I pressure-checked the cooling system last week, and replacement gaskets are needed. This is disappointing because the existing gaskets were installed with studs in 2007 while the truck was under warranty.

Along with new gaskets, I'll replace my heads with a set of UCF o-ringed heads, add new seals to the injectors and clean the spool valves. This will be a DIY project with the truck half-in and half-out of my garage, so I'll have to put off the project until spring when the temps are consistently back in the 50's.

If you have suggestions and advice because you've already done this, I appreciate them in advance.

David

 

David,

By spring I may have my motor back together so there should be details by them...... well maybe by then.

Remember Pete's suggestion to pull the drivers motor mount to rotate the motor for better access on the pass head. From my perspective, plan for parts at the last minute that you may not have expected.

When the dealer did the work do you know anything about the treatment on the heads? Or if they replaced the heads? Some dealers just clean and flip, some machine the heads. Not much gets done about the deck other than cleaning.

 

Hey Jack,
Thanks for the interest. I suspect the dealership warranty work was a hasty job because:
a. When I went to pick up the truck after their repairs/work, there were 15+ dents in the driver side fender where the tech had leaned against the fender while torquing the head studs. The dealership did pay for my visit to a Dent Doctor for repairs.

and

b. Years later I spoke with a fella who used to work for that dealership as a tech. He stated the general attitude in that shop was "I don't care...get this job done and out the door..." and so on.

c. I'm 65 years old, and yes I run SCT tunes, but this engine has never been abused. I tow a 5,000 load several times a year. I never expected to be headed toward a 3rd pair of gaskets in 67,000 miles.

David

 

Deck must be flat, heads need to be flat by machining, and surfaced to 30 Ra for factory gaskets. Fel-Pro MLS are a bit more forgiving.
Studs won't fix components that are not flat.
Any tuning involved that increased cylinder pressure?
It's always possible with the 6.0 to squeeze out a gasket. Poor design.

 

I'm not sure absolute flat is the ideal. It appears the heads cup over the fire rings during clampdown so absolute flat gets you some reaction movement upwards in the center of the head longitudinally since there's no clamping done there. Under 30 Ra for Ford, under 60 Ra for Felpro, but Ra is a poor measurement of surface finish and not something the normal guy can do at home. Rz is a much better mode, 180 Rz for Ford and 360 Rz for FelPro. And apparently, not some "auto" machine shops have the equipment to do either.

 

Is it possible that even though you have an EGR delete that you could have an issue there (some deletes, like freeze plugs, aren't fail-proof)?

Could you describe the coolant pressure check that you did?

 

This is how I changed my head gaskets on my 6.0. Don't forget to loosen the hydraulic pump before you lay the motor over.

 

Mark,
The EGR delete is a Sinister Diesel (oops) that has been in place for 5 years. I recently had the intake manifold off and had the EGR delete in pieces. I pressure washed the inside and outside of the intake, reinstalled it and the delete assembly just 10 days ago, along with a new blue hose. All those items appear to be in good order.

Pressure test; I Tee'd into the degas tank at the small hose closest to the cap. I ran a 3/8" i.d. hose from the degas line into the cab, and attached a pressure gauge to the 3/8 hose.

I went driving with a cold engine, just me and the truck, no load, nothing in the bed. As the engine built some heat the pressure ramped up to 7-8 psi. The coolant temp increased, so did my speeds and I began to climb some hills. The pressure rose to 15 psi and eventually reached 20. I backed off the pedal to keep the pressure from going higher. On flat roads the pressure decreased and remained at 17 psi, so I went home.

While in my driveway with engine off, coolant temp still at 190 degrees, I bled the pressure down to 0 psi with the degas cap. Coolant still hot and at 0 psi in the driveway, I went out for another drive. As soon as I climbed the first grade, I could watch the pressure rise. It rose as quickly as my right foot went down, and at no more than 1/2 pedal. The pressure quickly reached 20-21. 13 to 21 psi might have taken 10 seconds. I began easing off the pedal. Once on level ground the pressure remained at 16-17 psi, and again increased each time I ascended a grade.

Also, there are times I don't drive the truck for a week. After a week of sitting, I can crack the degas cap and there's pressure being released.

David

 

David - thank you for that detailed description. It is a very good guide for others to follow when suspecting head gasket sealing issues.

Hate to hear that you have to go back and do the head gasket work again, but look forward to reading your updates.

One thing I wish I had done was to install the cooling return lines from the back of the heads. Can't say for sure that it would help a ton, but I think it is an improvement.

 

The additional cooling lines sounds interesting. Where would I read about others who've done it and their results? Which kit/s would you choose?

David

 

Will have to think a little on who did it, and if there are threads on it. Basically you would need the ports drilled and tapped into the back of the heads. Hopefully someone else has a better memory while I am looking/remembering!

 

Here are the hoses and some vendor information. Still trying to recall who did it.

https://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-270...eturn-kit.aspx

 

 

Thanks!!! I was just thinking of him!

Here is one post of his:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-video-2.html

 

I do have the "kit". Ats coolant recirculation kit from strictly diesel. I had my heads resurfaced and they do have a noticeable and you can feel the roughness that Toomanytoys spoke about. Valve job was done aswell. The head work was done by a guy who invented or perhaps "helped" with an amc drag racing engine on a gremlin. Peyton's performance in Ky.

I personally drilled and taped the holes for the coolant recirculation kit using Driven Diesels (Strictly Diesel's) detailed instructions. Very easy but still sketchy due to the void of any warrantied head work or even getting a core. For less than 700 bucks was worth a try imo.

I do run ford gold or Zerox g03 in my truck at the moment but plan a switch to red in the future. I THINK my temps run just a little higher than others when towing long inclines. Temps have hit 220 on the coolant when climbing long inclines towing 8,000 lbs. Fan kicks on around 218ish and keeps things in check. Have not puked coolant since my headgasket job. No coolant loss at all but I do return the truck to stock about 2 days before a tow that's more than an hr trip at 70 mph. The 2 days is for the trans relearn process. It may not be needed but it makes me feel better. I run sct street tune on a daily basis for 2 reasons. Fuel mileage is better as well as the great bonus that these trucks have crazy git-up when tuned with anything other than stock.

My deltas have never been more than 10* since I did the job and I did the job myself with the cab on. Not to jinx anything but next summer I plan to test her pretty good. So far so good.

I can't honestly say the coolant reroute works or not. For less than 150 bucks for the kit is worth a try imo but still I can't say yes it works. My thought process is like "if it's to good to be true then it probably is". I tried to ask Anthony Youngblood about it and all I got was "yeah I had one on my gray truck" or what ever color it was. Couldn't get a confirmation that yes it works. So only 3 people (including myself) I've read about that have actually used the kit. Can we get a confirmation? No. Although it makes complete and simple sense. If heads get hot, cool them down. Coolant flow improves that so that's my thinking.

I'm ready to tow 30 thousand pounds just to say yes this crap works.

My bad fan clutch along with running a performance canned sct tune while towing created my gasket "leak". Only puked when boost was above 20 lbs and that's after I returned my truck to stock when the issue was found thanks to the help of these great members of FTE. That's about the only thing I'm sure of.

I really wish I could say it the reroute worked.


Enough sour spirits for me tonight.