Preventive work/upgrades?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 167
Likes: 5
Preventive work/upgrades?
Hey guys, what should I be doing as preventive work / improvements on my 2002 7.3? It has about 90k miles on it, regular cab, will be used as daily driver, rarely hauling stuff....
Not talking about basic maintenance like fluids change, filters, etc...
I've heard about these so far:
Many thanks again!
Not talking about basic maintenance like fluids change, filters, etc...
I've heard about these so far:
- HPOP Lines + crossover lines - equalise pressure + replace old hoses before bursting
- CNC Fabrication '99-03 7.3L 4-Line feed fuel bowl retain kit - prevent fuel starvation in cyl 8
- Turbo pedestal seals - this will have to came off to install the 4-Line feed fuel...
Many thanks again!
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 89
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, SC
I went with CNC HPOP lines. Don’t need crossover. Also, CNC Quad fuel lines, bellowed up pipes, riffraff billet wheel, and now famous KC turbine wheel with 270 thrust bearing rebuild kit. I get her back this week. I’ll let you know my thoughts. Also, rebuilt fuel bowl with billet fpr spring from diesel O-rings.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 816
Likes: 7
From: Prescott, AZ
I've done all of those things, but not until 250k. And I used the RiffRaff fuel regulator/line kit. Some say the crossover and the feed line setup is redundant, I have no idea either way.
Mine went to 250k without any of that being done, so I'd say none of that is due in your case yet though many on this site are overly proactive on preventive maintence, myself included. I believe the spec for the HPOP lines is 125k miles, but considering their age, there's probably an argument to be made for changing them now.
Pedestal seals: unless they leak, I don't see a reason to mess with them unless you really feel it's a "while I'm in there" thing. Mine were leaking so it came out, but I don't think the pedestal would have had to come off to do the fuel line kit... undoubtedly easier, but I'm not sure it's impossible with it in place.
If your turbo isn't leaking oil, isn't "dusted", and builds boost to spec, there's only a little to be gained by dropping in a new wheel. Me, I wouldn't touch it unless there's a problem or if you're going to do a performance enhancer - and if it's the latter, there's another whole conversation to have that I'm not qualified to participate in.
One thing to take a look at is the passenger's side fuel line that goes to the back of the head - known to vibrate against the rubber-coated metal hold-down clip, wear the rubber off, and then the clip eats through the line. Mine had significant external diameter reduction in that area, only a matter of time. I installed a new line and re-shaped the clip, put a piece of silicone vacuum hose over the line with a couple tie wraps to keep it from walking off.
If you're taking the turbo out for any reason, good time to look at the up pipes.
An upgraded transmission valve body and 6.0 cooler is never a bad idea, but if you don't tow/haul often or heavy loads, there are plenty of 7.3 transmissions out there that have lived a long and satisfying life. I would still want to monitor lockup and trans temps, which leads us to:
Gauges - boost, EGT, fuel pressure, as well as a display to run TorquePro to get PCM data/pull and clear codes/monitor vitals (among them, trans temp and lockup) will help both predict and diagnose if/when there is an issue.
Mine went to 250k without any of that being done, so I'd say none of that is due in your case yet though many on this site are overly proactive on preventive maintence, myself included. I believe the spec for the HPOP lines is 125k miles, but considering their age, there's probably an argument to be made for changing them now.
Pedestal seals: unless they leak, I don't see a reason to mess with them unless you really feel it's a "while I'm in there" thing. Mine were leaking so it came out, but I don't think the pedestal would have had to come off to do the fuel line kit... undoubtedly easier, but I'm not sure it's impossible with it in place.
If your turbo isn't leaking oil, isn't "dusted", and builds boost to spec, there's only a little to be gained by dropping in a new wheel. Me, I wouldn't touch it unless there's a problem or if you're going to do a performance enhancer - and if it's the latter, there's another whole conversation to have that I'm not qualified to participate in.
One thing to take a look at is the passenger's side fuel line that goes to the back of the head - known to vibrate against the rubber-coated metal hold-down clip, wear the rubber off, and then the clip eats through the line. Mine had significant external diameter reduction in that area, only a matter of time. I installed a new line and re-shaped the clip, put a piece of silicone vacuum hose over the line with a couple tie wraps to keep it from walking off.
If you're taking the turbo out for any reason, good time to look at the up pipes.
