Well, it was time to do rear hub seals on my truck so I took some pictures and am doing another how to. Hope this helps people! This is for a 2002 F-350 10.5" rear. Please consult appropriate shop manuals to get exact torque specs for fasteners...
Follow for links to shop manuals: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...nual-link.html

Disclaimer: Ford-trucks and I are not responsible for anything which can result from mis installation or other issues that may arise from following this tutorial.

You will need:
-A 150 ft lb torque wrench
-gear lube
-2 jaw puller and step plate
-Ford Rear hub socket (available at parts houses. Autozone didn't have one)
-Rear hub seals (I'd do both. My drivers failed and passengers was starting to weep)
-O-rings for axle shaft
-Ford spec thread locker (i.e. Loc-tite)
-Bearing repack (grease)
-Jack and stands
-Rear park brake shoes (Kit ran me $97 from dealer)
-brake cleaner

Note: Although the park brake shoes aren't cheap, buy them as usually your hub seals will leak gear lube all over them rendering them useless.

First, buy all your parts. The hub seals are PN: 2C3Z-1177-AB while the o-rings are PN ESTZ-4A331-A. Hub seals run about $16 while the o rings are about $1.50.

Here are PN's and pictures showing fastener sizes:







Don't mind the brake fluid. I was flushing my system.



Start by SAFELY jacking the truck up and using jack stands. Note: Yes, I am using a jack. My jack stands couldn't be found. DO NOT DO THIS. NEVER WORK ON A VEHICLE SUPPORTED BY A JACK. I had to get the job done.

Remove the fancy lug nut covers using a large screw driver/ end of lug wrench. place upside down to place fasteners in.

Loosen the lugs and remove wheel assembly.


Place drain pan below axle shaft.
Loosen and remove axle shaft retaining bolts and pull out axle shaft. It is in there tight but will come out. It will leak a little gear lube so be watchful.


Remove rear brake caliper and bracket. Careful, its kind of heavy. Set aside but do NOT hang by brake hose

Remove brake disc rotor


Using special socket, loosen the hub nut and remove. If it falls apart replace the nut. Also watch that the inner bearing doesn't fall onto the ground. Sorry I don't have a better picture of the socket. Socket is circled in red, spindle nut is in blue



Remove hub using puller and step plate. I didn't need either. My hub came off with a little prying from behind.


Remove retainers for brake shoes as well as springs. Using brake cleaner, clean really well where any lube is. Don't want to ruin new brake shoes. Take note that the long spring goes in top of the fat one so as to not rub the hub. When going to replace the rear shoes, I covered the spindle so as to not scratch it. The springs tend to cause the shoe brackets to make contact with the spindle.






Repack bearings with appropriate grease and remove old hub seal.
Drive in new hub seal. Make sure it bottoms out properly. NOTE: Make sure you replace the inner bearing before you drive the seal in. I almost didn't. These seals are NOT removable once driven into place.


Coat spindle with a bit of axle lube and fill cavity with a little lubricant. Place hub onto spindle taking care not to nick the new seal on the threads of the spindle. Place the outer bearing back in place making sure it is seated fully, then put on the spindle nut and tighten down to 60 ft-lbs, then back off nut 7 clicks for used bearings. (CHECK YOU TORQUE SPECS. These are for an 02 and 10.5" rear end...Yours MAY be different!)


Replace axle shaft and fasteners using Ford spec thread locker, as well as replace o ring on axle shaft end



Replace rotor and caliper bracket using proper torque specs


Clean and grease slide pins with slide pin lubricant, replace caliper using proper torque specs, replace wheel assembly, tighten lugs to torque, THEN tighten axle shaft retaining bolts.





Congratulations. You have replaced you rear hub seal(s). Other side is the same, but with opposite threads.

 

Hey, another write up with pics. That's the best kind. Good job. Reps sent.

 

That is a great write up, Because I'm getting ready o do the parking brake thing as well. Thanks alot. REP POINTS SENT

 

Good job. Thanks for sharing. Reps sent also.

 

Thanks everyone. I just like playing around with the new digi cam and hoped someone could get some use out of my pictures haha. Oh, one note I forgot. The hub nut has a tang on it almost like a key way. Make sure you line that back up with the notch on spindle or the nut wont' go on... Thanks again to everyone!!

 

Great write-up and pics Camodown. Thanks. Rep Sent.

 

Maybe Guzzle will add this to his site...

 

Good point, and good Idea.

 

I am in the midst of doing my 99 F350 Superduty right now. Looked on the web site to see if there was some info on changing the rear seals and wow, your photos look just like my truck, oily brake pads and all. Thanks for taking the time to post this. I should have done the same when I rebuilt my front end. Didn't know about this site then. Thanks again.

 

The pics really make it alot easier, nice job, reps sent.

 

This is great info. Only my truck is a dually and 2005 model. I am guessing it will be about the same just bigger and longer parts to work with. My big question is about pulling the axle out. I was told by one guy I woud have to remove the diff cover and un bolt the axle someway from the rear end gears ? Then slide it out. Any ideas on this ? Plus mine has disc rear brakes. THANKS

 

Great info as always guys. Thanks. Thought I would look and see what I did wrong cause both new rear seals are leaking.There was no leak before I did them. $72.- for 2 seals from Lordco. Still don't know what I did wrong other than doing it on a Sunday and having to buy them from Lordco. Guess I"ll go to Ford and get 2 more seals and try it again.

 

Great write up. I am saving this one because my drivers side just started leaking. Reps sent.

 

That is one greasy looking parking brake!!! Nice writeup and reps to you.

 

saving for future use, thanks and great writeup!!