I just bought a 2002 F250 7.3 with ZF 6 speed (08 needs to be rebuilt when I have time). New brakes callipers backing plates and parking brakes and cables and new LED headlights. Got it safetied now I need to fix the cosmetics. The cruise control isn't working? I replaced the brake pressure switch and a new Parking brake switch. Still doesn't work. So now I am thinking clock spring.

When you hold the ON and hit coast the horn sounds. I would say absolutely clock spring, if the horn wasn't working on the push pad too. Doesn't seem to have a dash light when push the ON button, but not sure about that though.

Any ideas what else it could be? Anybody have wiring diagram 2002 to 2004? TIA

 

 

Thanks Dave

The airbag detonating is the only thing that scares me.

- Al

 

 

There will be no light when you turn the cruise ON. When you set your speed a little green speedometer light on the dash will come on showing you've set your speed.

https://www.bbbind.com/tsb-wiring-diagrams/

I'm not sure the minimum wait time but after you disconnect the batteries there will be a point that the circuit will discharge and there will be no chance of detonation.

What that wait time is I don't know.

 

Update:
As previously mention brake Pressure switch Changed
I've change the clock spring. No change, Horn sstill sounds when you hold the on and coast buttons

I replaced the steering wheel buttons. no change except the horn stops sounding when hold the on and coast buttons. So there is an improvement

Since the wiring goes through the air bag replace that as well still no change. I've had the air bag out so much I don't even wait for the system to de-energize anymore.

The link to the wiring diagram doesn't work for me Brian. I bought the truck from a french guy and they like to cut wires in the hopes of improving something never usually goes well. If it wasn't a 7.3 with ZF-6 I would normal just ran away. I need to chase every last wire figure out where the problem is hiding.

 

Anybody have a wiring diagram?????

 

could it be the sensor in the rear end? I have read many different posts about cruise not working but every case is slightly different. only thing left i think is the sensor in the rearend I believe.
I hope you can get it figured out.

 

Looks like they changed domains. Here is there new one I found:

https://www.bbbind.com/tsb-wiring-diagrams/

Unfortunately I have unloaded my shop manuals so I cannot PDF the diagrams you are looking for.

 

I have a 2003 7.3 6spd and when my cruise went out I believe it was the brake pedal sensor. I also lost the cold weather high idle. When I was looking there was the brake pedal sensor, the parking brake sensor and I believe the clutch pedal has a sensor as well. Have you looked at the clutch pedal?

 

Having the same issue. I can set my cruise by clicking the ON button and then to set it I click the OFF button..LOL . Resume button works like normal.

 

I'm fighting this as well. I've been through everything- master cyl pressure switch, inspected the servo inside and out, cable, cleaned the throttle body (it was sticking), cleaned the steering wheel buttons and looked for twists/pinches/shorts, ran the self tests. Still an intermittent cruise cutout problem.
Now the effing brake pedal postion sensor, aka stoplight switch-- The contacts looked worn on the original, so I got a new Standard Motor switch. Installed it; nothing, not even a blip from the cruise. Went from intermittent to zero. Hmmmm......put the OEM one back in, now it's back to the original intermittent problem. So I went and got a generic NAPA cheapie. Same result. Then I took the OE switch body and put new contacts in it from the aftermarket switches. Worked OK for a couple days, then back to the same crap.
Meanwhile, I had to head out on a fishing trip. Hooked my boat up, and ran 200 miles up into the mountains. Cruise worked flawlessly the whole way there and back, no matter if was on the flat interstate or in the hills. 400 miles towing a 6000 lb boat, no cruise issues whatsoever. Plus a week of running around while we were there. No problems.
Got home, unhooked the boat, and the first trip I took into town,the cruise quit again. W...T...F.
Forgot about it for a while, too many other things to do. Then last week I decided to get a new OEM switch from Ford (Motorcraft). The new one was was identical to the OE in every way, made by Pollak. Installed it, and nothing. Dead cruise again. I drove it for a day like that, then all of a sudden the cruise started working. Well, okay. Seemed good for a day or two. I'm thinking "Maybe the contacts needed to break in and "seat" themselves. I couldn't think of any other explanation. But then, sure enough, it started cutting out again.
Now I'm thinking about the brake booster possibly leaking and pulling the pedal in just enough to contact the switch. Who knows?

 

I changed the pressure switch on the master cylinder and no luck. I did find if I pulled up on the brake pedal, with my foot, and kind of wiggled it, the cruise control would engage like normal.