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That's not going to solve this particular problem.
Oh, were those 3/8" drive sockets you've been looking at? Yeah those won't fit over the threaded portion of the IPR. You need a 1/2" drive (or better yet 3/4" drive) socket.
Oh, were those 3/8" drive sockets you've been looking at? Yeah those won't fit over the threaded portion of the IPR. You need a 1/2" drive (or better yet 3/4" drive) socket.
No such thing as an 1 1/8" 3/8" drive socket. At least, not commonly. All the ones I was looking at are 1/2" drive. I also could not find a 3/4" drive socket that was as small as 1 1/8". IIRC the smallest 3/4" drive socket I found was 1 5/16".
My wonderful girlfriend took the socket down to the local Napa and they drilled out the center of the socket so it now clears the IPR.
I'll try to describe it: The bottom (the part that attaches to the ratchet) 1/4 of the socket is solid steel except for two holes. There is a square hole machined out of the solid part for the ratchet head, but that doesn't go all the way into the solid part. The rest of the solid part has a round hole drilled in it. That hole was too small to clear the IPR threads. Now that the socket hole has been enlarged, it fits over the IPR perfectly. The square part of the socket remains untouched.
At any rate, now I have a 1/2" drive IPR socket that cost me $21 to buy and modify.
No dice on the IPR change. I can get the socket on the IPR if I move the fuel line of the way by bending it a little, but I can't get the ratchet on the end of the socket. Not enough room. I can't fit the socket and ratchet in there as one because there's not enough room for that either.
None of the IPR specific tools get good reviews or work on the 7.3.
I will have to weld either a nut or a piece of flat stock on the back of the socket.
This has been an incredibly frustrating repair so far. Nothing has gone right at all.
That looks close to identical to the 1/2" ratchet that I have. I watched the video where he said "All you need to do is put an 1 1/8" socket on the IPR and take it out. I don't understand how it's that easy. I just spent 45 minutes busting my knuckles on it.
Try not bottoming the socket out on the IPR, or fully seating the ratchet into the socket. Put the socket on the IPR, pull it back a little, but where it still grabs, then place the tip of the ratchet in the socket. Don't fully seat the ratchet.
As long as the square part of the ratchet fits in the socket, you can loosen the IPR.
I got the IPR changed yesterday. My large 1/2" ratchet simply would not fit. I forgot that I had bought this ratchet a few years ago and I was finally able to get it changed:
With the ICP unplugged, the PCM substituted a value of about 2,333 PSI. Still no start. I have not put an actual gauge on the HPOP rail yet although I'm getting closer to spending $80 on the tool to do it.
I replaced the ICP sensor today. The most immediate change is that now I'm getting plenty of oil to the injectors. Too much maybe?
Truck still won't start. Still won't buzz test.
Codes: P0676, P0683, (both glow plug codes) P1670. I get a P1668 when I try the buzz test.
I figured out how to get the ICP to display in PSI instead of kpa. Why is the ICP so high? I know my HPOP isn't putting out 3700 psi while cranking at 125 rpms.
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