Charge cable routing

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Dec 10, 2018 | 12:58 PM

Dogdare

Thread Starter

Cross-Country

Joined: Jun 2011

Posts: 97

Likes: 1

From: Southern New Mexico

Charge cable routing

Hi, I have an issue with some of the battery cable clamps in my Excursion, where they will not adequately tighten anymore. Got me thinking about just going ahead and replacing all my battery cables (positive and ground), and possibley the charge cable coming off the alternator.

Not that I would be forced to follow the OEM routing of the charge cable, but with all the wire loom on the charge cable it makes it very difficult to determine the OEM routing of the charge cable as a possibility. I would likely just cut the existing cable and leave it in place, but how is the cable routed?

thanks,
Herb

Dec 10, 2018 | 01:38 PM

R&T Babich

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Feb 2011

Posts: 1,812

Likes: 88

From: Thousand Oaks, CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dogdare

Ours had a couple of positive post connections which just means they all corrode.
I replaced the cable ends with marine style connections and moved all the positive post connections into the gray electrical box on the fender just behind the neg battery post in the pic.
Added an aux power cable thru the marine breaker just behind the gray box to power a new fuel pump relay, GPS, gauges, etc.
Found all the parts on ebay.

Dec 12, 2018 | 08:45 AM

seijirou

Cargo Master

Joined: Aug 2012

Posts: 2,872

Likes: 952

From: Kaufman TX

This doesn't give a sense of length but the run is pretty direct and goes like this.

Dec 12, 2018 | 09:04 AM

Dogdare

Thread Starter

Cross-Country

Joined: Jun 2011

Posts: 97

Likes: 1

From: Southern New Mexico

Thanks Donald, that's a nice looking engine bay. I do have a 7.3L however, so there are a number of differences right off the bat.

Herb

Dec 12, 2018 | 09:06 AM

seijirou

Cargo Master

Joined: Aug 2012

Posts: 2,872

Likes: 952

From: Kaufman TX

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dogdare

Thanks Donald, that's a nice looking engine bay. I do have a 7.3L however, so there are a number of differences right off the bat.

Herb

HAHAHA

Oops!

Oct 28, 2021 | 09:50 AM

Dan V

Lead Driver

Joined: Jun 2013

Posts: 5,648

Likes: 893

From: north of Minneapolis, MN

Cable? Still cables? Why not a Bluetooth connection to each gauge?

I won't mind doing some "programming" on mine, but I'm not pulling them out to access the cable port.

Oct 28, 2021 | 11:48 PM

Nicmike

Veteran/Sheepdog

Joined: Feb 2012

Posts: 6,047

Likes: 110

From: Western AR

I have replacedy BAT+ cable due to corrosion in the past. That corrosion was eating up alternators about every three months. Recently bought a new engine harness that eliminated the need for the bypass.

So, you need to understand that the BAT+ runs from the alt, into the big harness, runs under the CAC pipes, around the GPCM, over to the IAH relay, under the AC compressor, then over to the starter relay on the fender (00-01 models). Just before the BAT+ cable gets to the fender, there are fusible links.

You need to consider:
- take off/splice under spider for EACH plug of GPCM. These are 8 gauge legs.
- take off for AIH relay. Another 8 gauge splice/leg- provision for over-current protection to replace those fusible links.

I met all those provisions and ran a new wire with the above mentioned splices incorporated along with 300A fuse protection for psgr side battery. I then ran a second BAT+ off the post on the alternator over to the driver side battery with a 150A fuse protection. Ran an additional ground from DS battery to the alternator bolt/housing.