Ok, for the first time since I got the truck, I have attempted to get some MPG measurements... not that I really wanted to know lol
Managed 19mpg (US measures) / 23mpg (UK measures), 75% motorway miles, cruising around 70/80 MPH, 500 miles trip, empty rear bed.
Sounds pretty decent to me considering I'm running 37" ToyoOpen Country and 6" lift, so not the most aerodynamic package.
What are you guys getting?

 

17 just recently, around town, around some woods, just run everything stock for simplicity. Usually best with a fresh new air filter; personal best is 21 on nice long 60 mph cruise.

 

If thinking about installing a new EBP tube, painting the new tube ahead of time prior to installation may prolong it's life before succumbing to surface corrosion.

I used very high temperature paint (VHT) header paint to tolerate the exhaust manifold heat, and chose Satin Clear so that neither the new paint, nor the eventual or gradual loss of said paint, would be apparent either way.



Below you can see the updated bend design that facilitates removing and replacing the EBP tube for trucks with Dual Alternators. The new design is easier to install for single alternator trucks as well.



.

 

I'm getting incredulous.
My truck, however, is getting 10 mpg.
Stock.

 

Last time I checked a couple years ago, I was getting 15-18 mpg. I'm in the middle of doing it again now. Want to get 1 more tank in to see an overall average.

Question on the EBP tube cleaning. What is the consensus on how often you should clean it?

 

Check EBP with a scan tool like Torque Pro or FORScan, if it shows a lively bump when you goose it, the tube and sensor are fine. IMO there are too many variables to specify a time or mileage.

Best ever hand calculated MPG for me was 19.2 but I was on the flats at no more than 65 mph.

Y2K thanks for posting up the pic of the updated tube! Always wondered what was different. Ain't much but when playing Operation that's all it takes.

 

Mixed driving gets me 18.5 unloaded and 13.5 with 12,000 lbs 5th wheel attached.

 

Hey @Y2KW57 , tks for the pics!
Do you have the PN for the new tube?
Many thanks

 

The old style EBP tube has not been made or available from Ford for the last 18 years, making it very near impossible for the Ford counterman to hand you a tube that doesn't have the updated extra bend.

If you try buying new old stock on eBay, and the part begins with "F81Z", THEN you might have found a true RipVanWrinkle... don't bid.

I bought the updated part shown in my photos above, waaaay back in late 2001 or early 2002. So that should give you an idea how long Ford has been selling the updated version.

Because of Ford's automatic part supersession system, I don't think you'll need to worry about getting the right/wrong tube when getting the part from Ford, but the part number for the revised tube is 1C3Z-9D477-AA.

Expect to pay between $40 to $46 at a Ford Dealer (list price is higher).

You can find an aftermarket tube on Amazon made by "RPG" for only $17 (Amazon changes prices day by day, search by search, person by person).. HOWEVER, the genuine Ford tube is made of Stainless Steel. What is the RPG tube made of? What is the wall thickness of the tubing? How distorted are the inside diameters at the bends? And those bends... the reviews say they are different than the original production tube... then again, so are the bends of the OEM Ford replacement. The question is, are the different bends in the RPG the same bends as the Ford genuine replacement? Or are they just differences from cheaper Chinese production methods.? For the $23 difference in price, it isn't worth it to me to find out.

 

Hey @Y2KW57 , tks a lot, good to know the detail about the PN change. I'm with you, no willing to find out the quality of the cheaper tube for the sake of 20 odd US$.
Tks for you help!

 

I found a new ground point today. That was a surprise. I changed the strap on the trans a while back, and keep the ones in the engine compartment factory fresh. But have never asked for a complete list of all of them...

This one is on the inside of the frame rail, driver side, about a foot back from the rear shock.

You would never see this unless your spare tire was out of it's cubbyhole for some other reason. Maybe when doing service on the rear diff.

I would have liked to had an angle grinder with a wire wheel on it to really get some clean metal to lay the ground terminal back on to, but I did what I could.

That part of the frame, up above the tire, is probably the roughest area on my truck, which has largely, but not completely, lived a salt free life until just lately. Not easy to get a rinse up in there on a warm day in the winter. Maybe I will keep the spare tire in the bed next winter.

 

Ok, since I started this thread, not much has happened, as I was still trying to trace the oil leak on the valley before buying parts.
And I managed to find it yesterday... I should have fount it a month ago to be honest... but my lack of knowledge about the truck (and lack of common sense to be honest...)stopped me from finding it before.
The first time I've done a clean up, was when I fitted my new intake system. So got the intercooler pipes and boots off for a good clean, and all the intake the would be replaced up to the turbo. But I din't remove the spider, as I thought I would disturb the turbo, and I didn't have new turbo seals in hand at the time (which I thought was the cause of the leak), so decided not to touch it.
But after some reading here, I found out that removing the spider is dead simple and does not disturb the turbo... I'm such a beginner lol
So I went for it yesterday as I could do a better clean on the valley with the spider off, which would help to ID the leak.
The clamps on the plenum boots were a bit loose... actually they were rattling loose, to the point where I could undo the worm clamp bolt by hand. No wonder there was oil all around it. And I can't believe I didn't check such a basic think las time...
Got it all removed, cleaned and re-installed. Now, more monitoring. But will order new boots and plenum reinforcement with new clamps, which will be much cheaper than I initially thought.
And now the funds I had for this repair (which I was planing to add bellowed up-pipes while turbo was off), will probably go towards a mishimoto tranny cooler
And also found that my HPOP lines were not the original ones as I thought. They were braided (the stock ones are not, right?), and all tight at the connectors and bone dry, so will leave as they are too.

 

Get the RiffRaff plenum inserts, plenum boots and upgraded clamps. and clean everything up really good. That is a good little beginner project. In fact if you are going to go that far you might as well pull the turbo out and do the upper and lower pedestal o-rings and maybe swap to a blank pedestal and delete the EBPV while at it (another oil leak waiting to happen)

The HPOP lines sound like the original ones to me...mine are braided stainless also. The newer upgraded ones are not I don't think. I will be getting around to that one myself at some point soon but at your mileage you can probably let that go for awhile if the fittings are not leaking. Just keep an eye on it.

The EBP tube I would just replace with a new one. Good chance it is rusted out and cracked or about to crack. Mine was totally rusted out on a bent spot and not holding pressure at all. The sensor might be fine but you can check that with ForScan or Torque Pro to see if it is reading right before spending money on a new one. Maybe help MPG a little.

Riff-Raff FRx or CNC's equivalent kit is not a bad idea. I still have to do that one mine. People say it smooths out the engine and makes throttle response a little crisper.

 

Yeap,
All nice and clean now, can eat off the valley
The RiffRaff stuff is already in my shopping list, along with new EBP tube and sensor.
Ok, I thought the braided HPOP lines were the aftermarket ones.... tks! I'll keep a closer eye on them then. But so far all connectors are bone dry, so I'll just monitor for now.
Same with the turbo seal. I'll leave them for now too, and will get them replaced when doing bellowed up pipes / EBPV delete pedestal and FRx lines all at once, hopefully in the near future.
So will spend some money with mishimoto tranny cooler now, as it sounds like a good "insurance" policy for a high ticket item

 

Forget about the mishimoto trans cooler and get the one from Riffraff. It's on special now and it is the Ford 6.0 cooler. Mine works great. Never have hot trans towing my toy hauler.