4r100 problems
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4r100 problems
So a while back my transfer case exploded on my powerstroke. When it did the front shaft came free and hit the trans and cracked the bellhousing. So this past weekend I found a good deal on everything I needed so I thought. I pulled everything I needed from a truck that was rolled 4 weeks ago with 296k with no history of what's been done to it. Needless to say I got it in my truck 2 days ago started it but I am getting a nasty grinding noise( sounds like plates rubbing together) with a hint of marbles rolling in it from around the torque converter area.
I checked the converter nuts and they are all tight. I know I filled and seated the converter before installing. I'm lost. Trying to find some advice before getting it diagnose.
I checked the converter nuts and they are all tight. I know I filled and seated the converter before installing. I'm lost. Trying to find some advice before getting it diagnose.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,766
Likes: 56
From: East Tawas, MI
Yes, the spray can rattle, or marbles in a can is the converter. If it's that noticeable, you are due for a full flush, filter and replacement of the TC. Anticipate a new trans cooler as well. They can't be flushed. While the filter is out, check the torque values on the Valve body as well. 6.0 cooler is the way to go.
Denny
Denny
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,308
Likes: 250
From: Hartford, WI
So a while back my transfer case exploded on my powerstroke. When it did the front shaft came free and hit the trans and cracked the bellhousing. So this past weekend I found a good deal on everything I needed so I thought. I pulled everything I needed from a truck that was rolled 4 weeks ago with 296k with no history of what's been done to it. Needless to say I got it in my truck 2 days ago started it but I am getting a nasty grinding noise( sounds like plates rubbing together) with a hint of marbles rolling in it from around the torque converter area.
I checked the converter nuts and they are all tight. I know I filled and seated the converter before installing. I'm lost. Trying to find some advice before getting it diagnose.
I checked the converter nuts and they are all tight. I know I filled and seated the converter before installing. I'm lost. Trying to find some advice before getting it diagnose.
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New User
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No unfortunately I got it from a private seller. The kid seemed really nice and not so mechanically inclined so I'm sure he didn't mean to sell a bad trans I hope.
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Joe Kucinski
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From: Hartford, WI
People are nice till money changes hands. Hopefully you didn't pay cash.
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So update. Got the other converter in and no noise! So that's a plus but now on the downside it is going into reverse, neutral, drive(1st), 2nd, and 1st. But it is not coming out of 1st when in drive. It will go into 2nd while going down the road but then tried going back into drive and it's still just 1st. Any ideas? Valve body? Shift solenoid?
Butt-Head
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,415
Likes: 2,910
From: Reed Point, MT
Try going 20-22 MPH in first and then let off when in OD range. If it shifts to third when you let off and accelerate VERY gradually, the intermediate sprag (one way clutch) is broken. May as well rebuild it at that point since everything on the bottom has to come off and you'll be halfway down the "stack" to get to it. If you get to third this way and then try to accelerate fairly aggressively below 25-28 MPH and it goes back to first, that's the problem.
Going into second by using the manual valve (lever in "2") will work for a while until the intermediate band burns up if the above scenario is the case. Don't shift under power too many times like that or you'll buy one of those too.
If it's actually going 1, 2, 1 (freewheeling in 3rd), then the direct clutch isn't holding....but that doesn't explain the return to first gear as you'd just stay in second gear with no engine braking. As far as the shift valves and solenoids are concerned, the 1-2 shift is occurring meaning that SS2 is functioning but if SS1 fails to change states (valve not moving) between 2-3, you'd just stay in second.
Going into second by using the manual valve (lever in "2") will work for a while until the intermediate band burns up if the above scenario is the case. Don't shift under power too many times like that or you'll buy one of those too.
If it's actually going 1, 2, 1 (freewheeling in 3rd), then the direct clutch isn't holding....but that doesn't explain the return to first gear as you'd just stay in second gear with no engine braking. As far as the shift valves and solenoids are concerned, the 1-2 shift is occurring meaning that SS2 is functioning but if SS1 fails to change states (valve not moving) between 2-3, you'd just stay in second.
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