LED Conversion

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Mar 30, 2019 | 12:07 AM

#16

TXTrailerdaddy

Thread Starter

Tuned

Joined: Mar 2002

Posts: 285

Likes: 1

From: San Antonio, TX, USA

These scotch clips have silicone in them. I mean there's nothing to keep it there unless you wrap it I guess, but it doesn't really need much since you shouldn't be submerging them.

May 14, 2019 | 08:22 PM

#17

John89

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Jul 2017

Posts: 1,448

Likes: 163

From: East Texas

Has anyone found a "no load" flasher that works? Part # and source if you have please.

May 14, 2019 | 09:00 PM

#18

biasvoltage

5th Wheeling

Joined: Sep 2018

Posts: 40

Likes: 2

so instead of using current to light up an incandescent bulb, you turn the same amount into heat using a resistor - what then, do you gain by using the LED bulbs?

May 14, 2019 | 09:13 PM

#19

John89

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Jul 2017

Posts: 1,448

Likes: 163

From: East Texas

If the correct flasher can be used/found, less current draw and brighter lights.

May 14, 2019 | 09:17 PM

#20

samr.820

Senior User

Joined: May 2018

Posts: 125

Likes: 2

Quote:

Originally Posted by John89

Has anyone found a "no load" flasher that works? Part # and source if you have please.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F133001600861

Works great and super easy to install. One note is that it keeps clicking audibly for a few clicks after the signal is off-no big deal. Bunch of different sellers on eBay but I’m sure they are all the same as long as they have the same look. I have led bulbs in my taillights and halogen in the front and it has the appropriate delay.

May 14, 2019 | 09:40 PM

#21

John89

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Jul 2017

Posts: 1,448

Likes: 163

From: East Texas

Thanks. Looking on ebay now.

May 14, 2019 | 10:39 PM

#22

resonateur

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Jan 2014

Posts: 1,946

Likes: 118

Purchased the electronic flasher from superbrightleds.com and it worked fine. All my bulbs are led, except the headlights. Much brighter than incandesents, to answer the query from biasvoltage.

May 14, 2019 | 10:59 PM

#23

54Hydro

Laughing Gas

Joined: Aug 2012

Posts: 920

Likes: 20

From: Malheur Co. OR

Quote:

Originally Posted by TXTrailerdaddy

These scotch clips have silicone in them. I mean there's nothing to keep it there unless you wrap it I guess, but it doesn't really need much since you shouldn't be submerging them.

I hate these things. They have given me many headaches as a technician on everything from tractors, to cars, to semis. Just because they aren't getting submerged doesn't mean they aren't allowing road spray, chemicals, and any salts to blow into the compromised insulation and cause corrosion of the copper wire. I will only use those in interior applications for factory accessories I install. That way there is a warranty for the customer. I have quite literally had to rewire an entire 53' semi trailer that had used nothing but these pieces of crap for splices. Use a butt connector with a self sealing heat shrink, or better yet solder and self sealing heat shrink.

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May 14, 2019 | 11:02 PM

#24

TXTrailerdaddy

Thread Starter

Tuned

Joined: Mar 2002

Posts: 285

Likes: 1

From: San Antonio, TX, USA

Quote:

Originally Posted by biasvoltage

so instead of using current to light up an incandescent bulb, you turn the same amount into heat using a resistor - what then, do you gain by using the LED bulbs?

Well it's not like your flashers run all the time, so it's not a tremendous load. Most of the gain is with the brightness. Heat gain is negligible unless you are one of those people who drive 30 miles with your blinker on.