An upgraded transmission valve body and 6.0 cooler is never a bad idea, but if you don't tow/haul often or heavy loads, there are plenty of 7.3 transmissions out there that have lived a long and satisfying life. I would still want to monitor lockup and trans temps, which leads us to:
Gauges - boost, EGT, fuel pressure, as well as a display to run TorquePro to get PCM data/pull and clear codes/monitor vitals (among them, trans temp and lockup) will help both predict and diagnose if/when there is an issue.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,813
Likes: 1,335
From: Elk Grove, CA
Great advice above. New HPOP hoses for sure if yours are OE. I'd go Riff Raff FRx instead of CNC 4 line feed, but both are good. Skip the HPOP crossover line, no tangible benefit and another place to leak. A modern billet wheel like the 4/4 Riff Raff is a substantial upgrade IMO, and if going in that deep bellowed up pipes, boots, and plenum reinforcements for sure.
Do you need to pass a smog inspection in your area?
Do you need to pass a smog inspection in your area?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 167
Likes: 5
Nothing yet, I just got it and the previous owner has fitted the 4" Magnaflow. Everything else is stock engine-wise.
Yes we do have it once a year.
Tks Mike, tha't great! I'm not planning on doing much to it, but wouldn't mind little upgrades/improvements to prevent things from going wrong.
Great advice above. New HPOP hoses for sure if yours are OE. I'd go Riff Raff FRx instead of CNC 4 line feed, but both are good. Skip the HPOP crossover line, no tangible benefit and another place to leak. A modern billet wheel like the 4/4 Riff Raff is a substantial upgrade IMO, and if going in that deep bellowed up pipes, boots, and plenum reinforcements for sure.
Do you need to pass a smog inspection in your area?
Do you need to pass a smog inspection in your area?
I've done all of those things, but not until 250k. And I used the RiffRaff fuel regulator/line kit. Some say the crossover and the feed line setup is redundant, I have no idea either way.
Mine went to 250k without any of that being done, so I'd say none of that is due in your case yet though many on this site are overly proactive on preventive maintence, myself included. I believe the spec for the HPOP lines is 125k miles, but considering their age, there's probably an argument to be made for changing them now.
Pedestal seals: unless they leak, I don't see a reason to mess with them unless you really feel it's a "while I'm in there" thing. Mine were leaking so it came out, but I don't think the pedestal would have had to come off to do the fuel line kit... undoubtedly easier, but I'm not sure it's impossible with it in place.
If your turbo isn't leaking oil, isn't "dusted", and builds boost to spec, there's only a little to be gained by dropping in a new wheel. Me, I wouldn't touch it unless there's a problem or if you're going to do a performance enhancer - and if it's the latter, there's another whole conversation to have that I'm not qualified to participate in.
One thing to take a look at is the passenger's side fuel line that goes to the back of the head - known to vibrate against the rubber-coated metal hold-down clip, wear the rubber off, and then the clip eats through the line. Mine had significant external diameter reduction in that area, only a matter of time. I installed a new line and re-shaped the clip, put a piece of silicone vacuum hose over the line with a couple tie wraps to keep it from walking off.
If you're taking the turbo out for any reason, good time to look at the up pipes.
An upgraded transmission valve body and 6.0 cooler is never a bad idea, but if you don't tow/haul often or heavy loads, there are plenty of 7.3 transmissions out there that have lived a long and satisfying life. I would still want to monitor lockup and trans temps, which leads us to:
Gauges - boost, EGT, fuel pressure, as well as a display to run TorquePro to get PCM data/pull and clear codes/monitor vitals (among them, trans temp and lockup) will help both predict and diagnose if/when there is an issue.
Mine went to 250k without any of that being done, so I'd say none of that is due in your case yet though many on this site are overly proactive on preventive maintence, myself included. I believe the spec for the HPOP lines is 125k miles, but considering their age, there's probably an argument to be made for changing them now.
Pedestal seals: unless they leak, I don't see a reason to mess with them unless you really feel it's a "while I'm in there" thing. Mine were leaking so it came out, but I don't think the pedestal would have had to come off to do the fuel line kit... undoubtedly easier, but I'm not sure it's impossible with it in place.
If your turbo isn't leaking oil, isn't "dusted", and builds boost to spec, there's only a little to be gained by dropping in a new wheel. Me, I wouldn't touch it unless there's a problem or if you're going to do a performance enhancer - and if it's the latter, there's another whole conversation to have that I'm not qualified to participate in.
