Hello all,

I realize I'm a bit of a wordy writer, so I've bolded all the important information for you :P
I've been going thru and fixing the small things on my 1983 F-150 -- standard cab short bed, 300-6 4WD -- over the past year and a half.

One thing that's always been bothering me is the deflection and unusual noises coming from the clutch linkage.
Last summer, I took everything apart to go through it. I replaced the cracked pedal assembly and put in new bushings, I had a friend weld and drill a few of the holes that had been worn into ovals, I replaced the equalizer bar bushings, and I bought a new release fork pushrod since my old one was beyond repair.

Despite my best attempts to fix the linkage, it's still rather sloppy. When I push the clutch to the floor, I can see the steering column and dashboard lift up, the brake pedal moves to the right, and the shifters move towards me. It creaks pretty loudly too, and despite my liberal application of silicone spray, I can't make it go away. My "new" pedal assembly bracket is also getting quite twisted from this, and I don't want to break another one...
After putting a camera under the hood, I realized the entire cab is being lifted off the frame when I push the clutch in.

This leads me to think I need new body mounts. The energy from pushing the pedal will take the path of least resistance, and if my mounts are worn out (they appear original) then it makes sense that it would rather lift the cab than disengage the clutch!!

I've done some searching online, but there aren't many options for new mounts. I'm living on a college student's budget and I'm trying to save money while taking care of my vehicle, so good value is important to me!
I found one kit here for about $80, and I found another kit here for only $55. Obviously I'm turned on to the cheaper option.

I'd like to ask if anyone here has experience with buying body mounts -- and seeing how long they last and how well they do their job!
In addition to that, if anyone has any tips on more ways I can help my clutch linkage, I am willing to do what I can to prevent something else from breaking or getting worn out. Let me know if you need more information.

Thanks all,
- COS

 

 

I've heard several guys bragging about prothane bushings, most of the sets I've found were something like $170. I found a set on ebay for $50 or $60, think I went the with $60 set but wont know for sure until i look at the invoice. I have them in, they look great, haven't installed them, or compared to original. Will be awhile before mine get installed. Mine look identical to the second set

 

can always just use some bolts and hockey pucks for a cheap body mount tell you get more cash later in life.

 

I just did a side by side with the prothane and my old bushings, not 100% accurate since they're still mounted on the truck. But, the height was spot on, od is smaller on the new ones, but looks like the id is going to be a good match. New ones appear to be a higher durometer.

 

You have a hydraulic clutch since it's a 1983 correct? Or is it manual linkage? I can see the clutch putting pressure on the whole cab if it was the mechanical linkage system, the clutch linkage force acts against the pedal assembly mounted under the dash, and the bell crank mounted on the frame.

But if you have a hydraulic clutch, I don't see how the clutch assembly can make the cab move on the frame mounts, all the pressure is between the pedal assembly and the clutch master mounted on the cab firewall. If you do have a hydraulic clutch, I think it is safe to say you have the very common firewall cracking problem. You can see if that guy is still making the repair plate for it.

 

If the cab is raising up when you step on the clutch there is something else besides bushing being bad going on.
Look over the whole mounting set up, lift the rug / mat up and check the floor.
Floor rusted out? The body cab mount is spot welded to the floor pan and if no pan then no mount to hold cab from moving.
Pull the little oval body bolt cover off, 2 small screws, and check the bolt head is it still there or rusted away?
With a helper have them push the clutch in and look down in that hole to see what is going on.
Then move under and have the helper push the clutch in again. You said you saw the body lift but take a closer look is the gap between the cab body mount & floor or cab body mount and the rubber?
If rubber & cab mount why? Rusted bolt head? How did that look from above when pushed? Could the bolt / washer cracked the cab body mount and the cab lifting? You would be able to see this from inside looking into the oval hole.
If that all checks out, bolt / washer lifting when looking from inside and there is a gap between cab body mount and the rubber then maybe a rusted / broken bolt? When happens when you try to turn the bolt dose it just spin / loose? Could be rusted / broken then.

Of the 2 trucks I had / have, parts truck / project truck, even with a rusted floor pan the cab was tight to the frame so you got something else going on in my book.
Thinking cracked cab body mount or rusted / broken bolt.
Dave ----

 

I would say he has manual linkage because he said he had to weld on holes and re-drill then to make them round again, been there done that myself on my 81.

Canofspam needs to look closer under the dash after the cab lift is fixed to see if there is a brace or something broken or missing and why the dash / pedal flexing.
I have not seen that with mine.
My (new) clutch is pretty easy to move, can push with my hand, but it snapped the bell crank pivot at the motor once.
Dave ----

 

Correct, it's the mechanical linkage. IIRC the hydraulic linkage was for 460/diesel only in 1983 and all applications in 1984.

