

New on here didn't know I was stepping on someone's turf

 

If an injector really has an internal issue causing a contribution/balance code, the work you did might just be a coincidence.
For no boost, check all your up pipe connections for exhaust leaks. Also make sure the MAP hose is reconnected to the sensor.

Any other codes besides the injector?

 

You're good, you'll probably just get more responses here being an engine specific question. Do you have anything like a Scangauge or Torque Pro to monitor the gauges in your truck and read codes? What kind of mods do you have besides the EGR delete? Have you done the blue spring fuel pressure regulator update? My first thought with what you're describing is that there isn't enough fuel pressure getting back to the number 7 injector since it's the last in the line on that side. It may idle fine but when you step on the gas, the non updated spring opens up too soon allowing fuel to return from the secondary filter bowl at too low of a pressure. The updated spring would fix that. It's cheap and easy to install and absolutely necessary to protect the injectors if you haven't done it already. If you have, you could always swap the number 7 injector with the number 5 injector or even one from the even side. If the contribution issue follows the swap, it might be an injector issue. If it stays at the number 7 injector, that'd seem more like an electrical/FICM issue. The blue spring would be my first suggestion though if you haven't.

Either way, it's all just guesswork if you don't have a way to monitor your truck in real time, primarily FICM main voltage no lower than 45V, fuel pressure if you have an adapter to run a line to the secondary filter bowl with a gauge. Off the top of my head, fuel pressure should never be below 48psi. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong.

 

For the turbo, check your charge air cooler (CAC) boots. The blue ones that go from the turbo on the passenger side of the turbo to the pass. side intercooler and from the driver side intercooler to the intake manifold. The Ford ones tend to crack and leak, causing low boost. If you have a Scangauge or Torque app, monitor the VGT%. During normal driving should be somewhere around like 50-60%, decreasing during hard acceleration. That's the vanes of the turbo changing their geometry to optimize airflow. They get caked up with soot and stick, causing lack of power. The turbo can be taken apart and cleaned up.

 

Do you have a contribution code for cyl 7 or a circuit low code for cyl 7?

 

Compare the MAP, Baro, and EBP values at KOEO. Check MAP hose for hardening and poor fit on the nipples at each end. Also check the manifold nipple for plugging. Check EBP sensor and tube for plugging.

 

Ran a click test #7 clicked #5 nothing then I gorilla gripped the ficm making sure I had good connection switched them back all 8 clicked off three times in a row and passed as for the no boost changed the hose from intake to map it was so hard it snapped in too cleaned the map sensor it keeps blowing the pipe coming from the intercooler to the intake off at the intercooler end can that cause low or no boost and that's when it defaults to #7 could that combination of events cause these two issues

 

You're not. I'm just putting your question in the forum where you will get the best help.

No worries.

 

Bismic All that I really don't understand kinda new at diesels body paint frame and suspension has been my bread and butter for 40 + yrs about the only thing I truly understood was nipples can you kinda dummy it down a little for me

 

Thanks for helping me out I'm just still trying to get this site figured out

 

MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure (this is the turbo boost at the intake manifold PLUS atmospheric pressure)
Baro - Barometric Pressure sensor (atmospheric pressure)
EBP - Exhaust Back Pressure (exhaust manifold pressure)

Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psig at sea level. That pressure drops as you climb in elevation.

These are three sensors that the computer (PCM) uses to control the turbo operation (via the VGT control valve)

When the key is on, the sensors are active. If the engine is off (KOEO), then all three sensors should read atmospheric pressure. If they don't, then there is something wrong with the sensor that doesn't read atmospheric pressure.

 

That's just what I needed could not get my head around all the different abrevations simple short and easy to follow thanks.

 

There is a TON of collective knowledge specific to our trucks on this site. Spend a few hours reading through the different threads in the tech folder and just searching around the site. I'm no more than a backyard mechanic and 99% of my 6.0 knowledge has been learned on this site and youtube if I need more visuals. It's saved me a ton of money in labor costs as well as having a much better understanding of the intricacies of these engines and knowing what to watch out for before things fail catastrophically.