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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 04:48 PM
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79 Ford 400

Looking to get some more stuff out of a 400. Pretty much all stock. I've read a good cam will help and I'm pretty interested in doing a cam. I don't really want to touch the heads or the pistons yet. Planning on headers and exhaust. I am wondering if a decent 4bbl around 600cfm would match up nicely too? I'm more of a diesel guy, although the same basic engine philosophy still exists. Any recommendations would be nice.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 05:25 PM
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Aftermarket intake and carb, along with a cam and straight up time it. All that would help way more than headers. IMO headers come after head work.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-not-400m.html

https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...e%20Build%20Up

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...am-timing.html
 
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 06:46 PM
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Awesome, thanks for the links. Obviously the cam is the biggest thing.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 07:06 PM
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I did all the things to my stock 400 that 77&79F250 said, except my cylinder heads are stock. I did it a step at a time. First I installed an intake manifold / carburetor, and distributor. That was a big improvement over stock. Later I installed a RV camshaft. That gave me even better throttle response and really good low-mid rpm torque. But it hurt my fuel mileage. Then I installed long tube headers. That improved mileage a bit and improved performance. And a side benefit to the headers is my firewall, transmission tunnel, and overall cab temperature is much cooler now. I think step one gave the biggest improvement.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ranger140892
I did all the things to my stock 400 that 77&79F250 said, except my cylinder heads are stock. I did it a step at a time. First I installed an intake manifold / carburetor, and distributor. That was a big improvement over stock. Later I installed a RV camshaft. That gave me even better throttle response and really good low-mid rpm torque. But it hurt my fuel mileage. Then I installed long tube headers. That improved mileage a bit and improved performance. And a side benefit to the headers is my firewall, transmission tunnel, and overall cab temperature is much cooler now. I think step one gave the biggest improvement.

Thank you, that's what I was planning on doing. I was thinking something along the lines of a little bigger cam than the RV, a little chop would be nice, but I was planning on the stock auto that's in it.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Fordfarmer79
Thank you, that's what I was planning on doing. I was thinking something along the lines of a little bigger cam than the RV, a little chop would be nice, but I was planning on the stock auto that's in it.
Just keep vacuum in mind. Bigger lobes and more duration mean less vacuum for your brakes. And with an automatic transmission, you'll need to match the torque converter to the camshaft. A good RV/Towing camshaft will work fine with stock converters and vacuum brake boosters. Read camshaft descriptions. Specifically the idle range. If your engine won't idle at around 650, you'll need a looser torque converter.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 09:16 PM
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Aa makes sense. Thanks for the input.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 10:44 PM
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You're welcome. The 400 is a pretty good engine. There aren't as many affordable aftermarket parts for 351M / 400 as there are for Windsor's and the 460, but there's enough. I've got the Edelbrock Performer 400 intake manifold and I'm pretty sure it's the best one made for 335's. And yes, a carburetor in the 600 cfm range will work with a stock to moderately modified 400.

You said you're more of a diesel guy. I just bought a 2001 Dodge 2500, 24 valve 5.9L. My first diesel. I like it.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2019 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ranger140892
You're welcome. The 400 is a pretty good engine. There aren't as many affordable aftermarket parts for 351M / 400 as there are for Windsor's and the 460, but there's enough. I've got the Edelbrock Performer 400 intake manifold and I'm pretty sure it's the best one made for 335's. And yes, a carburetor in the 600 cfm range will work with a stock to moderately modified 400.

You said you're more of a diesel guy. I just bought a 2001 Dodge 2500, 24 valve 5.9L. My first diesel. I like it.
I had one, really fun truck, was up around 500 hp and was pretty wild. It did everything I wanted it to.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2019 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by ranger140892
I just bought a 2001 Dodge 2500, 24 valve 5.9L. My first diesel. I like it.
I have a 99 2500 4wd with a 3 setting Quadzilla and BHAF (Big Honking Air Filter) Wix 10x11 and get/got along ok when towing. Then I borrowed my brother inlaws 09 Dodge 3500 crew cab duely with the 6.7...all stock that thing towed circles around my 5.9 and I forgot I had a trailer on behind me. lol Stay up on your trans service if its an auto.

As already mentioned for helping the 400, straight up timing.

 
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Old Feb 6, 2019 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
I have a 99 2500 4wd with a 3 setting Quadzilla and BHAF (Big Honking Air Filter) Wix 10x11 and get/got along ok when towing. Then I borrowed my brother inlaws 09 Dodge 3500 crew cab duely with the 6.7...all stock that thing towed circles around my 5.9 and I forgot I had a trailer on behind me. lol Stay up on your trans service if its an auto.

As already mentioned for helping the 400, straight up timing.
Thanks guys. I'm gonna keep this thing "mild" if that can be said about that engine. Specs say it's got 460 ft lbs at 1400 rpm. Its got some mild mods, and I'm guessing it makes 550 ft lbs. During normal acceleration, once it hits 1500 rpm, the damn thing is a rocket compared to my gas engine trucks. Gotta get used to that. It has a NV4500 5 speed, which was the reason I bought it. My plan is to keep this thing maintained, drive it a few years, then swap an old truck cab and flatbed onto the chassis. Hopefully a 4th or 5th gen Ford.
 
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