One thing to take a look at is the passenger's side fuel line that goes to the back of the head - known to vibrate against the rubber-coated metal hold-down clip, wear the rubber off, and then the clip eats through the line. Mine had significant external diameter reduction in that area, only a matter of time. I installed a new line and re-shaped the clip, put a piece of silicone vacuum hose over the line with a couple tie wraps to keep it from walking off.
If you're taking the turbo out for any reason, good time to look at the up pipes.
An upgraded transmission valve body and 6.0 cooler is never a bad idea, but if you don't tow/haul often or heavy loads, there are plenty of 7.3 transmissions out there that have lived a long and satisfying life. I would still want to monitor lockup and trans temps, which leads us to:
Gauges - boost, EGT, fuel pressure, as well as a display to run TorquePro to get PCM data/pull and clear codes/monitor vitals (among them, trans temp and lockup) will help both predict and diagnose if/when there is an issue.
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 167
Likes: 5
Great advice above. New HPOP hoses for sure if yours are OE. I'd go Riff Raff FRx instead of CNC 4 line feed, but both are good. Skip the HPOP crossover line, no tangible benefit and another place to leak. A modern billet wheel like the 4/4 Riff Raff is a substantial upgrade IMO, and if going in that deep bellowed up pipes, boots, and plenum reinforcements for sure.
Do you need to pass a smog inspection in your area?
Do you need to pass a smog inspection in your area?
Many thanks! Again!
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 89
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, SC
Set a budget! Otherwise this is what will happen to you.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-from-pms.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-from-pms.html
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 816
Likes: 7
From: Prescott, AZ
As others have mentioned, it can be a very deep rabbit hole and unless you have a checkbook to match, you need to set boundaries. Having thrown a lot of money at upgrades, if I had it to do again, I might have gone in a different direction like the trans upgrades first. But with 250k miles on mine, it probably wasn't a mistake to replace anything that's been turning, flowing, baking, or conducting electricity for that long.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 167
Likes: 5
US$2k in small improvements/preventive maintenance is what I'm thinking now... not looking for extra horse power (but wouldn't mind if can get a bit extra out of it)... don't wanna get into the level of going for bigger injectors/tuners and stuff as such purely for more HP. All i want is a well sorted / smooth / reliable engine.
What I noticed so far is a small mist of oil around the turbo pedestal, that's how it all started
So I thought.... well, if I'm replacing the seals, why not invest a little to improve what's around, so I'll do the job once... 18 years old turbo... why not freshen it up? Known issues with fuel starvation? Well... easier to improve it if turbo is off... so one thing leads to another ...
rubbers also perish.. maybe new one?
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 260
Likes: 6
From: Southern Middle TN
Havent seen anyone mention Hutch/Harpoon Mod yet. It was one of my first Mod's I made.
Lots of post's on this Mod here on FTE. Just search Hutch Mod.
I went with the Racor 120 prefilter option on my truck and I'm very pleased with how it came out.
Lots of post's on this Mod here on FTE. Just search Hutch Mod.
I went with the Racor 120 prefilter option on my truck and I'm very pleased with how it came out.
Last edited by slowsure; Apr 1, 2019 at 04:28 PM. Reason: Add Racor comment
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,354
Likes: 5,946
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
This was and still is one of my favorite modifications/maintenance items to accomplish. It not only made the truck quieter, it allowed me to fill up at the commercial diesel pumps. It allowed for me to fill the tank without it throwing up fuel on me and stopping when it was full instead of when the bubbles reached the top also allowed for me to have peace of mind when the gauge goes below 1/4 tank.
Here is my thread from when I did the H/H mod.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ne-almost.html
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 167
Likes: 5
Good point!
This was and still is one of my favorite modifications/maintenance items to accomplish. It not only made the truck quieter, it allowed me to fill up at the commercial diesel pumps. It allowed for me to fill the tank without it throwing up fuel on me and stopping when it was full instead of when the bubbles reached the top also allowed for me to have peace of mind when the gauge goes below 1/4 tank.
Here is my thread from when I did the H/H mod.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ne-almost.html
This was and still is one of my favorite modifications/maintenance items to accomplish. It not only made the truck quieter, it allowed me to fill up at the commercial diesel pumps. It allowed for me to fill the tank without it throwing up fuel on me and stopping when it was full instead of when the bubbles reached the top also allowed for me to have peace of mind when the gauge goes below 1/4 tank.
Here is my thread from when I did the H/H mod.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ne-almost.html