I currently have cheap-o Rock Auto brake cables that I replaced last year, along with Motorcraft pads and a Motorcraft e-brake pedal. This **** has never worked right no matter how much I have adjusted it. The cables are the only non-OEM part, and it looks like the passenger side is moving but has too much slack to even engage the brake pads.

Can anyone recommend a good source for Ford Motorcraft cables? Before I monkey around anymore, I'd like to start with quality components. It looks like Riff Raff does not carry these and frankly, Rock Auto is so incompetent I'd rather not even try there again.

I have an early 2000 model, the length changed at some point in that year.

Thanks

 

Have you ever removed the parts inside the wheel and either freed them up or replaced them? Each side has an actuator assembly in it that rusts and seizes up. I cleaned mine up or you can buy new ones. It was easy to see why the parking brake didn't work when I saw the condition they were in.

Parking brake actuator

 

I bought them from Amazon. This is the link for the first cable right off the pedal.


I had also bought the pedal mechanism because the spring in mine was broken and I bought the cable that went from the length of the truck from the first cable to the T fitting near the rear axle. I cannot find the receipt for the long cable at the moment....

 

Thought the same thing, Titty. Once i figured out that the parking brake was WAY outta whack, i kept turning the star until the shoes closed, then backed off a couple clicks. My autozone. Cable bern on for 7yrs

 

Word Turds!

The hub innards and actuators are all good, new pads and springs, nothing rusted out here in CO

I got in touch with Clay and have a new set of cables coming in the mail, he was able to use my VIN to get the correct lengths.

 

Nice work ****! This thread only reminded me thought that I need to service my POS brakes, I mean E-brake before camping season starts up in February. They suck, have always sucked and are not getting any better. They are better than they were, but still suck...

 

I went right there too.

 

Am I hearing I need to get off my rear end and make the how-to video for replacing the parking brake hardware with the hub on with this statement?

 

I have been in communication with several FTE'rs concerning this very task. I am not interested in breaking the seals on the axles when they are good and sealed.

I am OK with reconnecting springs, but the space available to properly attach the 2 spring clips and pins that hold them in very limited. I plan to get the truck in the garage soon and get a very good look at how changing the parking brake shoes can be done with the hub still installed.

 

I believe that Tugly did the job with hubs installed, I pulled the axles. I had a seal leak so I had no choice but I can tell you that I can't imagine doing the job with the hubs on, it was hard enough with them off. I wasn't completely opposed to that route anyway as it gave me a look at the bearings, which turned out to be in good shape. The O rings on the outer end of the axle are something like $14 each from Ford but I sourced them for $1 apiece locally. The Ford O rigs are metric and I used SAE but they were close enough to use. The oil is thick and your usual solvents won't do the job but Methyl Ethyl Ketone works good. I'm thinking that the seals were reasonably priced at Ford.

ETA: There is a write up on it in the tech folders. Parking brake shoe replacement

 

Mark, Tugly and Baatzy did the job with the hubs on. I have been in contact with Tugly about the work completed, but not Baatzy. Brian42 has been a great help in helping me find documentation, videos and how-tos on how to get the job done.

The seals on the axle of my truck are not leaking and I don't want to disturb that. My only concern is the 2 small clips and pins for each side that have to go in the center of each shoe once the shoe is mounted. I think everything else is manageable and not too bad with a set of long needle nose pliers and maybe another long set with a 45 degree bend at the end.

Time will tell.

 

Vice grips (needle nose and standard) for the springs and pry bars are your friends with the clips.

 

For some reason I recall those clips being tough even with the hubs off. And that top spring as well.