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In looking at how much it costs to do a complete bulletproof, is there anything that can be done short of that to help with reliability? I was quoted 6,000 to do complete job, what would be 1 or 2 items I could do to get me started that will help? I have a 2007 with 57,000 miles on it.
I agree on the coolant. Flushes AND switching to an EC-1 rated ELC coolant!
Fuel pressure sensor and gauge would be a wise investment.
If you are taking long trips w/ the trailer, then upgrading the HPOP discharge fitting as well as the dummy plugs and standpipes would not be a bad thing to do. Eventually these things will start to cause problems (even though they should be OK at 57k miles).
Having FICMrepair.com upgrade the FICM and install an Atlas 40 program would probably add some driving enjoyment.
How long have you owned the truck and/or do you know its history? First thing I'd recommend is to get set up with something you can monitor what is going on under the hood: a simple Bluetooth OBDII adapter and running Torque Pro app (on a droid device) would be an inexpensive start. Other things you can do proactively is change out the factory EGR cooler with the one from BPD. I had my oil cooler changed, but that was partially based on the "old" Ford method to determine the coolers health. However I don't feel all that bad as the new cooler has an extra cooling row and a stainless steel HPOP pick up screen. Once you can monitor things you'll want to look at the difference between your Oil Temp and Coolant Temp, fully warmed up and driving steady state, unloaded, on the highway at 65 or so (flat ground). 15 degrees is max your oil should be higher than coolant, but most of us would rather see less than 10, and that is with the coolant in the 190 range. Make sure you have the proper size batteries and that they are healthy, You will want to watch your FICM voltages: Main should stay right around 48, Logic and Vehicle 12+ volts. Many here feel the stock 110 Amp Alternator is not adequate and will go bigger -- my truck was ordered with the Factory "high output" 140A alternator and to that I added a smaller "overdrive" pulley, plus I did some cabling upgrades. Some folks are in the: if it ain't broke, don't fix it camp. I'm in the: fix some of the known weaknesses and worry less on the road. So for an '07 I would replace the known-to-fail (without warning) Snap To Connect (STC) fitting off the HPOP (it will come with an upgraded Stainless screen for the Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR), while you are at it, replace the Dummy Plugs and Stand Pipes with the Ford updated units, I also think you should do the fuel pressure spring update from Ford, known as the "blue spring" (I did that and don't monitor Fuel Pressure now), Last I'd do the transmission pan update to the '08+ style with the '08+ full flow filter. Might want to clean your EGR valve if it hasn't been done. Remember: only OEM filters!
Unless you have thrown a higher power program in or have had your EGR cooler leak, the Headgaskets on an '07 aren't so likely to fail at stock power levels -- so I myself have skipped putting in Head Studs, until something tells me my HGs are leaking. I'd hold off on the FICM until you have data that tells you it is unhealthy - and I watch those numbers like a hawk! I'm only so handy under the hood, so a few things I did myself (blue spring, coolant filter, trans pan & filter, cabling and overdrive pulley), the rest I had a shop do and it was about a grand in parts and 2 grand in labor to have them do the work. Full list of what I've done is in my sig line.
Number One (again) is start monitoring the health of things, current and future!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.