Hub drive flanges

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Nov 23, 2018 | 08:14 PM

dsfasching

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From: Minnesota

Hub drive flanges

Does anyone have a schematic of how the full time 4x4 hub flanges get put into the hub? I have my 2000 Ford explorer that's built for rocks and trails (off-road use only) and I'm building a Ford d44 for it and ordered a set of the 70s hub flanges but never delt with them so I don't know in what order to put the spring, flange and snap ring in, I could probably figure it out but was wondering if there's a drawing of the order that these assemble

Nov 23, 2018 | 10:04 PM

1TonBasecamp

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From: San Jose, CA

Well don't hold me to it, since I've never installed one unfortunately. But generally speaking you would have the inner spring seat (thin metal ring formed with a lip), the spring, then the flange, then the snap ring(s).
You would normally have the same two snap rings as used with the hubs I do believe. The large outer one that fits into the outer edge of the splined hub, and the smaller one that fits the end of the axle shaft.

As I said though, those are all just wild-assed guesses on my part. Just wanted to give what I thought I knew and at the same time subscribe to this thread so that someone who actually knows can confirm or deny.

Where did you get the flange kits by the way?

Thanks

Paul

Nov 23, 2018 | 10:13 PM

dsfasching

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From: Minnesota

Got them on eBay for 120$ shipped. They're coming with everything to install them so the springs, retaining clips and the caps for the hubs. I figure this is just as good of a route to take for a third of the cost vs the expensive yukon or solid brand drive flanges.

Nov 23, 2018 | 10:15 PM

1TonBasecamp

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From: San Jose, CA

Yeah, it's a great way to go for strength. Should work out well for a wheeler that's going to see some action.
Or even on the street, since free-running hubs/lockouts/locking hubs were an option on most of our trucks in the first place!

Paul

Nov 23, 2018 | 10:21 PM

dsfasching

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From: Minnesota

Yea I'm looking forward to it especially since this is an off-road only build and I didn't want to go with the normal locking hubs because they stick out of the wheel itself and didn't want them getting hit on rocks and with these solid drive flanges with just the hub cap it reduces about an inch so they'll be more inward with my beadlocks, for now since this is an explorer that'll be getting full width axles I'm going with stock 80s f150 wheels with diy beadlocks to keep my wheelbase not so wide, otherwise if I was doing an aftermarket 10" wide wheel this wouldn't be much of an issue with the hubs sticking out

Nov 23, 2018 | 10:40 PM

1TonBasecamp

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Good thinking.
And a nice bonus that they're stronger too!

Paul

Nov 23, 2018 | 10:42 PM

dsfasching

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From: Minnesota

Thanks, exactly and like I said these stock 70s flanges were built to last so why spend 300$ on Yukon ones when I can just use good old Ford flanges for cheaper and just as strong.