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You can use any 4 or 8 gauge wire. I use 4 gauge myself and I buy rolls of pure copper welding wire. Add my own connectors with a crimping tool and done.+
While your in there you may as well replace any ground wires too. Like the grounding to block and frame.
I would recommend avoiding generic parts house replacement cables when possible. They are not made with good materials. For the same money can get high quality cables and terminals from a Tractor supply or welding outfit with terminals pre-installed with a good crimp. Those cables in the pic are original Ford. They weren't bad when new but they are shot now. The blister-pac cables commonly seen today are OK for a small 4 or 6 cylinder car probably but that's about it, they have thick insulation, and hardly any copper. There are some cable sellers on eBay if none are available locally. Just need to know the length and ring size.
You can use any 4 or 8 gauge wire. I use 4 gauge myself and I buy rolls of pure copper welding wire. Add my own connectors with a crimping tool and done.+
While your in there you may as well replace any ground wires too. Like the grounding to block and frame.
Agreed ^^X2^^.
I wouldn't be surprised if you can't locate any such ground cables. They have a way of coming off over the years and not getting put back on.......... if that is the case - you should add some. Your truck will thank you for it.
Ideally, ensure there is a grounding cable from the block to the frame and from the block to the firewall. Make the cables ~ two inches longer than needed to allow some engine to body to frame flexing. Scruff/shine up the attachment locations to ensure a clean contact then bolt the cables on, and lastly spray the attachment bolts with a sealer to prevent corrosion in the future.
Also agree with the Tedster9,,, you can buy & build much better cables than you can buy in a blister package.....
You can do the "as long as I'm in there might as well..." too. Clean the starter face and block where they mate from any paint or grime. The solenoid starter relay needs a good ground too.
Where does the negative battery cable terminate on your engine, to the block or the frame, or at the firewall?
They were kind of cheap with the wire lengths back then and did things like that. They took a circuitous route with about 5 different connections. Today I run a heavy negative cable directly to the block, a bolt near the starter. Another cable to the frame just like in the pic, and a firewall to block connection strap, up by the distributor/heads. With fresh cables all around it will start zippier and charge better.
You can use any 4 or 8 gauge wire. I use 4 gauge myself and I buy rolls of pure copper welding wire.
Is that something you can pick up at an auto parts store?
Yes, I'm that green.
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I buy my cable from a welding supply company and I have also purchased it on Amazon when I was in a pinch. Amazon has the good stuff if you look for welding cable.
I buy my cable from a welding supply company and I have also purchased it on Amazon when I was in a pinch. Amazon has the good stuff if you look for welding cable.
I just buy it (and have to pay a little more) with terminals already installed (good ones, solid copper with a tin wash) from someone who already has a good crimper. The welding supply people can usually do this. I don't think it's wise though to try and jury rig the terminals by the average DIYer.
A solid crimp is by far the best connection for this purpose, but I don't want to spend $900 for the crimper tool cuz I wouldn't use it enough. I think I was able to fit the whole '64 with 00 cables all the way around from an eBay seller for $30 or $40, delivered. Just have to measure the old ones. Good quality cable doesn't really cost much more, if anything than the el-cheapo stuff. There is a difference for sure.
The cheap cables use poor quality terminals that loosen up after one or two uses, and they are done, and they usually try to hide thin copper under extra thick insulation. Then you haven't saved any money.
I use this crimping tool for all my crimping needs on large gauge wire and I have never ran into any issues. I use very high quality copper terminals as well that i buy from an electronics warehouse near me.
Unrelated to your particular issue: Starters on these trucks can suffer heat soak and when hot have issues starting. Almost like your battery is dead. Wrapping the starter with a heat shield works well. You can buy heat shield starter sleeves pretty cheap. I'm not saying you need to do this just throwing it out there.
Unrelated to your particular issue: Starters on these trucks can suffer heat soak and when hot have issues starting. Almost like your battery is dead. Wrapping the starter with a heat shield works well. You can buy heat shield starter sleeves pretty cheap. I'm not saying you need to do this just throwing it out there.
I'll add to what Amish65F100 said - the heat shield he recommends is MANDATORY if you install headers on your engine....especially if you're running a V8. Headers add much more heat into the engine compartment and are very close to the starter. With my 390-V8 powered '65, I went through 2 starters before I installed a heat shield; no problems over the many years since.