Thank you for the guidance, Dave, I will try to go today and look at everything. I can try to attach the video to this post in the meantime, if that would help.
My clutch is heavier than any other vehicle I've driven in recent memory, but I can push it with my hand. I feel like it should be lighter.
In junkyards I've used other mechanical linkage clutches in these trucks and they often times are smoother and quieter with less flex on parts.

I would not be too surprised if the body mount and/or the bolt has bit the dust.
I felt around the exposed part of the mount from underneath the frame and it is pretty petrified on there.

 

I'm just in the process of installing new cab mounts in my '84, and I just removed the mounts from my '85 frame this morning. I went with the stock replacements from LMC. They sell all of the mounts individually, so I can't tell you how much they were as a "kit". I just made a "tool" to remove the lower mounts...see picture below. I used a short piece of 3" exhaust pipe (I had to cut it to open it up just a little) and used the bolt from the mount with my impact gun to "press" the bottom mounts off. Worked like a charm.



I can't comment on how long the mounts will last, but the originals lasted for 35 years, so the replacements will last long enough for what I'm doing with the truck. PS: If you do end up ordering mounts from LMC let me know because there are a couple mistakes in their catalog. You will get the wrong parts if you order them as they are listed.

Take a floor jack and lift the cab up on each side and see if any of the mounts are loose on the frame. You can use a piece of 2x4 on the bottom of the rocker panel, and a short piece of wood between the 2x4 and your jack. What's pretty common is the brackets on the frame rust out and the mount will get loose (if you're in the rust belt like me). Check the driver's side first as it always rusts out first.

Edit to add: If you're on a budget, check the cab mounts (by lifting the cab) and see if you can find one that is bad/loose, and then replace only that mount. Might be a cheaper option.

 

Thanks Cory I was thinking of the jack to check the mounts, might be better than having a helper press the clutch down, just did not post it
If his bolt is broken he would not be able to do the removal like you have done.
If not a broken bolt and don't think the cause is the rubber part of the mount, he would have to figure what it is and a fix.

I did not replace any of the mounts on mine, hope it does not come back to bit me
I tried to give some love but got to spread it
Dave ----

 

Alright, I just went with a helper and tested a few things out.

I pulled the carpet back and took the body mount cover off, to find the bolt and floor pan in perfect shape. I put a wrench on the bolt and found it to be very tight, and unable to be spun in place. From the bottom, it was the same way.


Bolt is present and surrounding sheet metal is intact

Floor pan is solid save for a rust gash along the threshold, mostly hidden by the black rocker trim.


My friend pushed the clutch and immediately noticed the slight movement in the steering wheel, but when I looked under the hood, I could not see much movement with my own eyes.
Looking under the truck, I could barely tell that the cab was lifting. The body mount bushings did not seem to move at all, either.

My friend looked under the hood while I pushed the clutch. He said he could see the engine moving forward and back slightly when I pushed the clutch in and out.
This would explain why the transmission and t-case shifters move around a bit too.
I've also noticed a sharp metal-on-metal clunking noise occasionally, when I turn sharp or otherwise induce weight transfer at low speeds. This could be because of bad engine mounts.
The engine mounts -look- fine, but they also look old and they feel rock solid. New engine mounts might therefore be a good idea.


This is the driver's side engine mount. Nothing looks too bad, but the rubber part has no give to it whatsoever.

This still doesn't totally explain why the steering column moves. Maybe the frame is forced to flex, which moves the steering box in and out and changes the column angle?

I tracked down the loud and worrisome creaking and groaning noises to the bellcrank and clutch fork area.
I put liberal amounts of silicone lube on all of the joints in the system, and on the clutch fork where the pushrod contacts it. I also sprayed some up into the dash where the upper return spring lies.
The clutch pedal is now much quieter, and moves smoother when you release it slowly.

I definitely feel better about it now, since my cab mounts look okay and I got rid of the noise.
Maybe I'll go for new engine mounts, and then see if the cab play gets better.

 

You should also check / change the trany mount as that being bad will let the motor / trany move around also.
Dave ----

 

tranny bolts loose?

 

I actually did the same thing last week. The exhaust pipe worked great. I didn't have to cut mine to widen it but did have to cut a very similar slot in it to be able to put a wrench on the nut as it started spinning on me. The rear ones were a pain due to the gas tank and the supports surrounding the mounts. Ended up getting creative with several pieces of 3/4 plywood on those. I went with the energy Suspension kit. They are definitely harder than the stock ones so not sure if that's good or bad yet.