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LED Conversion

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  #16  
Old 03-30-2019, 12:07 AM
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These scotch clips have silicone in them. I mean there's nothing to keep it there unless you wrap it I guess, but it doesn't really need much since you shouldn't be submerging them.
 
  #17  
Old 05-14-2019, 08:22 PM
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Has anyone found a "no load" flasher that works? Part # and source if you have please.
 
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:00 PM
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so instead of using current to light up an incandescent bulb, you turn the same amount into heat using a resistor - what then, do you gain by using the LED bulbs?
 
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:13 PM
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If the correct flasher can be used/found, less current draw and brighter lights.
 
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by John89
Has anyone found a "no load" flasher that works? Part # and source if you have please.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F133001600861


Works great and super easy to install. One note is that it keeps clicking audibly for a few clicks after the signal is off-no big deal. Bunch of different sellers on eBay but I’m sure they are all the same as long as they have the same look. I have led bulbs in my taillights and halogen in the front and it has the appropriate delay.


 
  #21  
Old 05-14-2019, 09:40 PM
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Thanks. Looking on ebay now.
 
  #22  
Old 05-14-2019, 10:39 PM
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Purchased the electronic flasher from superbrightleds.com and it worked fine. All my bulbs are led, except the headlights. Much brighter than incandesents, to answer the query from biasvoltage.
 
  #23  
Old 05-14-2019, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by TXTrailerdaddy
These scotch clips have silicone in them. I mean there's nothing to keep it there unless you wrap it I guess, but it doesn't really need much since you shouldn't be submerging them.
I hate these things. They have given me many headaches as a technician on everything from tractors, to cars, to semis. Just because they aren't getting submerged doesn't mean they aren't allowing road spray, chemicals, and any salts to blow into the compromised insulation and cause corrosion of the copper wire. I will only use those in interior applications for factory accessories I install. That way there is a warranty for the customer. I have quite literally had to rewire an entire 53' semi trailer that had used nothing but these pieces of crap for splices. Use a butt connector with a self sealing heat shrink, or better yet solder and self sealing heat shrink.
 
  #24  
Old 05-14-2019, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by biasvoltage
so instead of using current to light up an incandescent bulb, you turn the same amount into heat using a resistor - what then, do you gain by using the LED bulbs?
Well it's not like your flashers run all the time, so it's not a tremendous load. Most of the gain is with the brightness. Heat gain is negligible unless you are one of those people who drive 30 miles with your blinker on.
 
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